“However much I may sympathize with and admire worthy
motives, I am an uncompromising
opponent of violent methods even to serve the noblest of causes.”
... Mohandas K Gandhi
YOU WANT
ME TO DO WHAT?! PUT MY DOG IN A CAGE?!! HOW CRUEL!!
Cruel? NO. Done properly,
crate training can be the answer to many problems faced by dogs and their
owners.
Dogs have a natural instinct that they inherited from their ancestors,
the wolf. Wolves find a small cave, or dig themselves one and this is
where they sleep, rest and just “hang out.” It is home. Providing your
dog with a crate satisfies his desire to den. No one is going to yell
at him for doing something wrong while he is in his crate. No one is going
to step on his tail, trip over him or pull on his ears. It is easier to
teach small children to stay away from the dog while he is in his crate
than it is to yell “LEAVE THE DOG ALONE” every couple of minutes.
FIRST, WHAT IS A CRATE?
A crate is an indoor dog house, with a door. It is big enough for
your dog to easily stand up, turn around and lie down in. This “indoor
dog house” is placed in a much used area of your house such as the living
room or kitchen during the day. At night, the crate should be moved to
an occupied corner of a bedroom. It can be made of plastic, wire, wood
or a combination of all three. It is a place for your dog to relax in when
no one is around to make sure Rover is staying out of trouble. It is your
dog’s space in your house. It is his bed (or room) and sanctuary; it is
his.
WHY CRATE TRAIN?
Many people crate train their dog for the simple reason that the
dog can do no wrong while he is in his crate. Your dog can’t piddle
on the rug, harass the mailman, chew on the furniture, get into the trash
or eat your children’s hamster.
He learns to relax and go to sleep while you are away. This in
effect is teaching him good habits...SLEEP while his family is away.
And while he sleeps, you can go shopping, visit friends, run errands or
take in a movie and not have to worry about what kind of shape the house
is going to be in when you get home. You put your dog in his crate, shut
the door and leave for a few hours, knowing that when you return it will
be a happy reunion and not a one-sided yelling match, with your dog cringing
in the corner.
BUT WHAT
ABOUT EXERCISE? I THOUGHT A DOG NEEDED FREEDOM TO RUN AROUND. WON’T
MY DOG BE CRAMPED IN SUCH SMALL QUARTERS?!
NO. Before putting your dog in his crate each day before you go
to work or go off for a couple of hours to run errands, you will have made
sure he has had a good exercise session with you. Remember, you won’t be
putting your dog there forever. Four or five hours while you go shopping,
or overnight so you can sleep without having to worry about what your
dog is doing is fine.
He will not have to spend every day of life in his crate anyway.
Just until he outgrows that puppy destructive stage, or until you teach
him your household rules or until he adjusts to living with you (especially
in the case if you have adopted a shelter dog). Your dog will actually
enjoy being in crate after you have taught him that it is his “room.”
For longer periods of time (generally anything over eight hours
during the day), your adult dog should be confined to a larger area such
as a completely enclosed dog run along side your house so he has the choice
to eliminate if needed. Ideally if you need to crate your dog during your
work day (5+ hours) then either come home at lunch to let your dog out
for a stretch and elimination; hire a dog walker or pet sitter to come
during the day OR provide a secure area large enough for your dog to eliminate
in and yet sleep or play in the other (i.e. a closed off kitchen area, outside
enclosed dog run or a very secure backyard area). Again, always make sure
your puppy or dog has had a good exercise session with you anytime before
confining them for the day. See our Play and exercise.
THEN WHY
CRATE TRAIN AT ALL? WHY CAN’T I JUST LEAVE MY DOG IN THE YARD ALL THE
TIME?
Because dogs by nature
are pack animals, they are very social. They prefer the company of others
probably more so than humans do. They need to be in the house, even when
you are not there or when you are sleeping and can’t be interacting with
them. They need to feel that they are part of your family “pack” and
that means being in the house (the pack’s den), even though you may
not be in the house. Depriving your dog of that feeling of “belonging”
and of being a part of your family pack can do as much psychological
damage as locking a child in the closet for most of the day. They become
neurotic or psychotic.
Problem behaviors such as digging, barking, chewing and escaping
WILL develop in a dog kept primarily outdoors. Crate training prevents
destructive behaviors when you are not home or can’t supervise the dog
directly when indoors.
If all you want is a backyard fixture, then get yourself a statue.
But, if what you want is a family companion and friend, then get yourself
a dog and let him in the house with you, let him belong.
BUT WON’T HE GET TERRIBLY BORED, BEING LOCKED UP?!!
NO. He will learn to just sleep while you are away. That’s a lot
better than leaving him out where he learns it is fun to chew on the
door, get into the garbage or piddle on the rug (these are all normal
behaviors that ANY dog will exhibit until he is taught how to live WITH
people).
A dog will sleep eighteen hours a day if you let him. And remember
a dog’s version of recreation while you are away often involves destroying
your house or your yard.
Also, it is not as if he must remain in his crate for the rest
of his life; just until they get over the destructive period all dogs
go through when they are young. Or if it’s an older dog in a new home,
just until you, as the owner, feel safe leaving him alone in your house
unconfined.
Many dogs form habits, such as house soiling, that can easily be
changed by crate training. If a dog has formed the habit of urinating
or defecating in the house wherever and whenever he feels like it, then
crate training can teach your dog to hold it until you provide him the
opportunity to go out and to relieve himself. A normal, healthy dog will
try very hard not to urinate or defecate in his crate. To do so would mean
he would have to lay in it. Most dogs prefer to wait until you can return
to let them out.
HOW MANY MONTHS/YEARS SHOULD I USE A CRATE IN MY DOG’S LIFETIME?
It is highly recommended that any newly adopted adult dog be crate
trained until he understands your household rules and has proven to
be trustworthy when left alone for short time periods. For most newly
acquired adult dogs, plan on using the crate regularly (when ever you
are not home or can’t directly supervise the dog) until the dog reaches
at least 1 to 2 years of age or for a minimum of 8 consecutive months if
the dog is past this age. For puppies, plan on using the crate for a minimum
of 1 to 2 years to assure the dog has matured and grown out of the adolescent/destructive
phase that ALL dogs go through. The crate can be used for the rest of
the dog’s life as well; the door tied open so the dog has the choice to
use it or not.
PERHAPS I’LL GIVE IT A TRY. WHERE CAN I GET A CRATE?
Any of the larger pet stores such as PetsMart or Petco.
Crate training is a wonderful thing you can do for your canine
and you!
Crates come in a variety of materials and sizes. Buy one large
enough to accommodate an adult animal even if you have a puppy and simply
section off the crate with cardboard boxes.
The crate should be located indoors in the most used room in the
household.
For nighttime, the crate can be moved to a bedroom.
WHAT KIND OF MONEY ARE WE TALKING ABOUT?
It depends on the size of your dog and where you purchase the crate.
Just remember though, a crate is something your dog will have the rest
of his life. It is his bed, his room, his space in your house. A good
crate will last much longer than your dog will; so don’t worry about
it wearing out!
Also, compare the initial cost of a crate with the cost of destructive
behavior. Shelling out sixty dollars for a new crate is nothing compared
to buying new carpet or a sofa, replacing stereo equipment, relandscaping
your yard, trying to find Rover after he has escaped from your yard or
explaining hamster heaven to your kids!
WHAT SIZE SHOULD I GET?
Your dog’s crate should be big enough for him to easily stand up,
turn around and lie down in. If he piddles in one corner of the crate
then just make it smaller by adding cardboard boxes, bricks or a wire barrier.
As he gets the idea that the toilet is outdoors, then you can take the
barriers out of crate and let him have a “king sized” room.
WHAT ABOUT
PUPPIES — I DON’T WANT TO KEEP BUYING CRATES AS MY PUPPY GROWS BIGGER!
Right. You should guesstimate what size your puppy will be as an
adult (breed books will be able to help you with this, providing you
know what breed or mixture of breeds your puppy is) and buy a crate that
will be big enough for him as an adult dog. Then you put cardboard boxes
or a wire divider in one end to make the crate smaller. As your puppy grows,
you gradually increase his “living space” in the crate by getting smaller
boxes or moving the wire divider.
If you have an adult dog already, take him with you to the pet
store to size him for the crate. Just stand your dog next to the crate
(don’t scare him by shoving him in!). The top of the crate should extend
three to four inches above his shoulders. The end of the crate should be
about three to four inches from your dog’s rump. If in doubt, buy larger
as you can always make the crate smaller with a wire divider or piling
boxes in the back of it.
WHAT’S THE BEST KIND OF CRATE TO BUY?
Plastic is probably the best, although metal crates have the advantage
of folding up for storage and metal crates allow for better air circulation.
If you have a heavy coated dog, pick a crate with better air circulation
as you can always cover the crate with a blanket if it is too cold. Remember
though, that a dog will want his crate door left open so he can go in
and out as he pleases after he has outgrown the initial purpose of the
crate. So, the fact that metal crates can fold up when they are not in
use may not be a good reason to purchase that kind of crate. Plastic is
easier to clean and does not squeak and rattle like metal does when the
dog moves around inside. You can make your own crate out of wood, but wood
is difficult to keep clean and some dogs like to chew on wood anyway! Some
brand names of plastic crates are: Vari-Kennel, Kennel Aire, Kennel Cab
and Sky Kennel.
ONCE I HAVE THE CRATE, WHERE DO I PUT IT?
Your dog’s crate should be placed in the most often used room in
the house during the day. The living room, the family room, the kitchen,
wherever your family spends the most time. At night, especially if you
have a puppy, the crate should be moved to a corner of an occupied bedroom.
This helps the puppy sleep at night (being in the same room with their
“person”), helps the pup bond to the family and helps with housetraining
as you will know when the pup needs to go outside.
OK, SO NOW I HAVE A CRATE. HOW DO I TEACH MY DOG THAT THIS IS
HIS ROOM?
At first most dogs resent being confined because they feel you
have left them and are not coming back. However, given some time to adjust,
your dog will soon learn to love his crate and the security and privacy
that goes along with it. Try feeding your dog his meals with the door tied
open the first week or two and intermittently hiding special goodies in
the crate. You want your dog to keep going back and checking out the crate
in hopes he may find something good in it.
Crate Training
the 8-12 week-old Puppy
Young puppies have very small bladders
and cannot control them very well. They have to eliminate much more often
than older puppies or adult dogs. To have a successful crate training
program, follow the guidelines below.
Place a cardboard box or some other material in the crate to allow
the puppy only enough room to lie down and turn around. An old blanket
or towel can be placed in the remainder of the crate as the puppy’s
bed (WARNING: do not give your puppy an expensive blanket or pet bed;
all puppies are destructive! Give them something old so if they chew it
up, you won’t be angry!). The crate should be located in a bedroom so if
the pup wakes up in the middle of the night, you can take him outside quickly.
Most puppies that have had access to their crates from beginning have no
complaints. The first time they are shut in, they may cry a little, but ignore
them and soon they will give up and go to sleep. A three-month-old puppy
can usually spend an entire night without having to relieve himself, as long
as he did his business right before going to bed and he has not had any water
at least two hours before bedtime.
The general rule of thumb is that during the day, a puppy can hold
off elimination for as many hours as he is in months of age. For example,
if you have an 8-week-old puppy then never make him spend more than two
hours in the crate during the day without a toilet break.
If you must leave your puppy unattended for longer time periods
during the day, then leave the crate door open so your puppy has access
to his bed (crate) and a small area right outside the crate door allowing
for a “bathroom spot” outside of his crate. The kitchen is a great choice
as it will be easy to clean up any accidents. You may line his “bathroom
area” with newspapers for easy clean up but you will NOT rely on this method
for training. The papers are there for easy clean up for you BUT not to
deliberately teach the puppy to go on them. Make sure the barricade is
sturdy enough to prevent the puppy from climbing out and relieving himself
in an inappropriate spot. This “bathroom spot” should not be a large area;
usually two feet square is plenty of room. When you are home, the papers
should be put away and you should be taking the puppy outdoors on regular
intervals to toilet.
Paper training your puppy is not recommended as it does confuse
the pup. House training should mean that the dog NEVER eliminates in the
house. Paper training a pup is telling him it is OK to eliminate in the
house so we do NOT recommend using papers unless it is absolutely unavoidable.
See the house training section for more information on the correct way
to house train your puppy. DO NOT LET YOUR PUPPY OUT WHEN HE IS CRYING
RIGHT AFTER YOU HAVE SHUT THE DOOR (the exception to this is if you have
forgotten to take him out to do his business first before locking him in).
If you let your puppy out while he is crying, you will have taught him that
crying gets his way (emotional blackmail!). Always wait until your puppy
is quiet before you let him out of his crate. Another solution for over-vocalization
while in the crate is to cover the crate with a lightweight sheet or
towel. Many dogs will give up within minutes if they cannot see you. The
only other exception to this is when you first get up in the morning (or
you have been gone longer than 2 hours) and your puppy is probably “loaded”
and needs to go out immediately. Take him out right away. Also if you have
been gone during the day for any length of time, you want to take your young
puppy out and immediately upon your arrival home. As your puppy physically
matures and gains bladder and bowel control, you can expect him to “hold
it” longer. A rough gauge of how long your puppy can hold it during the
day is how ever many months your puppy is in age is equal to how many hours
he can hold it safely in the daytime. So if your puppy is four months old,
he can probably hold it safely for four hours at a stretch during the daytime
and so on.
**Do keep in mind that diet changes and medications can affect
how long a dog can “hold it”. Digestive upsets can cause your dog to
use the toilet much more often. Certain types of medications can increase
water consumption, which again can cause a dog to eliminate much more
often than normal. Always ask your veterinarian about the effects medications
may have on your dog. **
Your puppy’s crate should only contain an old towel, a special
chew item such as a stuffed Kong toy or stuffed sterilized beef bone.
Do not leave food or water in the crate with your puppy. The crate should
be located INDOORS so the pup is safe from the weather, scary noises
or teasing from neighbors.
You can teach your puppy to enter his crate upon cue. Read the
section on crate training the adult dog to find out how.
Crate Training the 5 month-old
Puppy and Adult Dog
Although crate training the older
puppy or adult dog is not as easy as a young puppy, it can still be done
with less hassle than would be expected. Most dogs resent being confined
at first, but soon learn to love and enjoy the security their crate provides.
Patience, persistence, some small yummy treats your dog enjoys
and a good set of earplugs are the only requirements to begin crate
training. The first step is to let your dog investigate the crate with
the door securely tied open. Throw his favorite toy or one of his treats
just inside the lip of the crate and watch what happens. As soon as your
dog goes in after the treat or toy, praise enthusiastically with a happy
tone of voice (do not try to shut the door at this point). Keep tossing
the treats or toy into the crate so your dog has to go further in each
time. Remember to praise as your dog goes IN the crate. Ignore him once
he steps out of the crate. Keep this up until your dog quickly and easily
goes into the crate whenever you toss his toy or treat into the very back
of the crate. Next try putting his food dish in the crate so if he wants
to eat he has to go in. DO NOT TRY TO CLOSE THE DOOR JUST YET. At this point
you are still trying to build confidence in your dog that this indoor doghouse
is his and will not “eat” him. This procedure may take a few minutes to
a week or more. Throughout the day, hide treats in the crate when your dog
is not watching. You want to teach your dog to investigate the crate often
during the day.
The next step is to repeat the above but each time your dog goes
in his crate, say a cue word such as “GO TO BED,” “KENNEL,” “CRATE,”
“ZONE OUT,” “CHILL OUT,” etc. in a happy tone of voice. It does not matter
what words you say, the important point is you say the SAME words each
time you play the crate game with him. For him to learn a verbal cue such
as “KENNEL” may take up to fifty repetitions or more, so you may want to
split this into several training sessions spread out over a couple of days.
The next step is to actually shut him in the crate. Do not shut
your dog in the crate until he is easily going in and out of the crate
without any hesitation or fear. Give his cue such as “KENNEL,” and as
soon as he goes in, give him a special chew toy (like a stuffed Kong or
a nice rawhide bone) or feed him his meal and quietly shut the door. Be
ready for the verbal onslaught! Stay in the same room for a few minutes and
then when your dog is quiet for 20 consecutive seconds, open the crate door
and let him out. If your dog accepts being in the crate quietly right from
the get-to, then make sure you reward him with quiet praise and some treats
pushed through the door as well.
If your dog is being very vocal first try ignoring him for 20 minutes
straight. If he continues past 20 minutes then quickly rap on the top
of the crate while you give the verbal cue “QUIET.” Wait until he is quiet
for a minute or two, give him a treat, wait another couple of minutes and
THEN let him out while he is still quiet. Again wait for several minutes
of silence BEFORE YOU LET HIM OUT. This is where the persistence and perseverance
part comes in. The more consistent, firm and unyielding to his complaints
you are, the faster your dog will crate train. On the flip side, make sure
you praise your dog when he is calm and quiet as well as slipping him an
occasional treat while he is in the crate.
Another solution for over-vocalization while in the crate is to
cover the crate with a lightweight sheet or towel. Many dogs will give
up within minutes if they cannot see you.
Practice the above five or six times a day, each time increasing
the time your dog has to spend in his crate by five minutes each time
you try it. Try moving into a different room when he is in his crate.
Be ready to ignore your dog if he is whining. By the time you reach up
to forty minutes, your dog can safely be let in his crate for several hours
at a stretch. Leave him for an hour or two inside his crate while you watch
TV or clean house. Let him feel secure that he will not be left in there
forever, that he will be let out eventually and that you are not going to
go away and forget about him forever. Just make sure he has been exercised
heavily, has eliminated first and gets his special chewy toy when he goes
in his crate for longer periods.
OK, IT SOUNDS
LIKE A CRATE WOULD HELP ME. ANY OTHER TIPS TO MAKE IT SUCCESSFUL?
You can make the crate more successful by always acting “happy”
around the crate, making sure your dog is VERY tired if he has to spend
more than an hour in the crate and making sure your pet always gets a high
value stuffed Kong (a Kong stuffed with steak, chicken, turkey, hot dogs,
etc.) to work on when he is in the crate. Do make sure that all your children
understand that once the dog is in the crate, not to bother him (except
to give him a treat if he is being calm & quiet of course!)
***Do keep in mind that diet changes and medications can affect
how long a dog can “hold it”. Digestive upsets can cause your dog to use
the toilet much more often. Certain types of medications can increase
water consumption, which again can cause a dog to eliminate much more
often than normal. Always ask your veterinarian about the effects medications
may have on your dog. ***
ARE THERE
ANY OTHER ADVANTAGES TO HAVING A CRATE TRAINED DOG ...BESIDES THE HOUSEBREAKING
PART?
Well, a dog that feels secure in his crate is much easier to take
on long trips than a dog that is left to jump excitedly around the inside
of the car. Your dog does not get hit by falling camping gear, and is
much safer should an accident occur.
Hotels or motels are much more willing to allow dogs to stay if
you bring your dog’s crate, plus the maid isn’t likely to accidentally
let your dog loose into the streets of a strange city should your dog be
crated while you are out.
Dogs being shipped by plane or train feel much more secure and
can handle the stress of traveling much easier if they have their own
crate to travel in. Federal law requires that animals must be in crates
when shipped by air or train.
OK, IT SOUNDS
LIKE CRATE TRAINING IS AN EXCELLENT IDEA, BUT TELL ME, SHOULD EVERYONE
CRATE TRAIN THEIR DOG?
Not necessarily, but if you are considering crate training as a
method of housebreaking, you should ask yourself these questions:
Do you find yourself constantly punishing your dog for the same
misbehaviors?
Is your dog spending more and more time outside and less and less
time with the family because of destructive or uncontrollable behavior?
Do you have children under the age of ten in your household? Is
the once placid Rover now becoming snappish or too rough with your kids?
Are you declining dinner invitations and only scheduling errands
when you know someone else will be home to make sure the dog doesn’t
destroy the house while you are gone?
Does your dog think his name is “BAD DOG?”
If you answered YES to any of these questions, then perhaps you
should think more seriously about crate training. Even if you have none
of these problems, crate training is a nice thing to do for your dog.
Dogs love their crates. Plus you are preventing your dog from developing
unwanted behaviors such as chewing and digging.
So give it a try. You have nothing to loose and everything to gain.
Crate training is one approach to housetraining and the prevention of
destructive behaviors.
RECOMMENDED READING:
The Power of Positive Training
Pat Miller
Howell Books, 2001
|
The Dog Whisperer
Paul Owens
Adams Media Corp., 1999
|
Quick Clicks
Mandy Book & Cheryl Smith
Legacy By Mail, 2001
|
Copyright © Ahimsa Rescue Foundation 2003 - 2007
No reprints or copies without expressed, written permission
reprinted with kind permission from Teresa L. Morton, Ahimsa Rescue
Founder
http://www.ahimsarescuefoundation.org
*******************
CRATING:
TRAINING OR TORTURE?
From The Akita Club
The scenario is familiar
to most dog owners: an adorable puppy is bought because it is so cute,
so cuddly, so adorable... Then it starts to grow...and grow... and grow...
and so, too, does its appetite. It graduates from free feeding in its
early days to four regular meals a day, then three meals a day, and then
(if it's a larger breed) two meals.
It's little needle teeth are soon replaced by adult TEETH! Big, pretty
and white. And sharp! And soon it starts supplementing its diet with
such tasty morsels as: the couch, an end table the corner of which is
just the right height from the floor to allow it to fit neatly into the
corner of Poochie's mouth, making it perfect dental floss for the molars.Those
new drapes are great for play-attacking, as are those hand-made throw
pillows.And, aaahh Lord, those really terrific feathers! I mean, are ththe
greatest, or what?
Soon, tender expressions of family love are replaced by apoplectic
wild-eyed screaming, once gently stroking hands become flailing weapons
with but one intent: to grab Poochie and knock him cold! Human feet that
once tip-toed across the room so as not to waken sleeping baby Poochie("Look,
he's asleep. Isn't he a darlin' little guy? Couldn't you just hug him
to pieces?") now attempt to kick Poochie right through closed doors or
a wall.
Banished, screamed at, ignored, confined to whatever tiny space contains
the least valuable of family possessions, allowed to be with the family
only after being read the riot act and under threat of instant death,
Poochie continues to grow: from cute puppy to gangly, discombobulated
clumsy puppyhood to young adult, not quite understanding what the fuss
is all about. So he begins to plot his revenge, and one night while all
is silent in the house he makes his move.
Reveille, and all hands are up and about, with daddy headed for the
kitchen for his coffee, when the first whiff of eau d'poo assails the nostrils.
By the end of this day, or this week at most, Poochie is history with this
family. And with him goes all the anger, the destruction, the weird behavior
that caused such frustration and despair to his once loving owners, all
of it is gone! Out, damned dog! And don't ever mention "dog" in this house
again!
Poochie, of course, is salvageable and if he's lucky, really lucky,
he'll end up with a Breed Rescue organization or in a no-kill shelter.
And maybe, just maybe, he'll be adopted by a more understanding new owner
who will take Poochie home and CRATE him until he's properly re-socialized,
house-broken, and trained until he understands what is needed of him and
is steady in his performance.
The above tale of woe could have had a happier ending if Poochie's
original owners had crate trained him from the start. House breaking
would have been swifter, with steadier results. Destructive behavior would
have been nipped in the bud, before it had time to become a pleasurable
(and hard to break) diversion for the pup. It all boils down to one important
point: if you keep a constant watch on Poochie, you can catch and correct
him whenever he thinks he'd like to... whatever! If you can't watch him
because you (had to go to the toilet, answer the phone, stir the pot,
go to the store, etc), then pop him into his crate! When you get back
from???? he'll still be there, alive, chewing his rawhide, standing with
his front feet in his water bowl and a grin on his face, or (most likely
)asleep. Unless, of course, you went shopping in another country, and
the above mentioned toilet was on American Airlines. Then, by time you gotback
to Poochie he'd again be history and you'd be under arrest!
Many people have an unfounded but understandable aversion to crating
a dog. It's inhumane, they say: cruel and
unusual punishment. How could you put Poochie into something that's
no bigger than a bread-box, no better than a jail, and keep him there?
You ought to be reported (investigated; horse-whipped; wrapped in barbed
wire and rolled down a long hill; boiled in oil; denied permission to ever
own another dog, prevented from having children..oh, heck, the list is
endless!), they say. When pressed for their solution to Poochie's behavior
they reel off a whole list o fimprobable suggestions, including the ever
popular and totally disgusting and cruel "...rub his nose in it!". Now
I ask you, is beating with the hand or a stick or rolled paper, chaining
to a tree in the backyard, locking up in the laundry room, putting into
the basement, confining to the outdoors never to lay at the foot of his
master's or mistresses bed at night, better than a few weeks of crate training?
That's right. A few weeks... Not the rest of his life. Not day in
and day out, being released only for food and a quick trip to the nearest
tree before being confined again. Crating is nothing more than a training
aid that helps prevent problems before they start. It will help in quickly
breaking habits before they become ingrained in the nature of the beast.And
if you do it with intelligence, with real conviction, and with love, Poochie
isn't going to look unkindly upon it. Remember, canines are"cave-dwellers"
by nature. In the wild they build dens and lairs, or inhabit natural caves.
In your house a dog will often lay beneath a table or in the corner of the
room, or (as my male does) on the first landing of the stairs where it is
dark and protected on three sides! Properly introduced to a crate early in
life Poochie will quickly look upon it as its own safety zone, its cave if
you will, and will retreat to it at appropriate times or on command. For
example, I have a friend who has two children (one a toddler) and three dogs:
two Akitas and a miniature poodle. He introduced the Akitas to crating the
day after he had run to the local grocery store for milk, leaving the dogs
asleep on the living room floor. He was gone fifteen minutes at most, but
he returned to find the couch shredded! Totally shredded; I mean, down to
the frame, folks! A brand new $1200 couch... that was as close as those dogs
ever came to dying, for he was literally going to take those youngsters out
and shoot them. But wife and children came to the dog's defence, and reason
prevailed. I loaned him two of my crates until he could buy his own, the
couch was repaired to the tune of seven hundred dollars and he went to the
local pet store and spent eighty bucks for a couple of crates to replace my
loaners. Today, those two fully grown Akitas respond to the quietly spoken
command "Crate" by getting into their respective "cave", laying down and
going to sleep, even though there is no longer any reason to continue to
crate them. The doors of the crates are left open; they are now used simply
as a means to get the animals out from under foot during house cleaning
or dinner parties.
Look at the economics involved: Ninety bucks or less for a crate,
or five hundred bucks to repair damage to the house or its furnishings?
The answer to that, of course, is obvious. Look at the peace of mind involved:
when you cannot keep an eye on young Poochie because (bathroom, the phone,
guest for coffee and a chat, the store... ) into the crate-- No! substitute
the word LAIR for crate and it might be easier for you to accept-- and
close the door. When you get back to your pet he'll still be there, alive
and well and ready for "walkie-walkies".
OKAY, I'M CONVINCED! WHAT DO I DO?
1. Consider what size this little fella will attain at maturity,
and pickout a crate that will accommodate the dog when full grown. An adult
dogshould be able to stand erect in the crate, and turn around in it without
being cramped. If you make an error in judgement as to size, better it
be too large than too small. Consider the distance between the bars of
thecage: they should not be more than two inches apart or the pup could
very well wedge its head through them. Remember, the initial cost will be
repaid you with peace of mind beyond value. There are two types of crate
available: the travel crate, which is enclosed on all sides except thefront
which is a wire grid door; or, (the type I prefer) wire-grid open all around,
with a sliding pan type removable floor, which
affords the dog unrestricted visibility. Both types are portable,
of course, with the open-grid type having the added convenience of disassembly
if you want to break it down and carry it in the trunk of your car, for
example.Whichever you choose, once you get it home set it up nicely for
the pup. Apiece of carpet cut to size for the floor of the crate (you can
get remnants from your local carpet store) will make it cozy inside. Put it
in a location that will be convenient for you to keep an eye on, and where
Poochie can keep an eye on you. In my own case, I had one in the livingroom
and one in the bedroom so my pal could always be close to me but under control
in those areas where we normally hang out and relax...and thus allow me to
relax!
2. In the wild, the pup is introduced to the concept of "cave"
by being born into it. Later, a change of location is introduced by the
bitch when she carries her litter to their new home. You, too, must introduce
Poochie to its new home. Make it as pleasant as you can: put toys in
there; feed the dog in the crate, leaving the door open so he can get
to his food whenever he wants to eat; coax the pup inside, quietly close
the door, and play with it through the bars. After a while walk quietly
away and leave him alone. If he yodels and yells, ignore it or correct
it with the usual "No! Quiet! Phooey!".
NEVER, EVER,
USE THE CRATE FOR PUNISHMENT NOR IN SUCH A WAY THE PUP PERCEIVES BEING
IN THE CRATE AS PUNISHMENT!
This canno tbe over-emphasized: if you want "Poo" to accept that
crate as his own, as safe refuge, refrain from hitting him then throwing
him in it and slamming the door shut with anger. For example, your attention
wandered from the pup because you had to attend to supper cooking on the
stove. In the meantime, Poo discovered that some houseplants taste great
and have all this really terrific dirt in them that makes SUCH a nice contrast
with the newly cleaned white carpet. When you discover Poo's discovery,
discipline on the spot, but do NOT express your displeasure by sticking
him into the crate with a show of exasperation. Clean up the mess, continuing
to verbalize your displeasure (What a bad dog! Shame! Phooey!); Poo will
most likely retreat to the crate without prompting, in order to find refugefrom
your anger. If so, great! He's doing just what you want him to do: accept
the confinement of the crate as his safe haven. If not, after you calm down,
coax him into the crate, or gently place him there, and close the door.
Remember, his transgression was YOUR fault for you failed to follow one
of the basic tenets of crating: If you cannot keep the pup under constant
observation, even for so short a period as it takes to stir the soup, put
him into the crate!
3. As an aid to housebreaking, the crate really shines as
an investment. Just keep in mind the following general principal of pups
and what they eat/drink: whatever Poochie stuffs into its face will sooner
or later reappear at the other end of him, usually within thirty to forty-five
minutes later! AND... an animal will rarely if ever foul where it lives
or sleeps! If it does foul its crate, it's your fault because you miscalculated
his ability to "hold it in". This is a given, and this is what makes housebreaking
possible! It's just an extension of Poo's natural instinct, i.e. to dump
outside the home. Given the pups undeveloped bladder/bowel control, you
have to help him along. EXACTLY THE SAME AS TOILET TRAINING HUMAN CHILDREN!!
Therefore, you should be prepared to walk Poochie thirty minutes to an
hour after he eats, and immediately after a play session in the house and
before you put him into the crate.
This was my routine: in the evening, around eight o'clock, food was
pickedup and put aside, Seiko (my Akita male) was released outside to his
established "spot" for toilet. Leashed, we'd walk a ways letting him sniff
and snuffle here and there, then return home. Play, groom, hang-out, then
a quick trip outside to his spot before putting him back into the crate.
While we were hanging out together, if the phone rang, into the crate!
Taking a shower, into the crate. Run next door for a chat, into... You
get the idea, right? At ten I picked up the water bowl (regardless of how
hot the weather was, by the way) and immediately took Seiko outdoors to
his spot. Upon return indoors, I put Seiko into the bedroom crate where he
would watch me preparing for bed. Lights out, and thereafter any complaint
from Seiko was reprimanded quietly.
Reveille at 0530; Seiko was released from the crate and immediately
takento his outdoor spot where he would sniff and snuffle to his hearts
content while I sipped at my coffee and enjoyed the early morning calm.
As soon as he finished his toilet I'd make a small party for him, celebrating
his great intelligence at dumping in all the right places. Back into the
house, he'd have breakfast as I had mine. Then he went back into his crate
so I could finish my normal morning routine. Throughout the day his routine
never changed: Period of play; outdoors for toilet; into the crate; out of
the crate and immediately outdoors for toilet; period of play; outdoors for
toilet; into the crate. Within three weeks, Seiko would immediately head
for the door as soon as I released him from the crate andwait impatiently
for me to let him out for "peepee/Kaka". Quickly onto a regular feeding schedule
(early AM and early evening), his routine was soon established and adhered
to.
Seiko has never had an "accident" in the house, nor has he ever put
his teeth into anything I didn't give him to chew! Neither has his main
squeeze "Kiku" nor their son "Ichiban". Thanks to crating, I've rarely
had to punish any of them for unchecked indiscretions. So now, on those
rare occasions when I do correct or discipline for some infraction, my displeasure
is vented verbally and the disapproval in my voice makes them much more
regretful than beating or banishment ever could.
Once you have embarked upon the crate-training journey, and have
over comethe pet-store-puppy-in-a-cage image conjured up by seeing cute
little Poochie behind bars, then remain consistent in your routine and
methods.It boils down to a very basic routine: From crate to outdoors to
play to outdoors and back to crate; then start all over again. Soon enough
Poo will make it to the front door without prompting from you; he'll play
withyou until he's tired and will then wander into his DEN, flop down and
goto sleep without having to be coaxed, or even run to the front door
and ask to go out. He'll even go into his den on command (Poo... crate!)
without fuss or nonsense. Within two or three months you will have achieved
more with your little pal than non-crating friends with their dogs who,
if they bought their pup the same time you bought yours, are by now probably
into punching, kicking, screaming at or isolating their uncontrolled,
thus less well-behaved pets. You will never regret your decision to give
crating a try! And crating will have no adverse effect upon the dog. It
isn't cruel and inhumane treatment. With your own peace of mind (no more
coming home from the grocery store wondering "...what the hell the dog got
into this time...") will come a more relaxed and loving attitude towards
your dog, and a happier and more understanding eager to please attitude
from good old Poo.