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                   Canine Aggression

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Different Types of Aggression
Why is my dog aggressive towards other dogs?
Why is my dog aggressive towards people?
Types of aggression
Heed the Warnings

Different Types of Aggression 

Stan Rawlinson
www.Doglistener.co.uk

Aggression is one of the main reason dogs are euthanised or rehomed. At least 30% of all dogs in rescue centres are there because of the incidence of aggression in one form or another. It is actually unusual to have aaggressionstan1 dog that is aggressing to have just one type, Most dogs have more than one of the following types of behaviour.

It would be prudent before embarking on any program of aggressive behaviour modification, to rule out any medical reasons for that behaviour, especially if there is a sudden change in the dog’s temperament. Their are some fifty-odd different medical reasons why a dog may be showing aggressive tendencies, these range from Pain to Thyroid Dysfunction, Epilepsy Hypoglycaemia and Diabetes. This is only a part of the different types of aggression, because of the constraints of space it can only be a fleeting reference. I have covered fully “Food Guarding “and “Object and Possession Aggression”in previous articles in Dogs Monthly (one of the numerous magazines I write articles for)

 Aggression is one of the main reason that dogs are euthanised or rehomed, at least 30% of all dogs in rescue centres are there because of the incidence of aggression in one form or another. It is actually unusual to have a dog that is aggressing to have just one type. Most dogs have more than one of the following types of behaviour.

1.  Fear / Nervous Aggression (Interdog)
Quite often, this behaviour has its roots directly to the pup’s mother. Breeders that breed from fearful and timid bitches will often make excuses as to why you cannot see the dam. If you do view a litter of puppies and the mother is fearful then do not even consider buying a puppy. It is almost certain that the pups will inherit some of the mother’s traits, through both genetics and socialisation, genetically the pups may inherit her timidity and through the time they are with her will observe her fear and follow suit.

Scientific research has shown that even pups that are born to a solid and stable mother are then put with a bitch that is fearful, they will pick up some of the unstable habits from the fearful dog, especially in weeks three through to seven. Other reasons for this fear type of problem is when a puppy or adult dog is attacked by another dog, especially whilst on the lead, especially if the dog has no means of escape or is restricted from showing submissive body language to the attacker. If we then comfort the injured or frightened dog we only confirm that the fear is real and that wil only make matters worse.

Lack of early socialisation can also have an affect on this type of behaviour, If the young pup, especially between the age of seven and sixteen weeks, is not carefully socialised with both adult and pups alike, then they do not learn to “meet and greet” . The complex body language dogs learn at this age is crucial to their later behaviour when approaching unknown dogs. If they are unable to either perform or understand the greeting rituals, then they are immediately viewed with suspicion by the approaching dog, and conflict may arise

How can you tell if it is fear?
With nervous and fear aggressive dogs, you will find that they will react similarly to any dog, regardless of whether it is male or female.  The behaviour is often worse if the dog is on the lead or is cornered, especially if close to the owner, who backs up the behaviour, (though unwittingly) by becoming nervous and agitated as another dog approaches.

This manifests itself in a tightening up on the lead and shoulders because of the expectation of conflict. Nervous owners also kick out a cloud of adrenaline that the dog instantly detects a causes it to look for what is causing the concern. It sees the dog approaching and reacts accordingly.  This type of dog is also normally a barker, it will lunge and bark at the approaching dog but generally will not snap, unless all its options have run out ie flight or freeze and after all its threat posturing the other dog has still got too close.

This problem can often be diagnosed if someone who is confident around dogs (that the dog does not know well) takes it out on the lead. It will not get the same fearful vibes from the owner, therefore the reaction to another dogs approaching will be less intense.  It is a good way of finding out if your dog suffers fear aggression as the behaviour will either not be exhibited or will be less pronounced. The owner can then use a desensitisation program for both the dog and themselves.

2.  Fear / Nervous Aggression (Inter-human)
aggressionstan1 Once again, this can be caused through lack of early socialisation, bad breeding and sometimes lack of handling at an early age, starting as young as two weeks old. Pups that are not handled gently and often by the breeder, do not get the strong olfactory and tactile bond with humans. This is often the case with puppy farmed dogs and dogs born to large breeders. This handling at such an early age causes a mild stress response in the tiny pup, which benefits its ability to cope with many situations including people and dogs in later life

Nervous and fear aggressing is always defensive in nature, sometimes it is related to the sex of the person. If the breeder was female, and very few males visited or handled the puppies then the timidity and fear may be worse with men. This particular problem like interdog hostility, will manifest itself mainly with individuals rather than crowds. You will find that the puppy/dog will bark a lot but will be under a table or behind a settee. The tail will be down and although it may seem overtly aggressive, the dogs balance and weight will be on the back foot not over the front feet. This demonstrates that the dog wants you to go away and is not always initially trying to bite or attack you. A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will never be the life and soul of the park parties.

3. Frustration Aggression
Research has shown that dogs who are not allowed to interact “normally” with people and dogs who were prone to displays of bad temper and behaviour that was overtly aggressive are dogs that are generally physically restrained or restricted from normal interactions (interactions with people, other dogs, and the outside world). The more the dog develops an intense desire to gain access to all of those things he desires.

This desire can escalate into escape and roaming behaviour, agitation, biting and unprovoked attacks. It is often observed in dogs that are left tied up in flats, left in gardens, or near a window where they can see the things they want to interact with, but cannot get to them display unprovoked aggression. To some extent the aggression shown to the postman is sometimes based on frustration. I have seen dogs attack their owner or a second dog in the home because it cannot get to the delivery man.

4.  Sexual aggression.
This type of aggression is usually limited to male dogs.  They will mount both people and other dogs. Mounting activity directed towards humans may reflect a lack of opportunity for the dog to play with other dogs, or an over-attachment to people in early life, Mounting on other dogs especially if they initially try to put their heads over the other dogs necks can be related to rank and control complex behaviour. Castration and behaviour modification can help with this problem. Allowing the dog to mate may often be recommended by the amateur dog expert, this normally makes the problem far worse.

5 Territorial Aggression
This may be towards other dogs, people or both. By definition, territorial aggression should be directed towardaggressionstan3 members of the same species ie other dogs. Domestic dogs, however, seem to regard humans as conspecific and consequently may direct territorial aggression toward us When dogs display aggression to strangers only on the home property garden, house, or yard, yet do not respond aggressively to strangers on neutral territory, then territorial aggression is the likely diagnosis. There are two primary motivations for territorial behaviour, control complex behaviour ie dominance or fear/anxiety. It may be worse in a small space such as a car than in an open area . Some dogs like this can be fine in the home, but not so good in the garden or yard.

Some breeds appear to frustrate much quicker than others, these are generally the working dogs such as Collies, Springer’s Cockers and some Retrievers The only answer to this problem is to work on the dominant/territorial problem in a way in which a dog understands its position through a behaviour modification programme using position reinforcement techniques. Remember not to praise for the cessation of bad behaviour rather praise for that bad behaviour not happening in the first place. In other words, say the dog jumps up on someone and you say “OFF” if the dogs get off then do not praise as you will be praising for the inappropriate behaviour, which was the jumping.

6. Control Complex / Dominant Aggression
aggressionstan4 The initial approach to other dogs is often cautionary and contains many status signals, like tail carriage held high and quickly moving from side to side, standing on tip toe etc. If the other dog submits, then all is usually fine, if not the fighting can be extremely noisy and in some cases quite severe. In both the last two examples, dominant and territorial aggression, I usually find the dog will pull quite badly on the lead. These dogs can also display aggressive tendency towards members of the family this could lead to an attack if not controlled in their early stages.  By working on a programme that will give the dog a purpose and a position in life almost a job and teaching the dog to walk on a loose leash can sometimes overcome the problem. The type of program I would use is the NILIF program which stands for “Nothing in Life is Free” See my website under dominance

7. Chase or Predatory aggression
This can be directed at many things including dogs, cats, or anything that stimulates a chase response. Squirrelsaggressionstan5 are a favourite, as their quick jerky movements seem to stimulate even the most placid of dogs.  I see a lot of predatory chase aggression in for instance Border Collies, in particular stimulants like bikes, skateboards joggers and cars.

One of the key factors that distinguish predatory aggression from other forms of aggression is that movement often is the triggers . In the wild, this movement is in the form of running and escape attempts of a small animals. Predatory behaviour can be seen in dogs of any sex and age. Dogs that show intense interest and become aroused or anxious by the movement or noise of children or other pets should be closely monitored at all times. Prognosis is not good for this type of aggression. Reward based obedience training can help however this is only any use if the owner/trainer is able to constantly monitor the dog at all times.

It is easier to control the chase stimulus when it is directed at cars, joggers, or bikes. Two types of common treatment’s include counter-conditioning used to change the dogs’ perception of the falsely identified prey. Many also believe punishment works ie noise aversion when the behaviour is first stimulated. Throwing water from a car window or sounding a rape alarm or air horn at the exact time the dog takes off, throwing down a plastic bottle of stones from a passing bike or car can sometimes alter this behaviour.

However. To be effective, punishment must be seen as aversive and the timing of the punishment must be exact so that the dog associates the punishment with the behaviour. Electric shock collars have also been suggested but are not part of treatment programs I would ever recommend.

As mentioned aggression often has its origins in bad breeding, lack of socialisation, high prey drive, and poor basic training. However, as stated before it can be related to medical conditions and before embarking on a course of behavioural therapy have your dog checked over to see if there are any underlying medical conditions.

Learned aggression can normally be cured however, hereditary aggression cannot, it can only be controlled and hopefully contained. Castration sometimes helps, and should be considered in an overall aggression reduction program.

stan2 This article was written by Stan Rawlinson, a full time Dog Behavioural Consultant and Obedience Traimer.
You can visit his website at www.Doglistener.co.uk for more articles and training information. You may freely distribute this article or save to any electronic media as long as it is left intact, including this copyright box.
Please let me know out of courtesy where and when you publish. E.mail will suffice.


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canine concept

Why is my dog aggressive to other dogs?
Dogs can become aggressive towards other dogs for a number of reasons. They may have had bad experiences and are fearful of other dogs or they may be inexperienced in body language and may be sending out the wrong signals to other dogs. Oftentimes male dogs have become sexually mature and are then more likely to get into conflict with other sexually mature males. Whatever the reason may be there are a number of things you can do to minimise the likelihood of conflict between dogs:

You may find it helps to allow your dog off the lead when being introduced to another dog. Being on a lead makes your dog feel that it cannot escape. Dogs in this situation are more likely to be aggressive.
If you have a puppy, don't allow it to play with older dogs because it may learn from them to play too roughly.
Don't play too roughly with your own dog- or allow others to do so- and always stop the minute any games with you or with other dogs start to get out of hand.

Ensure your dog is fully socialised with other dogs from an early age. This is very important because socialisation helps ensure your dog will learn the relevant body language to manage its interactions with other dogs.

Ensure any bad experiences with other dogs are completely outnumbered by good experiences.
When your dog is playing with dogs with which they are unfamiliar do not allow them to bite hard, mount, or put their paw on the other dog's back. These are all dominant actions that may not tolerated by an unfamiliar dog.

Try to limit the amount of time your dog plays with other dogs and always encourage your puppy or dog to play with you rather than another dog.

Watch the body language of unfamiliar dogs; if they are portraying aggressive body language, always call your dog away from them.

Why is my dog aggressive towards people ?

This article introduces the preventative and training measures that can be taken to stop your dog or puppy developing aggressive tendencies towards humans. Owners of dogs that have already developed dangerous behaviour towards humans should seek immediate professional help. With the help of an experienced pet behaviourist, most of these problems can be overcome with patience and care. If you are unable to find a behaviourist in your area, the APBC (Association of Pet Behaviour Councillors) run a directory of behaviourists within Great Britain.

Rarely is a dog aggressive to humans for no reason. In the vast majority of cases, dog aggression is simply a response to a stressful situation. The main reasons for aggressive behaviour are as follows:

Fear Aggression:
Lack of socialisation can result in dogs being fearful of strangers or types of people (old, young, men, women, etc.) which they have not encountered before. This can be stressful for them and if placed in a situation from which they cannot escape, they may resort to violence. If dogs discover through experience that aggression resolves a stressful situation it further reinforces the success of this strategy. Suggestions to deter this type of aggression include:

Taking time to socialise your dog with as many different types of people as possible.

When introducing your dog to new people, allow them off the lead so that they can investigate in their own time. Treat and praise your dog during these experiences.

Avoid situations where your dog can feel cornered with no way out.

Supervise introductions and play sessions with young children. Ensure children do not tease or torment your dog.

Territorial Aggression:
As the descendants of wolves that they are, dogs often retain a significant amount of instinct to defend a territory they consider their own. Territorial aggression often manifests itself as aggression towards humans since we are the most likely beings to enter what a dog thinks of as its own territory. They will only show aggressive tendencies if they perceive the 'trespasser' as a threat; when this happens their primary objective is to chase away the threat.

As with fear aggression, the main preventive measure for this sort of aggression is to fully socialise your dog and condition it to see visitors to their territory as a positive and pleasurable experience. There are many useful techniques you can use to prevent this type of aggression. These can be found in our article" why does my dog hate the postman?.

Dominance aggression:
In the wild, wolves operate in a strict hierarchical order where all members of the pack have a rank and status. A higher rank brings improved benefits in terms of food and eating priority, sleeping locations and mating opportunities. This social order generally ensures harmony within the pack until, that is, one member believes they should be of a rank higher to another member.

Our domestic dogs retain much of this natural instinct and most aggressive behavioural problems in the home can often be attributed to instability in the hierarchical order. Remember that your dog sees itself as a member of the same pack as the rest of your family members. If they perceive that another member is weaker than themselves they will display aggressive behaviour as a means to take control and improve their ranking. It is essential that your dog learns to be content as the lowest ranking member of the pack. There are many tips on how you can achieve this in a positive way.

Food Aggression:
Food aggression occurs when a dog feels it needs to be aggressive in order to protect a vital resource. If a dog or puppy has been deprived of food at some time in their lives, or perhaps had to fight over communal food bowls, it may be prone to food aggression. Here are a few tips to help avoid this happening:

Feed dogs individually such that they cannot eat each other's food.

Teach your dog that humans being near its food is a good thing. Try approaching your dog's food when they are eating and leaving some exciting treats next to their bowl. Do the same with bones and chews; tempt your dog away from them with even more tasty treats then allow them to return to their bowl or bone. Your dog will soon learn that you are not there to take its food but to give it even more pleasurable things to eat.

Never respond to food aggression with aggression yourself. This teaches your dog that they have to be even more aggressive to get their message through.

Pain induced Aggression:
When a dog is in pain we may inadvertently cause further pain when moving them or trying to help. It is not unusual for dogs to bite in these circumstances so we should take extra care when handling dogs with illnesses or injuries.

This article should only be considered a basic introduction to what is a highly complex area. Thankfully this is an area that is far better understood today than it was about 20 or 30 years ago. There is now an number of authors who have produced very good books on this subject.

On a note of caution, dog aggression towards humans is very serious both in terms of injury to people and because of the high risk of legal prosecution which can have serious consequences for you and your dog. If your dog is showing dangerous aggression or has caused injury, self learning or purchasing a book is no substitute for immediate professional help. If you do have concerns about your dog and need help in finding assistance, please email us email and we will see what we can do to help.

http://www.canineconcepts.co.uk
© 2004 Canine Concepts United Kingdom
reprinted with kind permission from Canine Concepts

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Types of Aggression

http://www.k9aggression.com

Treatment Forms of Aggression
Although types of aggression have been identified and neatly categorized here, the reality is aggression is not so neatly segregated. It is rare to see a dog with only one type, thus complicating the diagnosis and treatment. [1].

Generally the methods to treat aggression are:


Avoiding situations that provoke the aggression
Taining (behavior modification)
Pharmacological intervention (use of behavior altering drugs)
Surgical intervention (usually castration of the male dog)

Owner directed or "Dominance" Aggression
The most common and complex of category of aggression. "Dominance" aggression is somewhat misnamed, as it is about the concept of control. Truly "alpha" and confident dogs are usually quite tolerant of subserviant members of the pack. A dominant or pushy dog does not mean it is or will be aggressive.

Indications: growling, lifting a lip, snarling, snapping or biting directed primarily at family members or people (see Dog-On-Dog aggression) with whom the dog is familiar. The dog usually has conflicts with who the dog regardes being mostly closely ranked to him or her. It is both inherited and learned.

Approximately one in five aggression problems brought to a veterinarian are dominance related. [2] Generally the belief is the posture of aggression is a self confident one opposed to a submissive one (fear aggression). It tends to be in response to competitive contexts, dominant-appearing postures or interaction by the owner. However, dogs might be divided into two groups - those that know they are in control (less common) and those that are unsure of their social role and use aggressive behaviors to determine what is expected of them (more common).

Dominance aggression is the dog's problem and not caused by the response of the owner, although the owner could inadvertently encourage the inappropriate behavior to develop.

An association between territorial aggression and dominance-related aggression has been reported.[3]


Things that could set off the dog:

Attempting to dominate the dog (staring at, punishing, etc.,)

Disturbing the dog while resting

Approaching while the dog is eating, playing with or near a valued resource or object, reaching for

Handling/touching the dog 

Fear Aggression
Fear aggression occurs when the dog is scared whether or not an event has occurred that scared the dog. The difficulty for owners hearing this diagnosis, is that is encourages them to reassure the dog which reinforces the inappropriate behavior.

Initial behaviors can include:

snapping
growling
escape attempts

Other behaviors may include:

changes in pitch and volume of vocalization,
snapping and biting if threat continues
possibly urination, defecation or anal sac expression.
Body postures associated with fear aggression include:
a lowering the the head and body (ears are often flattened)
piloerection (hackles)
ears moved back
wrinkled muzzles
horizontal then vertical lip retraction
snarling

These dogs try to avoid the situation by backing up until they are cornered, then they bite. This is in contrast to the normal dog who puts his tail between his legs, cowers, and hides when afraid, but shows no signs of vocal or physical signs of aggression. It is a learned behavior that can become habitual and continue even after the dog is no longer afraid.

Territorial or Protective Aggression
Territorial aggression is defined when the dog protects an inappropriate location as its territory, or an inappropriate location in an inappropriate context.

It presents as aggression to strangers when what the dog considers as the dog’s turf (owners, home, surrounding streets, car, etc.). is perceived by the dog as being threatened in some way. People in uniforms are a particular target. Can be friendly on neutral territory such as a veterinary clinic.

Protective aggression relates to the dog's perception that his owner is being threatened in some way. Its important to understand this is what the dog perceives, not what we perceive. Again, true protective aggression is when the dog reacts inappropriately and out of context when there is no real threat.

Both dominance aggression and fear-related aggression can be components or can be independently of the behavior. Generally speaking it is the intensity of the territorial or protective drive that is inherited, and is augmented through learning.

Dog-on-Dog Aggression Related to Dominance
Can be generalized or specific to situations. The dog is aggressive to some other dogs and displays both posturing (body held erect, tenseness, tail held up, eyes fixed on other dog) in the presence of other dogs and other signs of dominance at home (being overly confident or pushy).

It is considered abnormal behavior when the dog responds to another dog whether or not the dog is challenging or appears threatening in anyway. Additionally is is difficult to know if the dog is actually fear or territorially aggressive. Only a careful, context specific history can provide this.  

Dog-on-Dog Aggression— Related to pack (sibling rivalry)
Usually occurs with a known dog or between dogs living in the same household. It usually involves challenges for status. Challenges may involve access to resources (toys, attention, food), or may be more passive and involve posturing and manipulating the trajectory and behaviors of the other dog. Often occurs between dogs of similar age, or when the younger dog reaches social maturity. If the older dog refuses to give way, or neither can maintain sufficient status to win over the other dog, interdog aggression results.

A less common form is when submission of one dog is not enough to discontinue the aggression. To the extent that this aggression is considered abnormal depends on the intensity of the (potentially lethal)response to normal canine behaviors designed to resolve the conflict.

Dog-on-Dog Aggression Related to Fear
Can be generalized or specific to situations. This involves more-generalized aggression to all dogs or dogs of a certain breed or size. The dog’s history may be important (for example, aversive events may have occurred in the dog’s life). Posturing may be a clue, as for example if the dog backs off with its tails tucked. Many of these dogs respond well to the combination of behavior modification and pharmacological intervention (anti-anxiety medication).

Predatory Aggression related to small animals
Two types: Dogs that stalk, stare at or silently pursue small animals, (including dogs), and sometimes infants, and those who chase moving objects such as bicycles, etc., although some dogs exhibiting this behavior may be exhibiting territorial behavior. For example, dogs that bark and discontinuing the chase once out of the dog's territory is not characteristic of predatory behavior.

Stealth is an element of hunting behavior and is considered more dangerous since the intent is to kill. This problem can not be treated easily. However if there is a problem within the home with a baby or other pet, these dogs can go to other homes and not be euthanized. Predatory behavior with small animals does not guarantee the dog will react inappropriately with infants, but indicates the dog is at risk for such problems. These dogs should never be off lead, unsupervised, or confined in an area where other animals might cross.

Possessive Aggression
Dogs that do not relinquish toys or objects to owners. If the owner tries to take the object the dog growls. Often the dog will present the object for play, and then strike when the owner reaches for the object. They may solicit attention and then respond to the attention with a challenge.

Aggression Towards Babies
Dominant, fearful and predatory dogs may all present a threat to babies and young children if they are not properly controlled. Dominant dogs often do not pose a threat until children reach toddling age.

Fearful dogs are most likely to be aggressive if they cannot escape the unwanted attentions of unfamiliar or seemingly obnoxious children.

Predatory dogs may pose a threat to newborn infants, but when the child can sit up, the infants often no longer elicit predatory responses from the dog.  

Redirected Aggression
Dogs may redirect aggression if interrupted in another aggression (i.e. dog-on-dog aggression). The dog may turn and threaten or bite the closest person or animal to them, who are often not involved. These dogs may be non-aggressive in the absence of the interruption of another threat.

However, if it is in response to an individual who was punishing or threatening to him then other aggressions types would have to be considered. It is possible that it could be part of dominance aggression.

Food-Related Aggression
Dogs react inappropriately to people or dogs around food. Generally the higher quality the food, the more pronounced the aggression. It can be difficult to treat because protecting food may be ancestral adaptive behavior.

When directed at people it may be an early indication of developing dominance aggression later in life. It easiest to feed the dog in an area that guarantees no disturbance. The behavior won't improve, but it won't worsen. Some behavior modification can be beneficial, but anyone who doubts their ability to execute desensitization around food should avoid it. Free feeding is not recommended.

Play Aggression
Barking, growling or snapping while playing. A play growl is different from a serious one. True aggressive growls are lower pitched and prolonged. A play growl is usually high-pitches, short, and repeated frequently. Changes in the pitch may happen too quickly to safely detect.

Puppies that have not been exposed to other dogs often to other dogs may play inappropriately, or may play inappropriately because the owner encouraged rough play. Some play aggression is the result of abandonment, lack of interaction (in a shelter for example), or restricted access to other dogs in a normal play situation.

Maternal Aggression
A female protection of her litter, or even toys or possessions during false pregnancy. This can appear to be competitive aggression however it is hormonal based. This aggression only lasts two months during the false pregnancy stage or longer if there is an actual litter produced. It can frequently occur with out a threat display.

However, some hormonal imbalances can cause abnormal maternal behavior that requires treatment with medication, and is particularly important to seek help from your vet if the mother dog injures her pups. Spaying reduces maternal aggression.

Health Related Aggression
The health of a dog can be a big factor a dog’s behavior (see aggression related to seizures, pain, old age, and medications below). Always talk to your vet first about your dog’s aggression. See medical issues of aggression for greater detail.

Some diseases causing aggression could be Hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing's disease), hypothyroidism, diabetes mellitus, brain tumors, cognitive dysfunction. Increased aggression around food and an increased appetite could be related to hormonal diseases.

Seizure Related Aggression
Caused by seizure-like brain disorders. Directed toward anyone or anything. Indications– violent, uncontrollable aggression is elicited by trivial stimulus. There is a pre aggression mood change, which last for minutes or hours before an attack and a post aggression depression with reduced responsiveness. It is sometimes associated with compulsive behaviors, such as self-licking or snapping at imaginary flies. See medical issues related to aggression for greater detail.

Pain Related Aggression
Response to illness, injury or chronic pain, such as underlying medical problems such as painful muscles, joints, and teeth, an uncomfortable gastrointestinal system or neurological problems. Aggression can be toward nearest human or animal.

Aggression Related to Old Age
The loss of hearing or sight can cause a dog to be caught off guard, resulting in aggression. Also a dog may have some health issues (also see Health, Pain and medication related aggression).

Aggression Influenced by Medications
Always check with your vet if your dog is taking any medication to see if the medication could contribute to aggression, or if the aggression may be a reaction to the medicine. Some common medications that can contribute to aggression: Phenobarbital (required medication for seizures, Prednisone or other corticosteroids.., NSAIDs, including Rimadyl

Aggression categories complied from:
Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals, Karen L. Overall, M.A., V.M.D., Ph.D. Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Behavior, Department of Clinical Studies, School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia. Pennsylvania, Mosby, Inc. 1997
The Dog Who Loved Too Much: Tales, Treatments, and the Psychology of Dogs, Dr. Nicolas Dodman, BVMS, MRCVS, Bantom Books, 1997
References
[1]Special report, Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine Animal Health Newsletter by Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine Animal Health Newsletter 53 Park Place, new York, NY 10007
[2] The Dog Who Loved Too Much: Tales, Treatments, and the Psychology of Dogs, Dr. Nicolas Dodman, BVMS, MRCVS, Bantom Books, 1997
[3]Canine Aggression: Neurobiology, Behavior and Management, Ilana R. Reisner, DVM, Phd, DACVB, Orgiginally posted on :http://www.vetshow.com/friskies/cani.htm
K9aggression.com is committed to making a positive difference in the lives of aggressive dogs, their owners and those around them. By providing education, inspiration and support through online communication we hope to promote responsibility, action, and understanding.

©2002-2007 Copyright k9aggression.com.All rights reserved.
reprinted with kind permission from Jackie and the K9aggression.com Group
http://www.k9aggression.com

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THE PET CONNECTION

http://www.veterinarypartner.com

By Gina Spadafori Pet Columnist   

Canine Aggression: Heed the Warning Signs

If you have ever, even for a moment, been afraid of your dog or what he might do, you need help, whether you realize it or not.

Aggression in dogs has both genetic and learned factors. Some dogs are born with the potential to be aggressive, and that potential can be fully realized in a home that either encourages aggressive behavior or is ill-equipped to cope with it. Other perfectly nice dogs can become unreliable fear-biters because of abusive treatment -- and remain time bombs even in loving new homes.

Maybe you prefer to live in a state of denial, hoping nothing awful involving your dog will ever happen. Nearly 4.5 million American dog owners are jolted into reality every year -- 4.5 million being the number of bites reported in the latest Journal of the American Medical Association, based on surveys by researchers at the Center for Injury Research and Control at the University of Pittsburgh. The researchers also reported that in 1996, 334,000 dog-bite victims ended up in emergency rooms, and 20 died.

Is your dog potentially dangerous?
Answer these questions, and be brutally honest:

-- Has your dog ever "stared you down"? I'm not talking about a loving gaze -- my dogs will hold those for minutes at a time. I'm talking about a hard, fixed, glassy-eyed stare that may be accompanied by erect body posture -- stiff legs, ears forward, hackles raised.

-- Do you avoid doing certain things with your dog because they elicit growling or a show of teeth? Are you unable, for example, to approach your dog while he's eating or ask him to get off the couch?

-- Do you make excuses for his aggressive behavior, or figure he'll "grow out of it"?

-- Do you consider your dog "safe" -- except around a particular group of people, such as children? When he growls at the veterinarian, do you tell yourself the behavior is reasonable, and a veterinarian should be able to cope with it, after all?

-- Has your dog ever bitten anyone, even if it was "only" once and because "it was an accident," "he was scared," "he's usually so good!" or some other equally inexcusable rationalization? Little dogs often get excuses made for their behavior, but growling and snapping is no more acceptable from a Pomeranian than from a pit bull.

If you have a problem, get help. Now. You should no more attempt to cure aggression yourself than you should try to treat cancer. The reason is the same: You haven't the training and the expertise to do so. If you suddenly try to eliminate your dog's self-appointed role as leader of your pack, there'll be trouble.

Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist with experience in aggressive dogs. And realize from the start that just like cancer, aggression is a disease that is sometimes not curable. Have your dog neutered -- most dogs involved in attacks are young, unneutered males -- and follow the expert's advice on retraining.

If in the end you have a dog who still cannot be trusted, have him euthanized -- it's the only responsible thing to do. Yes, it's very hard. But if your dog is a biter, he'll probably end up euthanized eventually. The difference is that if you wait, someone will get hurt first.

Finding an aggressive dog a new home -- one with no children, perhaps -- is not the answer. Children are everywhere, and you may be responsible for one of them being hurt if you pass a problem dog onto someone else. Especially if you do so without admitting the real reason you're finding him a new home, knowing that no one will adopt a biter. You do the dog no kindness, and you put the new family at risk.

Canine aggressiveness never improves on its own. Get help, before someone gets hurt.
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of Dogs for Dummies, Cats for Dummies and Birds for Dummies. She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her at petconnection@gmail.com.
Date Published: 7/1/2002 4:23:00 PM
COPYRIGHT 2002 - 2007 UNIVERSAL PRESS SYNDICATE; 4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; 816-932-6600.
This work was originally published by Veterinary Information
Network, Inc. (VIN) and is republished with VIN's permission.

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