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Canine
Body Language
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Dogs display so many reactions
with their ears, their mouths, their tails and with the whole stance of their
bodies that you must have asked yourself why they do it and how much of
it really means something.
The most difficult thing to learn to do is anticipate your dog as they
can seem to do things without warning. They actually do tell us what they
are thinking, they use their eyes to convey what they are about to do and
the position of their head and ears. By learning to read your dog by watching
for changes in their posture, head position and bodily tension you will
be able to anticipate their thoughts and then prevent them from going forward
and carrying out that thought. This then keeps your dog in a calm submissive
state of mind. Be sure that you understand canine body language.
To keep your pet (and yourself) safe, its critical that you be able to recognize
the difference between play and aggressive postures. Many problems can be
prevented if you know what to look for. Learn what to do in case of a dog
fight.
Dogs
Body Language
Body Language Between
Human and Dog
Canine Communication and Body Language
Reading Canine Body Posture
Canine Body Language
Dog
- to- Dog Communication
How to interpret Dogs Body Language
The Face of Fear
Dogs Body Language
Over the
past few years dog trainers/behaviourists have been getting far more
problems with dogs biting people. Children and adults. We
are not talking about the ones that make the media, but normal every day
family pets.
The main reasdon for this is that dog owners and the general
public, do not understand the signals that the dog is giving off to
stress or threats. If something happens that the dog is unhappy
about, he cannot 'tell' you. He can only let you know by his body
language. Unfortunately most people do not understand this 'doggy'
language and the thing he is worried about continues, untill someone
gets bitten. This is his last resort. Too many dogs nowadays,
are being pulled around by children in an inappropriate way.
The children are having fun. If you watch the dog
is not. This is how children get bitten, usually on the face,
because that is level with the dogs mouth. If parents/grandparents
etc can get to understand the dogs signals, children and dogs will be
saved from suffering.
There is a ladder that the dog will scale before he gets
to the stage of biting.
To start with you will get:
Yawning, blinking, nose licking most of this isn't
even noticed by owners. These are important
signals. Whatever is happening should be stopped and thought
about what is going on.
Turning the head away. The dog doesn't want
to know, trying to ignore it.
Turning Body away, sitting, pawing.
Walking away. He REALLY
doesn't want to get involved as he is worried.
Creeping with ears back. This is the one that
everyone thinks he is looking guilty. He isn't, he is very very
worried, about where things are going.
Standing Crouched, tail tucked under.
Lying down. Leg up. He is now trying to appease
the person who is worrying him.
Stiffen up, stares. Stop whatever you are doing NOW, it should have been earlier, but stop NOW.
GROWLING
SNAPPING.
BITE!!!
Just observe your dog and see how many of the very first
signals your dog gives you each day. If you see them, then it
is up to you as the responsible adult and the carer [by law] of the animal,
to stop the distress to the animal.
reprinted with kind permission from Wendy Bell
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Read Your
Dog Like a Book
A Guide
to Canine Communication & Body Language
To really understand our dogs you need to be able to listen
and more importantly see what they are trying to
tell us.
A couple of years ago a Japanese electronics company came
up with a Gizmo which they claimed could convert dogs barks, yip,
yelps and whines into human language, thereby allowing us to understand
“Doggie” speak for the first time.
I was on a radio program recently, discussing the merits
and usefulness of a new dog collar that was also a mobile phone. You
could ring up and converse with your dog at any time, and enjoy a nice
cosy chat. You might as well text your pet for all the good phoning would
do; the mostly likely outcome would be to startle and frighten your pet.
In reality, real canine language is not just verbal; it
is a rich visual language, where dogs are able to converse with each
other irrespective of breed or nationality. A Collie from Wales can
converse with an Akita from Japan and a Poodle living in France with
a village dog in Ethiopia.
Dogs have a truly universal language that can be incredibly
subtle and wide ranging. This marvellous language is one that we
can also learn and understand, and through that ability communicate
with our dogs far more effectively.
However this is a language that needs to be practiced for
our dogs to be fluent. That is why early socialisation, puppy classes,
and controlled play with other vaccinated dogs is so vitally important,
especially in the critical periods from 7 to 16 weeks. As a behaviourist
I get to treat many of these animals that are unable to give calming
signals or are stunted in their ability to meet and greet because of
the lack of early socialisation.
These are normally the ones that have fear and animosity
towards other dogs and sometimes humans, culminating in the most common
aggression of all “Fear”. In many cases, they are unable to understand
or signal their intentions; a classic example is boxers who are often
attacked by other dogs. They have been bred with flattened features that
are almost immobile, then we dock their tail to a tiny useless stub,
making them unable to display some of the facial and tail signals that
are so important in the greeting ritual.
I said earlier that we can learn this language, however
some aspects of canine language are so complex, that we cannot even
start to reproduce it with our puny two legs, small immobile ears,
and lack of tail.
We are further hampered by the fact that we tend to think
that our pets can understand complex thought patterns; we assume a
dog's level of understanding is on a par with our own. This is known
as “anthropomorphism”, the dictionary definition is “The attribution
of human motivation, characteristics, or behaviour to nonhuman organisms
or inanimate objects”. It is a bit like saying that a vine climbed up
the tree to getter a better view of the garden.
Dogs and Vocalisation
Dogs do bark and vocalise it is a part of their ability
to converse, however this is only one factor in your dogs language
repertoire, effectively when they bark they are saying “Heyyyyy”.
This can be happy, demanding or questioning. They also communicate
verbally in other ways the excited Yip when you get the lead out, the
bark they make when someone is at the door, quite different from the
nervous bark when they hear something unusual.
Having said that true communication comes from the glance,
the head position, the body posture, and a myriad of other signals
constantly being passed back and forth. Dogs try to converse with us,
but without understanding the subtly of the language we often miss most
of what they are trying to convey. This can cause misunderstanding and
confusion and may be one of the main reasons we get the behavioural problems
we see today.
Greeting and Appeasing Signals
We humans are the direct descendants of primates including
ape’s chimpanzees, bonobos and gorillas. That is not to denigrate
our unique position on the evolutionary ladder, but our heritage is
none the less, Primate. Dog’s ancestry is intrinsically linked to the
wolf, therefore Canids, which include wolves, coyotes, and jackals, a
very different species with very different body language.
Where communication sometimes breaks down is when we greet
other species, we tend approach then as we would humans, face on making
full eye contact; we often hug, face to face, putting our faces close
together. Just look at the common greeting of kissing both cheeks.
To a dog, this is a threatening gesture and is deemed rude and inappropriate.
Have you ever seen dogs hug? In the main most of our pets
suffer this indignity in silence but not always. This is one of the
reasons people are bitten, especially young children under five, who
tend to cuddle everything they can get their hands on. This coupled
with the fact that you cannot negotiate with a child under five, you
have more chance of negotiating with a terrorist. Ask any mother, this
sadly makes the toddler one of the most frequent victims of dog bites.
If you stand over a dog and ruffle the top of its head this
can also be perceived as threatening, imagine someone coming up to
you and ruffling your hair every time you met, how would you
feel?
Turid Rugaas (1) The Norwegian behaviourist and acknowledged
expert on reading the intricate body
language of our canine companion’s states that dogs have
a highly developed set of calming signals that act as diffusers of
aggression and conflict. These signals include circling, lip licking,
yawning, sniffing the ground, looking away, moving very slowly and
deliberately, the body shake as if shedding water, distracted sniffing,
and either sitting or lying down. These signals are aimed at other dogs
but are also directed at us, who are also perceived loosely as pack members.
Just as we expect our pets to understand our every word,
then dogs think we can interpret their signals, quite often these are
the ones we miss when our dogs are stressed or worried. If you can spot
them you can actually signal back calming gestures in response such
as yawning, lip licking, moving slowly, and looking away. This helps
to diffuse the situation and relax your pet.
If you think about it, these actions are the opposite of
the aggressive stance that dogs take as a prequel to an attack or dogfight.
Aggression
As opposed to the calming signals, this body
language is initially easier to read and includes ears pinned back
flat against head, or sometimes pointed forward, hackles raised, hard
stare, low head stance, stiff legged walk, lips skinned back, and tail
either upright and quivering or straight out not wagging. There may
be low growling or a snarl. Sometimes the dog gives a whale eye this is
when the head is turned slightly away but the eyes showing the whites are
turned towards you. This is often the look when the dog is guarding something
like a bone. All these signals are a threat, the dog is saying stop what
you are doing or there could be violence.
In Wolf packs these threat displays are a way of controlling
the hierarchical structure, the breeding males and females will control
their pack position by these overtly aggressive stance . Rarely does
it turn into violence these animals cannot really afford to be injured
or hurt in an all out fight, therefore threat displays normally suffice.
Because of our and sometimes other dogs, inability to read
the postures and body language and give calming signals in return means
that sometimes the threats can actually escalate into physical violence.
Timid Dogs:
If you find that your dog is very fearful or timid round
strangers get them to walk him on a lead with you, it calms and gives
confidence to the stressed dog, make sure you are walking next to
the dog at the same time
In conclusion, we need to watch and learn from our pets,
if you write down the numerous signals your pet gives and in what context
you will gradually build up an understanding of what he is saying to
you You can then signal back appeasing signals in return turn your head
away, yawn, or lick your lips at a fearful or aggressive dog and you
may just diffuse the situation.
With practice and given time, you should find yourself able
to communicate with your dog with a more enriched and sophisticated
vocabulary. This will benefit both you and your dog and will result
in a stronger bond and understanding of each others needs.
© June 2005
This article was written by Stan Rawlinson, a full
time Dog Behavioural Consultant and Obedience Traimer.
You can visit his website at www.doglistener.co.uk for more
articles and training information. You may freely distribute this
article or save to any electronic media as long as it is left intact,
including this copyright box.
Please let me know out of courtesy where and when you publish.
E.mail will suffice.
Canine Communication
Stan
Rawlinson
Canine Communication
and Body Language Part 2
A Further
Understanding
Critical Periods
If we separated a human baby from all contact with other
humans until it was five years old, then that child would never learn
the ability to speak or to empathise and converse comfortably. In most
cases, it would be fearful and introverted. 0 to 5 years old is a critical
learning period for humans. The old saying “give me the child and I will
show you the man” holds more truth than we have ever imagined. We learn
more during this period that at any other time in our lives. In relative
terms 0 to 16 weeks is the equivalent in canine age.
Forget the old wives tale that one year of a human equates
to seven in a dog. A far more accurate measurement is fifteen for the
first year, ten for the second and five for every year thereafter
(though it depends on the breed and size) If you therefore calculate
16 weeks, it comes out as 5 years in human years. This coincides with
Scott and Fullers 20-year observations on the critical periods of
puppy’s psychological growth.
Socialisation
I cannot emphasise enough the need to socialise you puppy
during this vitally important period. There is a vaccination now available
where the full course can be administered by ten weeks rather than the
normal twelve, therefore allowing two extra weeks of socialisation.
The vaccine is by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L.
Get your pups to socialisation classes, it is not enough
to allow them just to mix with adult dogs they learn the
all-important body language much quicker by being in the
company of younger as well as older dogs. Nearly all the cases I
deal with that involves interdog fear or aggression, relates to lack
of early socialisation during the critical 0 to 16 weeks.
The good news is that unlike humans, dogs can learn to communicate
after this vital period though they will never be fluent; they can
learn to cope given time and lots of patience.
Stress
All animals including humans suffer stress at some time
in their life, to some extent it is part of the survival instinct,
it floods the body with adrenalin pumping the muscles up allowing us
to decide whether to fight, freeze or flight.
Dogs have a powerful set of body postures that alleviate
stress and diffuse potentially threatening situations, the shake, as
if shedding water is one way of alleviating stress. We do not always
see the signs such as dilated pupils, restless pacing, scratching, panting,
loss of appetite, sudden dandruff and sweating. Most people think dogs
sweat through their tongues by panting; this is a cooling system but
has nothing to do with sweating. Dogs only sweat through their paws, damp
footprints can be a sign of panic and fear.
Aggression
When we approach a dog that is either fearful or control
complex aggressive aka dominant, we can often tell by body language
if they are likely to attack. Look for balance, if the weight and balance
is on the front foot and it is leaning forward at the shoulders and
is making hard eye contact then it normally means business. If the balance
however is on the back feet and the eyes are darting away and it is yawning
or licking, then unless cornered or challenged it is unlikely to just
attack out of the blue.
If we also put our weight on our back foot, we can often
diffuse a potentially dangerous situation. Weight and balance are
magnified in a dog’s mind, they are always looking for the subtle nuances
in our body language, and this is especially true of a nervous dog. I
was at a clients recently, when I leaned slightly back putting the weight
on my back foot the dog approached, when I transferred the weight to my
front the dog moved away.
Many people believe that if the hackles are up this is a
sign of aggression. This is not always the case, a dog that is excited
can raise its hackles, its actual intentions will be apparent depending
on the approach, if it curves round coming in from the side and sniffs
the ground as it approaches than its intentions are normally peaceful.
If it comes in face on stiff legged and circling then it could be a prequel
to aggression.
Appeasement Gestures
Lets look at meeting and greeting, as one dog approaches
another you will see a wide range of reactions. Some dogs will lie
down almost flat to the ground we often see this in Border Collies.
Some will lie and slightly roll over averting there eyes this is a
submissive but friendly gesture The ones that lay down but in a Sphinx
position head erect and body and tail upright are signalling to the
other dog that they are confident and high ranking but are friendly and
its ok to approach.
Others will yawn, circle slowly but not stiff legged, sniff
the ground and allow eyes to constantly dart these look then look
away again this is also a non-threatening approach. Others will stand
off and await the other dog to approach so they can observe the approaching
dogs intentions before deciding whether to greet. Just standing still
can appease nervous dogs, lifting a paw up and down is another gesture
I often see this signal to both dogs and humans, blinking eyes is a
also diffuser of aggression that we can also use. Couple this with yawning
averting our head and licking our lips and you can often calm a nervous
or aggressive dog.
Clients often tell me that their aggressive dog dislikes
black or dark dogs, and they cannot understand why? It is simple really;
they cannot read the intent on a very black background therefore they
are unable to react to the calming signals. I am occasionally told that
some dogs are racist to coloured people; Dogs cannot be
racist unlike humans they have no moral or racial preconceptions,
this form of aggression is simply because they cannot distinguish features
and intent on a darker background and may become fearful or aggressive
because of that.
Rank
I am not of the school of thought that thinks there are
no such things as dominant dogs. It appears that it now politically
incorrect to use this word to describe a dog’s position or state of
mind. If we agree the fact that dogs have submissive tendencies then
the antonym (exact opposite) of submission is dominance. If we accept
that like many other creatures’ dogs do have levels of status, then
status brings in rank and therefore control and dominance. I am well
aware that the word dominance is vastly overused and in many cases is
blamed for almost all canine problems, but to suggest that there are no
dominant tendencies in some dogs psyche is to my mind mistaken and an
exercise in semantics.
Having said that I am constantly told that this or that
dog is displaying dominant aggression. In fact quite the opposite
is mainly the case. The confident and high-ranking dog has no need
for aggression. Its body language and controlled air shows all who
can read the signs that this is not a dog to mess with. The wolf pack
rarely has a need for actual aggression it is mainly stylised posturing
that allows the hierarchy to exist peacefully. Generally, fear and lack
of controlled early socialisation, causes most aggression based behavioural
problems, that and our inability to read the clear signals that our pets
are constantly beaming to us.
In conclusion, we need to watch and learn dog speak, write
down the signals your pet gives and in what context it was used. With
practice and given time, you should find yourself able to communicate
and signal back, this will benefit both you and your dog and will result
in a stronger bond and understanding of each other’s needs resulting
in a relaxed and pleasant relationship.
© September 05
This article was written by Stan Rawlinson, a full time Dog Behavioural
Consultant and Obedience Traimer.
You can visit his website at www.doglistener.co.uk for more
articles and training information. You may freely distribute this
article or save to any electronic media as long as it is left intact,
including this copyright box.
Please let me know out of courtesy where and when you publish.
E.mail will suffice.
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Canine Body Language
Every
dog was bred for a specific purpose. Even mixed breed dogs have genetically
instilled
instincts. When a dog becomes destructive or does not seem
to listen it is usually due to his genetic make-up, not because he's
a "bad dog." There are no bad dogs, only those that are misunderstood.
People do not understand canine language, therefore misinterpreting what
their dogs are trying to communicate.
Try to put yourself into your dog's world. You are telling
your companions that you need to exercise, or that you hate being alone
and bored all day. Yet, despite your pleas you are ignored and they
continue to abandon you. You decide to entertain yourself, get out your
frustrations and exercise at the same time. After destroying the couch
cushions, you still have some energy left so you find a pair of yummy
leather shoes. After all, leather is real close to your rawhide bone
and so much softer. You do not think of the consequences of your actions.
Only that you needed the outlet.
Another way to analogize this situation is to travel to
a country where you do not speak the language and you cannot find
an interpreter to help you. Frustrating, right? How will you find
your way around to see the sights? How will you tell the waiters what
you want to eat? How will you know what you are pointing at on the
menu? Sign language only goes so far.
Begin your relationship with your dog by clarifying the
communication process. Learn to speak his language. Teach him your
desires in a way he understands. Through this process, he will learn
the meanings of your words, body language and house rules.
Most animals communicate mainly through the use of body
language. The way they hold their ears, nose, body, tail, etc. Each
minute movement has a meaning. We often misunderstand our canine's
meaning when we see his teeth or the fur along his spine standing upward.
There are nuances of these behaviors that offer completely different
definitions. Observation of animals interacting with each other is
the key to full understanding.
Here is a small list of common canine body language, the
definitions, and how to react to them:
1. Your dog is greeting you, but showing his front
teeth. His tail is wagging slowly.
Definition: Your dog is happy to see you but also
showing you submission. Crouch down to his level and greet him enthusiastically.
This will prevent him from Trying to jump on you.
2. Your dog is looking at another dog, his ears perked
forward, eyes staring, tail wagging, fur slightly raised along his
shoulders.
Definition: He wants to go greet the other dog, but
is a bit afraid. Should you restrain him by pulling his neck collar,
this behavior can turn into aggression toward the other dog. Your dog
needs more time to interact with others of his own species.
3. Your dog has a habit of staring directly into your
eyes or those of other family members.
Definition: This is called the Alpha Stare. It's
a means of showing dominance. Never look away first. Looking away
first makes you appear submissive to your dog. However, if you are
being stared at by a strange dog in his yard, look away and slowly back
out of his yard. Not heeding his warning can be dangerous.
4. Your dog is greeted by another dog who is prancing
around him, tail up, ears forward, neck arched, and eyes staring.
Definition: This other dog is showing dominance to
your dog. Provided your dog remains submissive (i.e. keeps a low profile
and does not stare back), things will be fine. However, if your dog is
not a submissive type, break off the interaction by calling him to come
to you, and walking away.
5. Your dog is showing the sides of his teeth with a
curled lip.
Definition: This is a sign of aggression. It is currently
a warning which, if not heeded, will turn into a bite. This should
never be allowed to happen with your own pet. Seek the help of a professional
trainer immediately.
6. Your dog is panting lightly, ears swiveling or held
at the side. His tail is still.
Definition: Your dog is relaxed/happy.
These are but a few canine body language communications.
To fully understand canine body language there are several books available
that can help. However, the best means of learning what your dog
is telling you is through observation and an open mind. Anthropomorphizing
will not help you understand anything. Canines do not think in the
same manner as humans.
Unable
to contact author. reprinted because of the good points raised
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Getting Familiar with Doggie Language!
I felt I knew
a lot about dogs when we chose to adopt our first German Shepherd,
Moose, in 1999. After all, I had grown up with six family dogs at one
time in our home. I trained and showed dogs in both Obedience and Confirmation.
I felt I knew a great deal about dogs and no one could tell me otherwise.
That was six years ago. And how wrong I was!
Now I am fortunate
to say that my children have not been biten by our dogs or 50
some foster dogs that have come into our home. This is due to supervision,
managment, realistic expectations of both kids and dogs behavior, and
ongoing EDUCATION! I love to learn about human and animal behavior
and I hope that as you view some of our family photos
over the years
during my learning process that you will learn something too!
Feel free to
Contact Us with your feedback and or photos you might want to share.
At the time these photos were taken, I was not aware of
the signals my dogs were demonstating to me. I continue to learn
every day and am thankful for our dogs' patience with us humans!
Our dog Carin is showing this is stressful by Licking her lips,
ears back and turning away from the camara. Hugs confine dogs and
take away options to flee. Humans enjoy hugs not dogs. Your dog may
tolerate this from you or your children but that does not mean it makes
him comfortable or that it is the safest choice of interaction.
There
I was asking my son to "pose with Carin honey." Yikes! Look at her
eyes. Carin is clearly NOT enjoying this moment. Ears are way back,
mouth closed, turning away, half moon look.
Here
is Carin's really Happy face! Eye alert, relaxed, ears up. She looks
like she is smiling.
Moose
our senior gsd demonstrates turning away to avoid conflict and having
to look at the tempting kitty clover!
Clover
continues to move about in Moose's face while Moose politely keeps
turning away.
See
clovers green eyes as he settles in next to his buddy. Moose again
turning away.
Here
Carin turns away from Jack our Feline trainer of dogs. I have not told
the dogs these undignified photos are online. shhhhhh! Don't tell!
This
foster pup is wanting to play. Notice Carin is turning away with her
ears back. The pup is in her space and she is trying to avoid a conflict.
She is also up against a wall and it is crowded creating more potential
for conflict
Signals dogs
use with one another that we often miss.
These Calming
Signals are often demonstrated but are missed before a growl or snap
ever takes place.
They may be combined or demonstrated on their own. Observing
your dog in a variety of situations will allow you to see the following.
Licking lips/nose
Usually you see this with or before turning away or looking down.
Yawning at a time that being tired does not seem
to apply.
Turning head and/or body away.
Dogs use this signal to avoid direct eye contact as that may be
interpreted as threatening or inviting conflict.
Lifting a paw.
This one is often missed or seen as cute. Consider the entire
situation.
Shaking (like after a bath).
Ears back or pinned against head.
Closed mouth, tense muzzle and not panting.
Dogs pant for many reasons. When hot, thirsty and sometimes stressed.
When you are nervous or stressed you may sweat. A dog may pant.
Scratching or sniffing suddenly on the ground or themselves.
Half Moon Eyes. As if to say " Can't hear ya or pay
attention to you I am busy here!"
NEVER leave children unsupervised with a dog. This picture
to me best describes why.
1. Would your child recognize a dog's posture change?
2. Would your child recognize and know to turn away
like the pup?
My experiences prove to me that most children do not know
what to look for and how to behave around a dog and WHY!
My goal is to help change this.
******************
Unable
to contact author
There are
very good points raised in this article which we felt would help to
eliminate some potential dangers to children who have not been taught
how to behave around their canine companians.
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How to Interpret Dogs Body Language, Facial Expressions
and Vocalizations
Bashkim
Dibra
Over the centuries
wolves evolved an elaborate system of body language, facial expressions,
and vocalizations to communicate with each other. Domestic dogs also
use this means of communication, and all of these signals are easily
understood by other dogs. If you can learn to interpret how your dog is
feeling by observing its posture and expression and listening to it, you'll
be well on the way to successful communication with your pet and better
equipped to solve any behavior problems that arise.
Following are some major canine attitudes and their typical
outward manifestations.
AGGRESSIVE
Ears Forward or back, close to head.
Eyes Narrow or staring challengingly.
Mouth/ Teeth Lips open, drawn back to expose teeth bared
in a snarl. Possible jaw snapping.
Body Tense. Upright. Hackles on neck up. Completely Dominant
position.
Tail Straight out from body. Fluffed up.
Vocalization Snarl. Growl. Loud bark.
ALERT
Ears Perked-up. Turning to catch sounds.
Eyes Open normally or wide.
Mouth/ Teeth Mouth closed or slightly open with teeth covered.
Body Normal. Possibly standing on tiptoe. Slightly Dominant
position.
Tail Up. Possibly wagging.
Vocalization None. Low whine or alarm bark.
ANXIOUS
Ears Partially back.
Eyes Slightly narrowed.
Mouth/ Teeth Mouth closed, or slightly open in a "grin."
Body Tense. Slightly lowered in a Submissive position.
Tail Partially lowered.
Vocalization Low whine or moaning-type bark.
CHASE, BEGINNING STAGE
Ears Perked-up, forward-pointing.
Eyes Wide open. Very alert.
Mouth/ Teeth Mouth slightly open. Excited panting.
Body Tense. Crouched low in a predatory position. Legs bent,
poised to run.
Tail Extended straight out from body.
Vocalization None.
CURIOUS/EAGER/EXCITED
Ears Perked-up, forward-pointing.
Eyes Wide open.
Mouth/ Teeth Mouth open, teeth covered. Possible panting.
Body Normal stance. Possible wiggling, standing on tiptoe,
or pacing.
Tail Up. Wagging.
Vocalization Excited short barking, whining.
DOMINANT
Ears Up straight or forward.
Eyes Wide open, staring.
Mouth/ Teeth Mouth closed or slightly open.
Body Very tall posture. Hackles may be up.
Tail Stiffened and fluffed. Up or straight out from body.
Vocalization Low, assertive growl or grunt.
FEARFUL
Ears Laid back flat and low on head.
Eyes Narrowed, averted. Possibly rolled back in head, whites
showing.
Mouth/ Teeth Lips drawn back to expose teeth.
Body Tense. Crouched low in submissive position. Shivering,
trembling. Possible secretion from anal scent glands.
Tail Down between legs.
Vocalization Low, worried yelp, whine, or growl.
FLIGHT, BEGINNING STAGE
Ears Back.
Eyes Wide open. Possibly rolled back with whites showing.
Mouth/ Teeth Slightly opened mouth. Possible drooling.
Body Tense. Shivering. Low, poised to run.
Tail Low or between legs.
Vocalization None. Possible yelp or whine.
FRIENDLY
Ears Perked-up.
Eyes Wide open. Alert look.
Mouth/ Teeth. Relaxed, possibly slightly open, "smiling"
mouth.
Body Normal posture. Still, or possible wiggling of whole
rear end.
Tail Up or out from body. Wagging.
Vocalization. Whimpering, yapping, or short, high
bark.
GUARDING
Ears Perked-up. Forward.
Eyes Wide open, alert.
Mouth/ Teeth. Mouth slightly open, teeth bared. Snapping
or gnashing of teeth.
Body Tense. Rigid. Hackles up. Standing very tall in an
aggressive or dominant stance.
Tail Rigid. Held straight out from body. Sometimes fluffed.
Vocalization. Loud alert bark. Growl. Snarl.
PLAYFUL/HAPPY
Ears Perked-up and forward, or relaxed.
Eyes Wide open. Sparkly/merry-looking.
Mouth/ Teeth Mouth relaxed and slightly open, teeth covered.
Excited panting.
Body Relaxed, or front end lowered, rear end up in the air,
wiggling in a play-bow. Excited bouncing and jumping up and down.
Circling around and running forward and back in an invitation to play.
Tail Wagging vigorously.
Vocalization. Excited barking. Soft play-growling.
PREDATORY
Ears Alert. Held forward or backward to catch sounds.
Eyes Wide open. Staring, focusing.
Mouth/Teeth. Mouth closed.
Body Rigid. Low to ground, ready to spring forward. Quietly
sniffing the air.
Tail Straight and low.
Vocalization None (so the prey won't be alerted).
SUBORDINATE (SUBMISSIVE)
Ears Down, flattened against head.
Eyes Narrowed to slits or wide open, whites showing.
Mouth/ Teeth Lips pulled way back from teeth in a "grin".
Nuzzling or licking other animal or person on face.
Body Lowered to ground, front paw raised. Lying on back,
belly up. Possible urine leaking/dribbling. Possible emptying of anal
scent glands.
Tail Down, between legs.
Vocalization None, or low, worried whining. Possible yelping/whimpering
in fear.
Copyright
© Bashkim Dibra
unable
to contact author. there are excellent points in this article which
we felt would prevent biting episodes with dogs and children
Dogs express fear
through body language and vocalization. To effectively modify your
dog’s fearful behavior, you must become familiar with his body language
and fear response patterns. Learning your dog’s characteristic responses
will allow you to recognize when his fear is being triggered, even
at the lowest level. With practice, you will be able to intervene immediately
and break the chain of escalating anxiety so the reaction does not become
extreme. If your dog tends to display fear by defensively lunging or biting,
you will be able to short-circuit the process before harm can be done.
Recognizing and monitoring your dog’s reactions is also crucial when practicing
behavior modification exercises, so that you can adjust the protocols based
on your observations.
The first observable sign that your dog is afraid might
be as subtle as a flick of the ear, a twitch of the lip, or a slight
tensing of the musculature. As fear levels increase, these and other
signals become more obvious.
Common Audible Signals
|
Common Visible Signals
|
Miscellaneous
Subtle Signals
|
whining
|
dilated pupils
|
sweaty paw pads
|
whimpering
|
tensed muscles
|
shedding fur/dandruff
|
growling
|
trembling
|
“clingy”/leaning on owner
|
barking
|
pacing
|
restlessness, hyperactivity
|
howling
|
extreme salivation/
drooling or
|
vigilantly scans environment
|
yelping
|
decreased salivation
|
shallow breathing or panting
|
screaming
|
rapid or very slow
blinking
|
“shaking off” (as if wet)
|
|
yawning
|
stretching
|
|
|
moving very slowly
|
Extreme: anal sac expression, loss of
bladder/sphincter control, vomiting
|
Help
for Your Fearful Dog
Body Language
Like any other language, canine body language must be studied
in order to become fluent. Instead of learning individual words,
you must first learn the significance of each individual body part’s
position and movement. One body part—for example, the tail—can convey
volumes about a dog’s emotional state. Then, just as words are combined
into sentences, individual body signals must be interpreted in conjunction
with others to paint a full picture of the dog’s internal state. Learning
to read your dog’s body language is a labor of love that will open the
door to improved understanding and communication. Once you are fluent,
you will be able to interpret his emotional states correctly, even as
they fluctuate from moment to moment.
Ears and Tail:
The most widely recognized canine fear posture is
distinguished by flattened ears and a tucked tail. The degree to
which these signals occur is in direct correlation to the degree of
fear the dog is experiencing. A dog who takes notice of a potential
threat might flick an ear back and lower his tail slightly, but reassume
a more relaxed posture once he has determined there is no need for
concern. A dog who is extremely frightened is more likely to flatten
his ears against his skull and curl his tail completely under so it covers
the ano-genital region. Becoming familiar with the position of your
dog’s ears when he is feeling relaxed will help you to recognize when
the ears are held back in a fearful or submissive response, or held forward
in a confident or even aggressive display. If you have a flop-eared dog
such as a Cocker Spaniel, changes in ear position will not be as obvious
as they are in a prick-eared dog such as a Siberian Husky. Begin to take
note of the position of your dog’s ears when he meets other dogs and people,
and when he encounters something that frightens him.
Dogs who are habitually
anxious may develop repetitive behaviors such as licking at paws
or chewing at other body parts. Repetitive stress-related behaviors
are called stereotypies (pronounced “stereo-tip-ees”). If ritualized,
chronic, and difficult to interrupt, they are termed obsessive-compulsive
disorders (OCDs). While stereotypies may disappear with increased exercise
and mental stimulation, OCDs are best treated with professional assistance,
as they may require pharmacological intervention.
It is also important to note the normal, relaxed position
of your dog’s tail. The tails of some breeds, such as Basset Hounds
and Beagles, are set moderately high and curve slightly. Some spitz-type
breeds, such as Alaskan Malamutes and Akitas, have extremely high-set
tails that curl over the back. Many sighthounds, such as Greyhounds and
Whippets, have low-set tails that are normally held in a low position;
for some, a tucked tail is normal. Other breeds, such as Labrador Retrievers
and Golden Retrievers, normally hold their thickly furred, low-set tails
parallel to the ground. Becoming familiar with your dog’s normal tail set
will help you to recognize when it is held higher or lower than usual,
which will tip you off to any change in your dog’s emotions.
Cropping the ears and docking the tail inhibit a dog’s ability
to communicate clearly with other dogs. These cosmetic procedures are
unnecessary, painful, and can result in surgical complications. Without
a sound medical reason to do so, they should be avoided.
Help for Your Fearful Dog
In addition to position, the movement of a dog’s tail provides
clues about how the dog is feeling. There is a common misconception
that a wagging tail is always attached to a happy dog. A Golden Retriever’s
tail, when he is happy (which seems to be 99.8% of the time), is held
parallel to the ground and wags loosely in a wide, swooping arc. But if
that same dog were anxious or fearful, the tail would be held lower, wag
faster, and make a smaller arc. A dog will sometimes hold his tail higher
than usual and wag it stiffly, like a flag, in a tight arc. The rest of
the body will be tense and motionless.
Many confident dogs display this type of highly alert body
language when meeting other dogs. It can also indicate a certain playful
cockiness. At my house, the “cocky tail” is usually attached to Mojo,
my beloved twelve-year-old German Shepherd/Rottweiler/Malamute mix.
Mojo’s cocky tail is obvious whenever he is being playfully antagonistic
toward Soko—for example, when he plants himself between her and her favorite
resting spot. Body still, tail high and wagging stiffly, you can almost
hear his inner Clint Eastwood: Do you feel lucky, punk? Well, do ya?
Eyes: The eyes of a relaxed, confident dog will be
opened wide, but not overly so. The eyes of a dog who is nervous
or anxious will appear smaller and elongated. Eyebrows may be raised
in an expression of concern (much as in humans), and wrinkling may
appear on the forehead. The pupils of a very frightened dog will
be dilated. In cases of extreme fear, the eyes may be opened very
wide with a lot of the whites showing. This is sometimes referred
to as “whale eye.”
Mouth:
When relaxed, many dogs hold their mouths partially
open in a way that resembles a grin. However, the mouth will close
momentarily when the dog is frightened or trying to determine whether
there is a real threat. Some dogs also puff out the flews—the fleshy
areas above the upper lips—on one or both sides. Once the dog has determined
that there is nothing to worry about, the facial muscles will relax and
that wonderful grin will return.
A fearful display may include a retraction of the corners
of the mouth. The mouth will be partially or completely closed, with
no teeth showing. This does not resemble your dog’s normal, relaxed
grin. Pilorerection: Piloerection—raised hackles, hair standing on
end—is frequently misinterpreted as a sure indication of aggression.
While it is true that piloerection often accompanies an aggressive display,
it can also manifest as the result of excitement or fear.
When dogs are frightened, they may raise their hackles to
make themselves look bigger and more intimidating. As noted ethologist
and author Dr. Roger Abrantes says, “The fearful, submissive and surprised
dog probably raises its hackles to frighten its opponent. If it succeeds
in making its opponent hesitate for a moment it will have a better chance
to prepare its defense, or flee.”
Weight distribution:
A more subtle aspect of canine body language involves
the distribution of body weight. The weight of a dog who is feeling
relaxed will be distributed evenly over the front and back legs. A
dog who is displaying dominance or aggression will often appear to be
leaning forward, the weight apportioned more heavily over the front
legs. A fearful dog’s weight, however, will be distributed more heavily
over the back legs, as though the entire body is leaning backward. Backward
leaning may be accompanied by a lowering of the body, as though the
dog is cringing or trying to appear smaller. A dog who is extremely frightened
might flatten himself completely against the ground. A dog who stretches
his muzzle forward to investigate something he is unsure about might
not have his weight distributed over his back end, but his back legs
are likely to be splayed, giving the impression of a dog who is nervous
and ready to flee at any moment.
Fight or Flight Response
The involuntary, instinctual reaction to fight or flee in
the face of perceived danger is known as the “fight or flight” response.
When this life-preserving response is triggered via the sympathetic
nervous system, physiological changes occur in an instant. Sequences
of nerve cells fire and adrenaline and other stress hormones are released
into the bloodstream. Heartbeat and respiration increase and digestion
slows so blood can be shunted away from the stomach to the limbs. These
internal changes are designed to protect the dog from harm by preparing
the body to fight or to run. When a serious threat appears at close range
but there is room to flee, a dog will normally choose flight. If restrained
at the time (for example, by a leash), a dog who desires to flee might
instead cower, attempt to hide, or strain to get as far away from the threat
as possible. When no form of flight is available, a serious, close-range
threat is likely to result in a fight. Any dog, no matter how mild-mannered,
may bite if left with no other choice but to defend himself.
Note: Once your dog’s system has been flooded with
stress hormones, be alert! Stress hormones do not leave the system
immediately, so if something else should frighten your dog after the
first incident, chances of a strong reaction are increased.
The way a dog reacts to a fear-inducing situation may be
breedrelated. For example, a 1958 study showed that when frightened,
Beagles freeze, while terriers run around frantically.
There are two other responses dogs may display when confronted
with danger. The first is simply to freeze in place. Freezing may happen
when the fear is at a low level or the threat is at a distance; it
gives the dog a moment to assess the situation and consider his options.
The second is known as “fidget/fool around.” A dog may search around
on the ground or perform other canine equivalents of human fidgeting,
or bounce or wiggle about, acting in a way we would term silly. While
these behaviors might appear pointless, they have a definite purpose—to
diffuse a threatening situation. Dogs may go into fidget/fool around mode
when trying to get another dog or person to stop acting in a threatening
manner.
Fear or Aggression?
The next time your dog encounters an unfamiliar dog or person,
note the distribution of his body weight, as well as other body language.
Are his ears pinned back, tail lowered, body leaning backward, with
weight distributed more heavily over the back legs? Is he barking or
growling, but backing away at the same time? If either of those descriptions
fits your dog, his motivation is most likely fear. The growling and
barking in this case is meant to increase the distance between your
dog and whatever is scaring him. The stance of a dog who truly intends
to harm another will appear “forward” as opposed to a back-leaning, fear-reactive
stance. In a classic confident display of aggression, a dog’s ears are
forward, the tail is held high, and body weight is distributed heavily
over the front legs. The lips may be retracted vertically in an agonistic
pucker—this fright-inducing bit of canine body language can be seen on
television programs where wolves respond to a threat by baring their teeth.
The agonistic pucker differs from the fearful, closed-mouth, corners-retracted
display. In the latter, the teeth are not seen; in the former, the lips
are retracted vertically to show the front teeth. An agonistic pucker
may be accompanied by a deep snarl. While barking may be a function of
either aggression or fear, snarling is always a sign of aggression. Some
dogs, when confronted with an unfamiliar dog or person, are conflicted
about how to respond. The dog might lunge in and then dart away, vocalizing
in a threatening manner but not really wanting to.
Unable
to contact author. Once again we thought there were good points
raised that would help educate children
back to top
**************************
THE CANINE BEHAVIOR SERIES
By Kathy Diamond
Davis
Author and Trainer
Body Language
between Humans and Dogs
Reading your
dog’s body language is never possible to do with 100% accuracy. Compare
this to humans, though. We don’t even come close to being able to read
all the body language of another human. Nor do we fully understand another
human’s words, even when we speak the same verbal language!
As a result, scholars endlessly discuss what an author or poet
meant to communicate in written words. People make entire careers of
being talented at determining from body language whether a particular
person is telling the truth or not, whether a person would make a suitable
employee for a specific job, or which prospective jurors an attorney
would do well to have on a jury.
If we have such difficulty reading the body language of other
humans, why should we even try to read the body language of dogs? Here
are some reasons:
1. It’s fun. If you ever have the experience of your
dog using body language to tell you a joke and you using it to respond—or
vice versa—you’ll treasure that memory. This fun enhances training,
too, such as when you encourage your learning dog to hustle out for a
play retrieve by racing the dog to the object.
2. Learning to read dog body language will help you
improve your reading of human body language and your ability to present
a clearer body language message yourself to other humans as well as
to dogs.
3. When you and your dog learn each other’s language,
you get to know each other better and become better able to achieve
common goals. These can range from housetraining a new dog to helping
an injured or arthritic one walk across a difficult surface.
4. When you consistently react positively to your dog’s
body language, the dog will try harder to communicate with you. Thus
you and your dog develop the ability for the dog to ask to go outside,
to perform scent tasks with you, and even to alert you of danger.
Sometimes, though, you need to kindly say “no” to a dog’s body
language requests without penalizing the dog for asking. Sometimes
the dog needs to know “not now,” for such times as when you’re not in
the mood to throw the ball. If the message is “don’t ever do that”— for
example begging for food at the table--you might do well to get up and
lead the dog to another room. The dog who persistently pesters
with the ball can be placed into a settle at your feet because you do
sometimes want to respond positively to a dog's request to play ball.
After all, it's a great thing when a dog tells us exactly what reward
would "hit the spot" at this moment! [See Settle.]
5. An ability to read your dog’s body language and to
present clear body language to your dog enables you to relieve a dog’s
fears that can lead to complex behavior problems.
For example, when an out-of-control child or animal approaches
your dog, you can step in front of your dog to block the approach.
Or you can make a wide swing walking with your dog on leash (or reliably-trained
cue to walk right with you) around the approacher, keeping your body
between your dog and the problem.
By doing this, you not only block the other one from coming
up to your dog, but you also control your dog. The message to your dog
is that you are on the job and it’s not the dog’s responsibility to
menace others encountered in public.
Movements of Intention
Dogs and humans both often give away what behavior they are
about to perform, in advance of actually performing it. Such movements
are sometimes called movements of intention. You can increase or decrease
how much you do this, and you can observe your dog to predict by these
movements what the dog is likely to do as well as when. Training is vastly
enhanced by this ability.
Movements around the eyes tell much. We can blink our eyes,
quickly, slowly, both together or one at a time. We can show more of
the eyeball by opening the eyelids more. We can roll our eyes upward
or look downward. We can cut our eyes purposefully in a particular direction
as a way of “pointing” there. We can also subtly or very pointedly break
eye contact with the other. Humans and dogs use these kinds of movements
both intentionally and unconsciously. You can even teach them to your
dog as specific signals for various actions. Making your eye movements
have interesting meanings for your dog will help encourage your dog
to learn to give you eye contact when you ask for it. This skill is an
important one that’s easy to teach and aids other training greatly. [See Eye Contact.]
Watch how a dog lies down. If both elbows are on the ground
and the hips are even, the dog is ready to get up quickly. If the elbows
are not actually on the ground, the dog is likely planning to break position.
A dog rolled over on one hip, perhaps with one front paw tucked under,
is more committed to staying down awhile.
You can use your fingers to show the dog directions—directions
to go and directions where things can be found. Dog eyes pick up movement
much better than still objects, so move the hand, fingers, arm, body,
etc. rather than holding a signal in one place.
You can accentuate a body language signal and help the dog
learn it by starting with gentle touches, until the dog reads the message
from the movement alone without any touch. Then you can be standing
where you can't even reach the dog to touch, and still use that signal.
Once you condition your dog to being comfortably guided by your touch,
this is an incredibly easy way to teach new things.
Dogs can learn to anticipate your movements by how you move
your knees, feet, hips, elbows: any body part. Be conscious of how you
are moving as you teach. Combine body language with voice, touch--and realize
it is also combining with your scent! You can use all the different ways
of communicating with your dog to help give each movement, each sound
and each touch the meaning your want it to have for your dog.
Behavior Modification
Using the settle exercise is an example of behavior modification
because when your dog gets this response consistently, the dog will
find other ways to enjoy your company. Being required to do a settle
is boring for the dog.
By reading the dog’s body language and showing clear body language
of your own to the dog, you make this merely a boring exercise rather
than a stressful one. The dog is even free to choose the new activity,
whether it be chewing a toy, taking a nap, playing with another animal
in the house, or whatever other options you have available. The result
is that the dog makes a desirable behavior change without undesirable
side effects such as defensive behavior. See Defensive
Dog Behavior.
In the case of the dog who is fearful of an approaching human
or dog in public—or who shows any other undesirable reaction—you want
to combine your observations of your dog with good moves on your part.
Let’s say you see a cat, and you have experienced your dog trying to chase
cats. Your dog is on leash, so you’re set to use this opportunity in modifying
your dog’s behavior.
Using the ability to notice your dog’s movements of intention,
you can most efficiently modify your dog’s behavior. First, you will
see the cat before the dog does, if you are being observant and if
the cat is not moving. You see still objects better than your dog does,
so you get a little advance information here.
This gives
you a moment to prepare for the action you will take when the dog reacts
to the cat—the very first movement of intention the dog makes. That might
be a change in body posture. It’s easier to read body language on dogs
with erect ears and intact tails. Even from behind, you can see erect ears
come up and swivel in the direction of the dog’s attention.
At the instant the dog notices the cat, get busy with something
for your dog to do, something irresistible. The focused attention exercise
using movement is perfect. You say the dog’s name as you briskly step
off in the other direction from the cat. As soon as the dog knows specific
cues such as moving with you or heeling in position, you can say that word
after the name. When the dog moves with you, give verbal praise, and then
deliver a reward that you have NOT previously had out in the dog’s sight.
You get maximum power over the dog’s attention if you have
the dog’s eyes on yours when you deliver the reward. You sustain the
dog’s attention on you and fully remove attention from the cat or other
distraction if you repeat the name/move/praise/reward sequence three
to five times in a row before releasing the dog’s attention by turning
your own eyes aside. Three to five repetitions are also usually enough
to move well away from the cat. [For more details on this exercise, see
Attention, Please!and Eye
Contact. Trainer Linda O’Hare Newsome developed this powerful
technique.]
Used consistently, the focused attention exercise will so effectively
modify a dog’s behavior that at sight of a cat or other distraction
you’ve worked on with the exercise, the dog will automatically look at
you. The look will be expectant because good things have consistently
happened in these situations.
To start the attention exercise, you move. The dog perceives
that movement and the need to catch up. This is different from a dog’s
perception when you give a hard jerk with your arm to yank the dog away
from something. It also spares the dog a tight leash from the dog pulling
hard towards something while you hang on to keep the dog out of trouble.
[See Loose Leash Training,
Leash Training for
Puppies, and Leash
Training for Adult Dogs.]
Your movement and your body language are what make the difference
here. You’re not giving the "Bad dog!" message that happens when you
just yank the leash. You’re saying “Look at me and let’s go!” in an upbeat
way, and dogs naturally understand that.
When the dog moves with you, you’re able to get the leash loose
again and quick-change into a reward for the dog. Then you repeat three
to five times in rapid sequence, holding the dog's attention throughout.
The leash is only a safety. Very soon your dog will move with you without
the leash even tightening.
If you were to just jerk the leash without moving your body
from one place to another, you could trigger unintended learning that
a person, place or thing causes the dog to experience pain or fear. You
can easily create one or more new problems much worse than the one you
were trying to fix.
In the cat example, a dog who previously chased cats may get
much more serious about catching them. The dog may develop distrust
of you, of training, of walks, of environments where these corrections
have occurred, or other unfortunate beliefs. You cannot help the dog
“talk it out,” because the dog doesn’t understand such verbal language.
Fears tend to trigger other fears, too. Fear and aggression are two sides
of the same coin in a dog--a coin that can flip when a dog is pushed too
hard.
If your dog has developed fear or aggression from situations
going badly, you then need to set up many repetitions of situations
that illustrate what you want the dog to learn. Carefully read the
dog’s body language to keep from triggering fears, and use your body
language combined with rewards to help the dog develop a new belief system.
It’s so much easier not to let these training errors happen in the first
place! [See Fear - How to Help
Your Dog Overcome It.]
Making this change demands that you take your negative emotions
out of handling your dog. Humans want to "stay mad" when changing another's
undesirable behavior. The dog lacks the verbal comprehension to understand
this, so indulging such human emotion only gets in the way of clear communication.
When you practice the physical training sequence until it becomes
natural for you, the joy that comes with handling a dog this way will
amaze you. If for any reason you don't want to use food in training your
dog, the sequence works fine with other rewards, too. Getting the body
language right is the key.
Think the Best, Not the Worst
When working with body language and dogs, be wary of looking
for negative body language. A prime example of this happens when people
come in and find a dog has had a housetraining accident or chewed something
destructively. The person makes an unhappy face, and the dog looks
guilty. The person proceeds to punish the dog. That is just wrong!
First, the dog doesn’t understand what you are mad about, just
that you are mad. Housetraining and chewing exclusively dog toys are
habits we help our dogs form. The dogs never understand why we want these
things. The dog also doesn’t connect what he or she did five minutes
ago (or eight hours) with your anger now. And you have no common language
to explain such complex concepts to the dog. When you punish in this
situation, the results are all bad.
Dogs develop defensive behavior from this kind of punishment,
lose trust in us, and suffer an increased risk of separation anxiety.
That is likely to mean more housetraining accidents and chewing, because
the dog is now not only bored or having trouble holding it for the length
of time we are gone, but now is also worried about what we'll do when
we return.
All of this comes from thinking the worst about a dog’s body
language. Actually, a dog who looks “guilty” is desperately trying
to get you to stop being mad. This is a powerful dog instinct, and can
also include involuntary submissive urination. A lot of people punish
this physical reaction, being unfair to their dogs, making it happen
more, and preventing a dog from getting over it. [See Separation Anxiety, those under
Housetraining, and Submissive
Urination.]
Jumping up on people is often misunderstood, too. This is usually
an affectionate attempt by the dog to get closer to your hands and face
for affection, which people usually encourage in puppies. The baby
dogs grow up, get big, keep doing what we taught them to do, and some
people punish them for it.
Punishment is the wrong move. Instead, read the movement of
intention in a situation where you know your dog is likely to jump,
and then one option is to put your hands down to dog level for petting.
Cue the dog to sit—of course, you’ll teach your dog to sit! If you’re
a bit late reacting and the dog is airborne, turn away. Swiveling a hip
toward the dog can work well, because it protects your body without jabbing
anything into the dog (no one is THAT skinny!).
If you’re really on the ball, you can back quickly away from
the dog with your open hands against your kneecaps, palms toward the
dog. Say “Come cuddle,” and give the dog nice pets with all four furry
feet on the ground. Teach the dog to do this with other people by using
a helper you simply instruct to put hands at knees, call the dog, and
pet. At the same time, you'll tell the dog "Go cuddle." Soon the dog will
automatically go to knees for petting! This great solution happens because
you use body language to ask for what you want.
When you can observe your dog interacting peacefully with another
dog, seeing the way dogs react to each other’s body language will help
you learn what they mean by it. Here again, look for the good, not the
bad. Look for the ways dogs calm each other, solicit play, and communicate
other positive messages.
If you watch dogs interact with a goal of deciding whose “fault”
something is, chances are you will decide incorrectly. The dog who
winds up on top when two dogs have a noisy discussion may be a highly
responsible pack member maintaining good discipline so that dogs don’t
get hurt. Preventing the dog from doing this important job can actually
have tragic results.
Some people find it irritating to have a dog lick them and
decide it has all kinds of nefarious meanings, including “dominance.”
Licking is used by mother dogs to care for their pups, and it’s used
by pups to ask adult dogs for feedings. Lacking first aid kits, it’s also
used by dogs to clean wounds. We have better means for that, so always
distract your dog away from licking a wound on a person or dog.
Chances are that the dog trying to lick you has nice intentions.
If you don’t wish to be licked, calmly and quietly say something like
“No licking” while you hold the dog’s head just out of reach of being
able to lick you. Soon you’ll only need to say it or even just to shrug
back or tuck away the part of your body the dog is trying to lick out
of reach. For the dog who obsessively tries to lick, provide a variety
of great toys and make them loads of fun so the dog can use those oral
impulses on toys.
Hear My Body Talk
When you shrug to tuck your ear into your neck (or under the
covers) in telling your dog you don’t wish to be licked right now,
that’s human body language. If you do this calmly, the dog can learn
your "not now" meaning. But done rapidly or combined with other movements
from you, the same movement can tell the dog to lick you, instead. Body
language is modified by the speed, range of motion, and everything else
that's happening at the time it’s given. Like human verbal language, body
language does not always mean the same thing.
It’s amazing that dogs can learn to read us so well, but many
of them become quite good at it when they spend a lot of their time with
humans. You can do a great deal to aid this learning. The more you teach
your dog, the more foundation the dog has to understand new things.
To help a dog focus on the message and not be distracted by
instincts getting triggered, use a calm voice at a low volume. Make
your movements slower and frequently stop. When a dog slows down, the
dog can think better and not react so much without thought. For communication,
you want thinking rather than programmed reactions. Those programmed good
habits are good training, and both humans and dogs need such habits. But
thinking takes your relationship to another level. Eventually your dog
will accurately read your body language at normal speed.
Don’t trick your dog with your body language, unless you’re
playing a game together. Even in play, be careful not to pattern a harmful
behavior, such as developing in your dog the habit of running away
from you. Instead, you run from the dog. Also teach your dog to gently
withdraw the mouth when your skin comes near, rather than playing any
game where the dog grabs a person’s body.
Reward the dog for honest, straightforward, truthful body language
toward you. You need to see what your dog is doing, and scaring the
dog into hiding from you to do it deprives you of opportunities to
teach alternative, acceptable behaviors. Let your dog know it’s okay
to bring you something with body language that asks “May I chew this?”
If the answer is no, thank your dog for the delivery and give
a nice reward. That’s how we get our stuff back and avoid surgeries
or fatalities from things dogs would otherwise hide from us to chew.
Communicating with your dog through body language is like visiting
another world. Sometimes it’s difficult to explain to another human
just what the dog “said.” Surely we sometimes translate incorrectly.
But we keep trying, because we love our dogs and because they thoroughly
fascinate us.
Kathy Diamond Davis is the author of the book Therapy
Dogs: Training Your Dog to Reach Others. Should the training articles
available here or elsewhere not be effective, contact your veterinarian.
Veterinarians not specializing in behavior can eliminate medical causes
of behavior problems. If no medical cause is found, your veterinarian
can refer you to a colleague who specializes in behavior or a local
behaviorist.
Copyright
2006 - 2007 by Kathy Diamond Davis. Used with permission. All rights
reserved.
This work was originally published by Veterinary Information
Network, Inc. (VIN) and is republished with VIN's permission.
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Reading Canine Body Postures
The American
Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals
National
Headquarters - 424 E. 92nd St. - New York, NY 10128-6804 - (212) 876-7700
- www.aspca.org
Midwestern Regional Office - 1717 South Philo Road, Suite 36
- Urbana, IL 61802 - (217) 337-5030
www.napcc.aspca.org
While dogs cannot
speak, they do display their state of mind via their body language. By
taking careful note of ear position, pupil dilation, facial tension (particularly
around the muzzle and forehead), tail carriage and body weight distribution,
an observer can detect whether a dog is relaxed or fearful, or acting
in a submissive or dominant manner toward the observer.
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NEUTRAL RELAXED
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AROUSAL
The dog has been stimulated by something in
his enviroment. When the dog is excited by
something pleasurable, the hackles will be
down and the tail will be carried a little lower
and will loosely wag. The muzzle will be
relaxed and the tongue may be seen. This posture
may be displayed to subordinates in order
to express higher ranking pack position.
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AGGRESSIVE ATTACK
This threatening posture is used to chase
another away or, if need be, to attack in order
to protect possessions, pack or self.
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ACTIVE SUBMISSION
This pacifying posture is used when a dog
acknowledges another dog or human’s higher
social ranking, or to inhibit another’s aggression.
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PASSIVE SUBMISSION
Bellying up indicates surrender, a pacifying
gesture offered to a more dominant or
aggressive individual.
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DEFENSIVE AGGRESSION
When fearful, a dog will give warning signals
to indicate he does not wish to be approached.
If, unheeded, he will bite to protect himself.
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Dog
- to - Dog Communication
When dog
meets dog, they signal their status in relation to each other. Actions
like raising a forepaw, looking away, licking or nudging at the other’s
muzzle or bowing with the forelegs are submissive gestures. Mounting,
raising up stiffly on one’s toes, or placing one’s head over another’s
withers (the place where the neck meets the back) indicate the more dominate
individual of that interaction.
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MATERNAL CORRECTION
A mother dog will discipline a pup with a
quick muzzle grasp. The pup learns to offer
submissive body postures.
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PLAY SOLICITATION
The play bow is a combination of dominant and
submissive gestures. It is offered to invite another
to play or as part of courtship behavior.
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GREETING BEHAVIOR
A submissive dog may greet a more dominant
dog with a muzzle nudge as an appeasement
(pacifying) gesture.
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GREETING
POSTURE
Dogs sniff each other’s genital region when
greeting to gather information on sexual status.
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