“However much I may sympathize with and admire
worthy motives, I am an uncompromising
opponent of violent methods even to serve the noblest of
causes.” ... Mohandas K Gandhi
YOU
WANT
ME TO DO WHAT?! PUT MY DOG IN A CAGE?!! HOW CRUEL!!
Cruel? NO. Done properly,
crate training can be the answer to many problems faced by dogs and
their owners.
Dogs have a natural instinct that they inherited from their ancestors,
the wolf. Wolves find a small cave, or dig themselves one and this is
where they sleep, rest and just “hang out.” It is home. Providing your
dog with a crate satisfies his desire to den. No one is going to yell
at him for doing something wrong while he is in his crate. No one is
going to step on his tail, trip over him or pull on his ears. It is
easier to
teach small children to stay away from the dog while he is in his crate
than it is to yell “LEAVE THE DOG ALONE” every couple of minutes.
FIRST, WHAT IS A CRATE?
A crate is an indoor dog house, with a door. It is big enough for your
dog to easily stand up, turn around and lie down in. This “indoor dog
house” is placed in a much used area of your house such as the living
room or kitchen during the day. At night, the crate should be moved to
an occupied corner of a bedroom. It can be made of plastic, wire, wood
or a combination of all three. It is a place for your dog to relax in
when no one is around to make sure Rover is staying out of trouble. It
is your dog’s space in your house. It is his bed (or room) and
sanctuary; it is
his.
WHY CRATE TRAIN?
Many people crate train their dog for the simple reason that the dog
can do no wrong while he is in his crate. Your dog can’t piddle
on the rug, harass the mailman, chew on the furniture, get into the
trash
or eat your children’s hamster.
He learns to relax and go to sleep while you are away. This in
effect is teaching him good habits...SLEEP while his family is away.
And while he sleeps, you can go shopping, visit friends, run errands or
take in a movie and not have to worry about what kind of shape the
house
is going to be in when you get home. You put your dog in his crate,
shut
the door and leave for a few hours, knowing that when you return it
will
be a happy reunion and not a one-sided yelling match, with your dog
cringing
in the corner.
BUT
WHAT ABOUT EXERCISE? I THOUGHT A DOG NEEDED FREEDOM TO RUN AROUND.
WON’T
MY DOG BE CRAMPED IN SUCH SMALL QUARTERS?!
NO. Before putting your dog in his crate each day before you go to work
or go off for a couple of hours to run errands, you will have made sure
he has had a good exercise session with you. Remember, you won’t be
putting your dog there forever. Four or five hours while you go
shopping, or overnight so you can sleep without having to worry about
what your dog is doing is fine.
He will not have to spend every day of life in his crate anyway. Just
until he outgrows that puppy destructive stage, or until you teach him
your household rules or until he adjusts to living with you (especially
in the case if you have adopted a shelter dog). Your dog will actually
enjoy being in crate after you have taught him that it is his “room.”
For longer periods of time (generally anything over eight hours during
the day), your adult dog should be confined to a larger area such as a
completely enclosed dog run along side your house so he has the choice
to eliminate if needed. Ideally if you need to crate your dog during
your work day (5+ hours) then either come home at lunch to let your dog
out
for a stretch and elimination; hire a dog walker or pet sitter to come
during the day OR provide a secure area large enough for your dog to
eliminate
in and yet sleep or play in the other (i.e. a closed off kitchen area,
outside enclosed dog run or a very secure backyard area). Again, always
make sure your puppy or dog has had a good exercise session with you
anytime before confining them for the day. See our Play and exercise.
THEN
WHY CRATE TRAIN AT ALL? WHY CAN’T I JUST LEAVE MY DOG IN THE YARD ALL
THE TIME?
Because dogs by nature
are pack animals, they are very social. They prefer the company of
others
probably more so than humans do. They need to be in the house, even
when
you are not there or when you are sleeping and can’t be interacting
with
them. They need to feel that they are part of your family “pack” and
that means being in the house (the pack’s den), even though you may
not be in the house. Depriving your dog of that feeling of “belonging”
and of being a part of your family pack can do as much psychological
damage as locking a child in the closet for most of the day. They
become neurotic or psychotic.
Problem behaviors such as digging, barking, chewing and escaping WILL
develop in a dog kept primarily outdoors. Crate training prevents
destructive behaviors when you are not home or can’t supervise the dog
directly when indoors.
If all you want is a backyard fixture, then get yourself a statue. But,
if what you want is a family companion and friend, then get yourself a
dog and let him in the house with you, let him belong.
BUT WON’T HE GET TERRIBLY BORED, BEING LOCKED UP?!!
NO. He will learn to just sleep while you are away. That’s a lot better
than leaving him out where he learns it is fun to chew on the
door, get into the garbage or piddle on the rug (these are all normal
behaviors that ANY dog will exhibit until he is taught how to live WITH
people).
A dog will sleep eighteen hours a day if you let him. And remember a
dog’s version of recreation while you are away often involves
destroying your house or your yard.
Also, it is not as if he must remain in his crate for the rest
of his life; just until they get over the destructive period all dogs
go through when they are young. Or if it’s an older dog in a new home,
just until you, as the owner, feel safe leaving him alone in your house
unconfined.
Many dogs form habits, such as house soiling, that can easily be
changed by crate training. If a dog has formed the habit of urinating
or defecating in the house wherever and whenever he feels like it, then
crate training can teach your dog to hold it until you provide him the
opportunity to go out and to relieve himself. A normal, healthy dog
will try very hard not to urinate or defecate in his crate. To do so
would mean he would have to lay in it. Most dogs prefer to wait until
you can return to let them out.
HOW MANY MONTHS/YEARS SHOULD I USE A CRATE IN MY DOG’S LIFETIME?
It is highly recommended that any newly adopted adult dog be crate
trained until he understands your household rules and has proven to
be trustworthy when left alone for short time periods. For most newly
acquired adult dogs, plan on using the crate regularly (when ever you
are not home or can’t directly supervise the dog) until the dog reaches
at least 1 to 2 years of age or for a minimum of 8 consecutive months
if
the dog is past this age. For puppies, plan on using the crate for a
minimum
of 1 to 2 years to assure the dog has matured and grown out of the
adolescent/destructive phase that ALL dogs go through. The crate can be
used for the rest of
the dog’s life as well; the door tied open so the dog has the choice to
use it or not.
PERHAPS I’LL GIVE IT A TRY. WHERE CAN I GET A CRATE?
Any of the larger pet stores such as PetsMart or Petco.
Crate training is a wonderful thing you can do for your canine
and you!
Crates come in a variety of materials and sizes. Buy one large
enough to accommodate an adult animal even if you have a puppy and
simply
section off the crate with cardboard boxes.
The crate should be located indoors in the most used room in the
household.
For nighttime, the crate can be moved to a bedroom.
WHAT KIND OF MONEY ARE WE TALKING ABOUT?
It depends on the size of your dog and where you purchase the crate.
Just remember though, a crate is something your dog will have the rest
of his life. It is his bed, his room, his space in your house. A good
crate will last much longer than your dog will; so don’t worry about
it wearing out!
Also, compare the initial cost of a crate with the cost of destructive
behavior. Shelling out sixty dollars for a new crate is nothing
compared to buying new carpet or a sofa, replacing stereo equipment,
relandscaping your yard, trying to find Rover after he has escaped from
your yard or explaining hamster heaven to your kids!
WHAT SIZE SHOULD I GET?
Your dog’s crate should be big enough for him to easily stand up, turn
around and lie down in. If he piddles in one corner of the crate then
just make it smaller by adding cardboard boxes, bricks or a wire
barrier. As he gets the idea that the toilet is outdoors, then you can
take the
barriers out of crate and let him have a “king sized” room.
WHAT
ABOUT PUPPIES — I DON’T WANT TO KEEP BUYING CRATES AS MY PUPPY GROWS
BIGGER!
Right. You should guesstimate what size your puppy will be as an adult
(breed books will be able to help you with this, providing you
know what breed or mixture of breeds your puppy is) and buy a crate
that
will be big enough for him as an adult dog. Then you put cardboard
boxes
or a wire divider in one end to make the crate smaller. As your puppy
grows, you gradually increase his “living space” in the crate by
getting smaller boxes or moving the wire divider.
If you have an adult dog already, take him with you to the pet
store to size him for the crate. Just stand your dog next to the crate
(don’t scare him by shoving him in!). The top of the crate should
extend
three to four inches above his shoulders. The end of the crate should
be
about three to four inches from your dog’s rump. If in doubt, buy
larger
as you can always make the crate smaller with a wire divider or piling
boxes in the back of it.
WHAT’S THE BEST KIND OF CRATE TO BUY?
Plastic is probably the best, although metal crates have the advantage
of folding up for storage and metal crates allow for better air
circulation. If you have a heavy coated dog, pick a crate with better
air circulation as you can always cover the crate with a blanket if it
is too cold. Remember though, that a dog will want his crate door left
open so he can go in and out as he pleases after he has outgrown the
initial purpose of the crate. So, the fact that metal crates can fold
up when they are not in use may not be a good reason to purchase that
kind of crate. Plastic is easier to clean and does not squeak and
rattle like metal does when the dog moves around inside. You can make
your own crate out of wood, but wood is difficult to keep clean and
some dogs like to chew on wood anyway! Some brand names of plastic
crates are: Vari-Kennel, Kennel Aire, Kennel Cab
and Sky Kennel.
ONCE I HAVE THE CRATE, WHERE DO I PUT IT?
Your dog’s crate should be placed in the most often used room in the
house during the day. The living room, the family room, the kitchen,
wherever your family spends the most time. At night, especially if you
have a puppy, the crate should be moved to a corner of an occupied
bedroom. This helps the puppy sleep at night (being in the same room
with their
“person”), helps the pup bond to the family and helps with
housetraining
as you will know when the pup needs to go outside.
OK, SO NOW I HAVE A CRATE. HOW DO I TEACH MY DOG THAT THIS IS HIS
ROOM?
At first most dogs resent being confined because they feel you
have left them and are not coming back. However, given some time to
adjust, your dog will soon learn to love his crate and the security and
privacy that goes along with it. Try feeding your dog his meals with
the door tied open the first week or two and intermittently hiding
special goodies in the crate. You want your dog to keep going back and
checking out the crate in hopes he may find something good in it.
Crate
Training
the 8-12 week-old Puppy
Young puppies have very small
bladders
and cannot control them very well. They have to eliminate much more
often
than older puppies or adult dogs. To have a successful crate training
program, follow the guidelines below.
Place a cardboard box or some other material in the crate to allow the
puppy only enough room to lie down and turn around. An old blanket or
towel can be placed in the remainder of the crate as the puppy’s
bed (WARNING: do not give your puppy an expensive blanket or pet bed;
all puppies are destructive! Give them something old so if they chew it
up, you won’t be angry!). The crate should be located in a bedroom so
if
the pup wakes up in the middle of the night, you can take him outside
quickly. Most puppies that have had access to their crates from
beginning have no
complaints. The first time they are shut in, they may cry a little, but
ignore
them and soon they will give up and go to sleep. A three-month-old
puppy
can usually spend an entire night without having to relieve himself, as
long
as he did his business right before going to bed and he has not had any
water
at least two hours before bedtime.
The general rule of thumb is that during the day, a puppy can hold off
elimination for as many hours as he is in months of age. For example,
if you have an 8-week-old puppy then never make him spend more than two
hours in the crate during the day without a toilet break.
If you must leave your puppy unattended for longer time periods during
the day, then leave the crate door open so your puppy has access to his
bed (crate) and a small area right outside the crate door allowing for
a “bathroom spot” outside of his crate. The kitchen is a great choice
as it will be easy to clean up any accidents. You may line his
“bathroom area” with newspapers for easy clean up but you will NOT rely
on this method for training. The papers are there for easy clean up for
you BUT not to deliberately teach the puppy to go on them. Make sure
the barricade is
sturdy enough to prevent the puppy from climbing out and relieving
himself
in an inappropriate spot. This “bathroom spot” should not be a large
area;
usually two feet square is plenty of room. When you are home, the
papers
should be put away and you should be taking the puppy outdoors on
regular
intervals to toilet.
Paper training your puppy is not recommended as it does confuse the
pup. House training should mean that the dog NEVER eliminates in the
house. Paper training a pup is telling him it is OK to eliminate in the
house so we do NOT recommend using papers unless it is absolutely
unavoidable. See the house training section for more information on the
correct way
to house train your puppy. DO NOT LET YOUR PUPPY OUT WHEN HE IS CRYING
RIGHT AFTER YOU HAVE SHUT THE DOOR (the exception to this is if you
have
forgotten to take him out to do his business first before locking him
in).
If you let your puppy out while he is crying, you will have taught him
that
crying gets his way (emotional blackmail!). Always wait until your
puppy
is quiet before you let him out of his crate. Another solution for
over-vocalization
while in the crate is to cover the crate with a lightweight sheet or
towel. Many dogs will give up within minutes if they cannot see you.
The
only other exception to this is when you first get up in the morning
(or
you have been gone longer than 2 hours) and your puppy is probably
“loaded”
and needs to go out immediately. Take him out right away. Also if you
have
been gone during the day for any length of time, you want to take your
young
puppy out and immediately upon your arrival home. As your puppy
physically
matures and gains bladder and bowel control, you can expect him to
“hold
it” longer. A rough gauge of how long your puppy can hold it during the
day is how ever many months your puppy is in age is equal to how many
hours
he can hold it safely in the daytime. So if your puppy is four months
old,
he can probably hold it safely for four hours at a stretch during the
daytime
and so on.
**Do keep in mind that diet changes and medications can affect
how long a dog can “hold it”. Digestive upsets can cause your dog to
use the toilet much more often. Certain types of medications can
increase
water consumption, which again can cause a dog to eliminate much more
often than normal. Always ask your veterinarian about the effects
medications may have on your dog. **
Your puppy’s crate should only contain an old towel, a special
chew item such as a stuffed Kong toy or stuffed sterilized beef bone.
Do not leave food or water in the crate with your puppy. The crate
should
be located INDOORS so the pup is safe from the weather, scary noises
or teasing from neighbors.
You can teach your puppy to enter his crate upon cue. Read the
section on crate training the adult dog to find out how.
Crate Training the 5
month-old
Puppy and Adult Dog
Although crate training the
older
puppy or adult dog is not as easy as a young puppy, it can still be
done
with less hassle than would be expected. Most dogs resent being
confined
at first, but soon learn to love and enjoy the security their crate
provides.
Patience, persistence, some small yummy treats your dog enjoys
and a good set of earplugs are the only requirements to begin crate
training. The first step is to let your dog investigate the crate with
the door securely tied open. Throw his favorite toy or one of his
treats
just inside the lip of the crate and watch what happens. As soon as
your
dog goes in after the treat or toy, praise enthusiastically with a
happy
tone of voice (do not try to shut the door at this point). Keep tossing
the treats or toy into the crate so your dog has to go further in each
time. Remember to praise as your dog goes IN the crate. Ignore him once
he steps out of the crate. Keep this up until your dog quickly and
easily
goes into the crate whenever you toss his toy or treat into the very
back
of the crate. Next try putting his food dish in the crate so if he
wants
to eat he has to go in. DO NOT TRY TO CLOSE THE DOOR JUST YET. At this
point
you are still trying to build confidence in your dog that this indoor
doghouse
is his and will not “eat” him. This procedure may take a few minutes to
a week or more. Throughout the day, hide treats in the crate when your
dog
is not watching. You want to teach your dog to investigate the crate
often
during the day.
The next step is to repeat the above but each time your dog goes in his
crate, say a cue word such as “GO TO BED,” “KENNEL,” “CRATE,”
“ZONE OUT,” “CHILL OUT,” etc. in a happy tone of voice. It does not
matter what words you say, the important point is you say the SAME
words each time you play the crate game with him. For him to learn a
verbal cue such as “KENNEL” may take up to fifty repetitions or more,
so you may want to split this into several training sessions spread out
over a couple of days.
The next step is to actually shut him in the crate. Do not shut your
dog in the crate until he is easily going in and out of the crate
without any hesitation or fear. Give his cue such as “KENNEL,” and as
soon as he goes in, give him a special chew toy (like a stuffed Kong or
a nice rawhide bone) or feed him his meal and quietly shut the door. Be
ready for the verbal onslaught! Stay in the same room for a few minutes
and
then when your dog is quiet for 20 consecutive seconds, open the crate
door
and let him out. If your dog accepts being in the crate quietly right
from
the get-to, then make sure you reward him with quiet praise and some
treats
pushed through the door as well.
If your dog is being very vocal first try ignoring him for 20 minutes
straight. If he continues past 20 minutes then quickly rap on the top
of the crate while you give the verbal cue “QUIET.” Wait until he is
quiet for a minute or two, give him a treat, wait another couple of
minutes and THEN let him out while he is still quiet. Again wait for
several minutes of silence BEFORE YOU LET HIM OUT. This is where the
persistence and perseverance part comes in. The more consistent, firm
and unyielding to his complaints you are, the faster your dog will
crate train. On the flip side, make sure you praise your dog when he is
calm and quiet as well as slipping him an occasional treat while he is
in the crate.
Another solution for over-vocalization while in the crate is to cover
the crate with a lightweight sheet or towel. Many dogs will give up
within minutes if they cannot see you.
Practice the above five or six times a day, each time increasing the
time your dog has to spend in his crate by five minutes each time you
try it. Try moving into a different room when he is in his crate.
Be ready to ignore your dog if he is whining. By the time you reach up
to forty minutes, your dog can safely be let in his crate for several
hours
at a stretch. Leave him for an hour or two inside his crate while you
watch
TV or clean house. Let him feel secure that he will not be left in
there
forever, that he will be let out eventually and that you are not going
to
go away and forget about him forever. Just make sure he has been
exercised
heavily, has eliminated first and gets his special chewy toy when he
goes
in his crate for longer periods.
OK, IT
SOUNDS LIKE A CRATE WOULD HELP ME. ANY OTHER TIPS TO MAKE IT SUCCESSFUL?
You can make the crate more successful by always acting “happy” around
the crate, making sure your dog is VERY tired if he has to spend more
than an hour in the crate and making sure your pet always gets a high
value stuffed Kong (a Kong stuffed with steak, chicken, turkey, hot
dogs,
etc.) to work on when he is in the crate. Do make sure that all your
children understand that once the dog is in the crate, not to bother
him (except to give him a treat if he is being calm & quiet of
course!)
***Do keep in mind that diet changes and medications can affect how
long a dog can “hold it”. Digestive upsets can cause your dog to use
the toilet much more often. Certain types of medications can increase
water consumption, which again can cause a dog to eliminate much more
often than normal. Always ask your veterinarian about the effects
medications may have on your dog. ***
ARE
THERE ANY OTHER ADVANTAGES TO HAVING A CRATE TRAINED DOG ...BESIDES THE
HOUSEBREAKING PART?
Well, a dog that feels secure in his crate is much easier to take on
long trips than a dog that is left to jump excitedly around the inside
of the car. Your dog does not get hit by falling camping gear, and is
much safer should an accident occur.
Hotels or motels are much more willing to allow dogs to stay if you
bring your dog’s crate, plus the maid isn’t likely to accidentally let
your dog loose into the streets of a strange city should your dog be
crated while you are out.
Dogs being shipped by plane or train feel much more secure and
can handle the stress of traveling much easier if they have their own
crate to travel in. Federal law requires that animals must be in crates
when shipped by air or train.
OK, IT
SOUNDS LIKE CRATE TRAINING IS AN EXCELLENT IDEA, BUT TELL ME, SHOULD
EVERYONE CRATE TRAIN THEIR DOG?
Not necessarily, but if you are considering crate training as a method
of housebreaking, you should ask yourself these questions:
Do you find yourself constantly punishing your dog for the same
misbehaviors?
Is your dog spending more and more time outside and less and less time
with the family because of destructive or uncontrollable behavior?
Do you have children under the age of ten in your household? Is the
once placid Rover now becoming snappish or too rough with your kids?
Are you declining dinner invitations and only scheduling errands when
you know someone else will be home to make sure the dog doesn’t
destroy the house while you are gone?
Does your dog think his name is “BAD DOG?”
If you answered YES to any of these questions, then perhaps you should
think more seriously about crate training. Even if you have none of
these problems, crate training is a nice thing to do for your dog. Dogs
love their crates. Plus you are preventing your dog from developing
unwanted behaviors such as chewing and digging.
So give it a try. You have nothing to loose and everything to gain.
Crate training is one approach to housetraining and the prevention of
destructive behaviors.
RECOMMENDED READING:
The
Power of Positive Training
Pat Miller
Howell Books, 2001
|
The
Dog Whisperer
Paul Owens
Adams Media Corp., 1999
|
Quick
Clicks
Mandy Book & Cheryl Smith
Legacy By Mail, 2001
|
Copyright © Ahimsa Rescue Foundation 2003 -
2007
No reprints or copies without expressed, written permission
reprinted with kind permission from Teresa L. Morton, Ahimsa Rescue
Founder
http://www.ahimsarescuefoundation.org
*******************
CRATING:
TRAINING OR TORTURE?
From The Akita Club
The scenario is
familiar to most dog owners: an adorable puppy is bought because it is
so cute, so cuddly, so adorable... Then it starts to grow...and grow...
and grow... and so, too, does its appetite. It graduates from free
feeding in its
early days to four regular meals a day, then three meals a day, and
then
(if it's a larger breed) two meals.
It's little needle teeth are soon replaced by adult TEETH! Big, pretty
and white. And sharp! And soon it starts supplementing its diet with
such tasty morsels as: the couch, an end table the corner of which is
just the right height from the floor to allow it to fit neatly into the
corner of Poochie's mouth, making it perfect dental floss for the
molars.Those
new drapes are great for play-attacking, as are those hand-made throw
pillows.And, aaahh Lord, those really terrific feathers! I mean, are
ththe
greatest, or what?
Soon, tender expressions of family love are replaced by apoplectic
wild-eyed screaming, once gently stroking hands become flailing weapons
with but one intent: to grab Poochie and knock him cold! Human feet
that once tip-toed across the room so as not to waken sleeping baby
Poochie("Look, he's asleep. Isn't he a darlin' little guy? Couldn't you
just hug him
to pieces?") now attempt to kick Poochie right through closed doors or
a wall.
Banished, screamed at, ignored, confined to whatever tiny space
contains the least valuable of family possessions, allowed to be with
the family only after being read the riot act and under threat of
instant death,
Poochie continues to grow: from cute puppy to gangly, discombobulated
clumsy puppyhood to young adult, not quite understanding what the fuss
is all about. So he begins to plot his revenge, and one night while all
is silent in the house he makes his move.
Reveille, and all hands are up and about, with daddy headed for the
kitchen for his coffee, when the first whiff of eau d'poo assails the
nostrils. By the end of this day, or this week at most, Poochie is
history with this family. And with him goes all the anger, the
destruction, the weird behavior that caused such frustration and
despair to his once loving owners, all
of it is gone! Out, damned dog! And don't ever mention "dog" in this
house
again!
Poochie, of course, is salvageable and if he's lucky, really lucky,
he'll end up with a Breed Rescue organization or in a no-kill shelter.
And maybe, just maybe, he'll be adopted by a more understanding new
owner who will take Poochie home and CRATE him until he's properly
re-socialized, house-broken, and trained until he understands what is
needed of him and is steady in his performance.
The above tale of woe could have had a happier ending if Poochie's
original owners had crate trained him from the start. House breaking
would have been swifter, with steadier results. Destructive behavior
would
have been nipped in the bud, before it had time to become a pleasurable
(and hard to break) diversion for the pup. It all boils down to one
important point: if you keep a constant watch on Poochie, you can catch
and correct him whenever he thinks he'd like to... whatever! If you
can't watch him because you (had to go to the toilet, answer the phone,
stir the pot,
go to the store, etc), then pop him into his crate! When you get back
from???? he'll still be there, alive, chewing his rawhide, standing
with
his front feet in his water bowl and a grin on his face, or (most
likely
)asleep. Unless, of course, you went shopping in another country, and
the above mentioned toilet was on American Airlines. Then, by time you
gotback
to Poochie he'd again be history and you'd be under arrest!
Many people have an unfounded but understandable aversion to crating a
dog. It's inhumane, they say: cruel and
unusual punishment. How could
you put Poochie into something that's no bigger than a bread-box, no
better than a jail, and keep him there?
You ought to be reported (investigated; horse-whipped; wrapped in
barbed
wire and rolled down a long hill; boiled in oil; denied permission to
ever
own another dog, prevented from having children..oh, heck, the list is
endless!), they say. When pressed for their solution to Poochie's
behavior
they reel off a whole list o fimprobable suggestions, including the
ever
popular and totally disgusting and cruel "...rub his nose in it!". Now
I ask you, is beating with the hand or a stick or rolled paper,
chaining
to a tree in the backyard, locking up in the laundry room, putting into
the basement, confining to the outdoors never to lay at the foot of his
master's or mistresses bed at night, better than a few weeks of crate
training?
That's right. A few weeks... Not the rest of his life. Not day in and
day out, being released only for food and a quick trip to the nearest
tree before being confined again. Crating is nothing more than a
training aid that helps prevent problems before they start. It will
help in quickly breaking habits before they become ingrained in the
nature of the beast.And if you do it with intelligence, with real
conviction, and with love, Poochie isn't going to look unkindly upon
it. Remember, canines are"cave-dwellers" by nature. In the wild they
build dens and lairs, or inhabit natural caves. In your house a dog
will often lay beneath a table or in the corner of the room, or (as my
male does) on the first landing of the stairs where it is dark and
protected on three sides! Properly introduced to a crate early in life
Poochie will quickly look upon it as its own safety zone, its cave if
you will, and will retreat to it at appropriate times or on command.
For
example, I have a friend who has two children (one a toddler) and three
dogs:
two Akitas and a miniature poodle. He introduced the Akitas to crating
the
day after he had run to the local grocery store for milk, leaving the
dogs
asleep on the living room floor. He was gone fifteen minutes at most,
but
he returned to find the couch shredded! Totally shredded; I mean, down
to
the frame, folks! A brand new $1200 couch... that was as close as those
dogs
ever came to dying, for he was literally going to take those youngsters
out
and shoot them. But wife and children came to the dog's defence, and
reason
prevailed. I loaned him two of my crates until he could buy his own,
the
couch was repaired to the tune of seven hundred dollars and he went to
the
local pet store and spent eighty bucks for a couple of crates to
replace my
loaners. Today, those two fully grown Akitas respond to the quietly
spoken command "Crate" by getting into their respective "cave", laying
down and going to sleep, even though there is no longer any reason to
continue to crate them. The doors of the crates are left open; they are
now used simply as a means to get the animals out from under foot
during house cleaning or dinner parties.
Look at the economics involved: Ninety bucks or less for a crate, or
five hundred bucks to repair damage to the house or its furnishings?
The answer to that, of course, is obvious. Look at the peace of mind
involved: when you cannot keep an eye on young Poochie because
(bathroom, the phone, guest for coffee and a chat, the store... ) into
the crate-- No! substitute the word LAIR for crate and it might be
easier for you to accept-- and
close the door. When you get back to your pet he'll still be there,
alive
and well and ready for "walkie-walkies".
OKAY, I'M CONVINCED! WHAT DO I DO?
1. Consider what size this little fella will attain at maturity,
and pickout a crate that will accommodate the dog when full grown. An
adult dogshould be able to stand erect in the crate, and turn around in
it without being cramped. If you make an error in judgement as to size,
better it
be too large than too small. Consider the distance between the bars of
thecage: they should not be more than two inches apart or the pup could
very well wedge its head through them. Remember, the initial cost will
be
repaid you with peace of mind beyond value. There are two types of
crate
available: the travel crate, which is enclosed on all sides except
thefront
which is a wire grid door; or, (the type I prefer) wire-grid open all
around,
with a sliding pan type removable floor, which
affords the dog
unrestricted visibility. Both types are portable, of course, with the
open-grid type having the added convenience of disassembly if you want
to break it down and carry it in the trunk of your car, for
example.Whichever you choose, once you get it home set it up nicely for
the pup. Apiece of carpet cut to size for the floor of the crate (you
can get remnants from your local carpet store) will make it cozy
inside. Put it
in a location that will be convenient for you to keep an eye on, and
where Poochie can keep an eye on you. In my own case, I had one in the
livingroom and one in the bedroom so my pal could always be close to me
but under control in those areas where we normally hang out and
relax...and thus allow me to relax!
2. In the wild, the pup is introduced to the concept of "cave"
by being born into it. Later, a change of location is introduced by the
bitch when she carries her litter to their new home. You, too, must
introduce Poochie to its new home. Make it as pleasant as you can: put
toys in
there; feed the dog in the crate, leaving the door open so he can get
to his food whenever he wants to eat; coax the pup inside, quietly
close
the door, and play with it through the bars. After a while walk quietly
away and leave him alone. If he yodels and yells, ignore it or correct
it with the usual "No! Quiet! Phooey!".
NEVER,
EVER, USE THE CRATE FOR PUNISHMENT NOR IN SUCH A WAY THE PUP PERCEIVES
BEING IN THE CRATE AS PUNISHMENT!
This canno tbe over-emphasized: if you want "Poo" to accept that
crate as his own, as safe refuge, refrain from hitting him then
throwing
him in it and slamming the door shut with anger. For example, your
attention wandered from the pup because you had to attend to supper
cooking on the stove. In the meantime, Poo discovered that some
houseplants taste great and have all this really terrific dirt in them
that makes SUCH a nice contrast with the newly cleaned white carpet.
When you discover Poo's discovery,
discipline on the spot, but do NOT express your displeasure by sticking
him into the crate with a show of exasperation. Clean up the mess,
continuing
to verbalize your displeasure (What a bad dog! Shame! Phooey!); Poo
will
most likely retreat to the crate without prompting, in order to find
refugefrom
your anger. If so, great! He's doing just what you want him to do:
accept
the confinement of the crate as his safe haven. If not, after you calm
down, coax him into the crate, or gently place him there, and close the
door. Remember, his transgression was YOUR fault for you failed to
follow one
of the basic tenets of crating: If you cannot keep the pup under
constant
observation, even for so short a period as it takes to stir the soup,
put
him into the crate!
3. As an aid to housebreaking, the crate really shines as
an investment. Just keep in mind the following general principal of
pups and what they eat/drink: whatever Poochie stuffs into its face
will sooner or later reappear at the other end of him, usually within
thirty to forty-five minutes later! AND... an animal will rarely if
ever foul where it lives or sleeps! If it does foul its crate, it's
your fault because you miscalculated his ability to "hold it in". This
is a given, and this is what makes housebreaking possible! It's just an
extension of Poo's natural instinct, i.e. to dump outside the home.
Given the pups undeveloped bladder/bowel control, you have to help him
along. EXACTLY THE SAME AS TOILET TRAINING HUMAN CHILDREN!! Therefore,
you should be prepared to walk Poochie thirty minutes to an hour after
he eats, and immediately after a play session in the house and before
you put him into the crate.
This was my routine: in the evening, around eight o'clock, food was
pickedup and put aside, Seiko (my Akita male) was released outside to
his established "spot" for toilet. Leashed, we'd walk a ways letting
him sniff and snuffle here and there, then return home. Play, groom,
hang-out, then a quick trip outside to his spot before putting him back
into the crate. While we were hanging out together, if the phone rang,
into the crate!
Taking a shower, into the crate. Run next door for a chat, into... You
get the idea, right? At ten I picked up the water bowl (regardless of
how
hot the weather was, by the way) and immediately took Seiko outdoors to
his spot. Upon return indoors, I put Seiko into the bedroom crate where
he
would watch me preparing for bed. Lights out, and thereafter any
complaint from Seiko was reprimanded quietly.
Reveille at 0530; Seiko was released from the crate and immediately
takento his outdoor spot where he would sniff and snuffle to his hearts
content while I sipped at my coffee and enjoyed the early morning calm.
As soon as he finished his toilet I'd make a small party for him,
celebrating his great intelligence at dumping in all the right places.
Back into the house, he'd have breakfast as I had mine. Then he went
back into his crate so I could finish my normal morning routine.
Throughout the day his routine never changed: Period of play; outdoors
for toilet; into the crate; out of the crate and immediately outdoors
for toilet; period of play; outdoors for toilet; into the crate. Within
three weeks, Seiko would immediately head
for the door as soon as I released him from the crate andwait
impatiently for me to let him out for "peepee/Kaka". Quickly onto a
regular feeding schedule (early AM and early evening), his routine was
soon established and adhered to.
Seiko has never had an "accident" in the house, nor has he ever put his
teeth into anything I didn't give him to chew! Neither has his main
squeeze "Kiku" nor their son "Ichiban". Thanks to crating, I've rarely
had to punish any of them for unchecked indiscretions. So now, on those
rare occasions when I do correct or discipline for some infraction, my
displeasure is vented verbally and the disapproval in my voice makes
them much more regretful than beating or banishment ever could.
Once you have embarked upon the crate-training journey, and have
over comethe pet-store-puppy-in-a-cage image conjured up by seeing cute
little Poochie behind bars, then remain consistent in your routine and
methods.It boils down to a very basic routine: From crate to outdoors
to
play to outdoors and back to crate; then start all over again. Soon
enough
Poo will make it to the front door without prompting from you; he'll
play
withyou until he's tired and will then wander into his DEN, flop down
and
goto sleep without having to be coaxed, or even run to the front door
and ask to go out. He'll even go into his den on command (Poo...
crate!)
without fuss or nonsense. Within two or three months you will have
achieved
more with your little pal than non-crating friends with their dogs who,
if they bought their pup the same time you bought yours, are by now
probably
into punching, kicking, screaming at or isolating their uncontrolled,
thus less well-behaved pets. You will never regret your decision to
give
crating a try! And crating will have no adverse effect upon the dog. It
isn't cruel and inhumane treatment. With your own peace of mind (no
more
coming home from the grocery store wondering "...what the hell the dog
got
into this time...") will come a more relaxed and loving attitude
towards
your dog, and a happier and more understanding eager to please attitude
from good old Poo.
Stan Rawlinson 2005
