dogsneed

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WHO'S IN CHARGE HERE?

A lesson in becoming Alpha

Vicki Rodenberg De Gruy

"My dog just tried to bite me! All I did was tell him to move over so I could sit on the couch next to him."

"My dog got into the trash can and when I scolded her, she growled at me. What's wrong with her? I thought she loved me!"

"Our dog is very affectionate most of the time but when we try to make him do something he doesn't want to do, he snaps at us."

What do these three dogs have in common? Are they nasty or downright vicious? No - they're "alpha". They've taken over the leadership of the families that love them. Instead of taking orders from their people, these dogs are giving orders! Your dog can love you very much and still try to dominate you or other members of your family.

Dogs are social creatures and believers in social order. A dog's social system is a "pack" with a well-defined pecking order. The leader of the pack is the alpha, supreme boss, Top Dog. He (or she) gets the best of everything - the best food, the best place to sleep, the best toy, etc. The leader also gets to be first in everything - he gets to eat first, to leave first and to get attention first. All the other dogs in the pack respect the alpha dog's wishes. Any dog that challenges the alpha's authority gets a swift physical reminder of just where his place in the pack really is.

Your family is your dog's "pack". Many dogs fit easily into the lower levels of their human pack's pecking order and don't make waves. They do what they're told and don't challenge authority. Other dogs don't fit in quite as well. Some of them are natural born leaders and are always challenging their human alpha's. Other dogs are social climbers - they're always looking for ways to get a little closer to the top of the family ladder. These natural leaders and the social climbers can become problems to an unsuspecting family that's not aware of the dog's natural pack instincts.

Some families encourage their dogs to take over the "pack" without realizing it. They treat their dogs as equals, not as subordinates. They give them special privileges like being allowed to sleep on the bed or couch. They don't train their dogs and let them get away with disobeying commands. In a real dog pack, no one but the alpha dog would get this kind of treatment. Alpha doesn't have anything to do with size. The tiniest Chihuahua can be a canine Hitler. In fact, the smaller the dog, the more people tend to baby them and cater to them - making the dog feel even more dominant and in control of his humans.

Alpha dogs often seem to make good pets. They're confident, smarter than average, and affectionate. They can be wonderful with children and good with strangers. Everything seems to be great with the relationship - until someone crosses him or makes him do something he doesn't want to do. Then, suddenly, this wonderful dog growls or tries to bite someone and no one understands why.

In a real dog pack, the alpha dog doesn't have to answer to anyone. No one gives him orders or tells him what to do. The other dogs in the pack respect his position. If another dog is foolish enough to challenge the alpha by trying to take his bone or his favorite sleeping place, the alpha dog will quickly put him in his place with a hard stare or a growl. If this doesn't work, the alpha dog will enforce his leadership with his teeth. This is all natural, instinctive behavior - in a dog's world. In a human family, though, this behavior is unacceptable and dangerous.

Dogs need and want leaders. They have an instinctive need to fit into a pack. They want the security of knowing their place and what's expected of them. Most of them don't want to be alpha - they want someone else to give the orders and make the decisions. If his humans don't provide that leadership, the dog will take over the role himself. If you've allowed your dog to become alpha, you're at his mercy and as a leader, he may be either a benevolent king or a tyrant!

If you think your dog is alpha in your household, he probably is. If your dog respects only one or two members of the family but dominates the others, you still have a problem. The dog's place should be at the -bottom- of your human family's pack order, not at the top or somewhere in between.

In order to reclaim your family's rightful place as leaders of the pack, your dog needs some lessons in how to be a subordinate, not an equal. You're going to show him what it means to be a dog again. Your dog's mother showed him very early in life that -she- was alpha and that he had to respect her. As a puppy, he was given a secure place in his litter's pack and because of that security, he was free to concentrate on growing, learning, playing, loving and just being a dog. Your dog doesn't really want the responsibility of being alpha, having to make the decisions and defend his position at the top. He wants a leader to follow and worship so he can have the freedom of just being a dog again.

How to become leader of your pack
Your dog watches you constantly and reads your body language. He knows if you're insecure, uncomfortable in a leadership role or won't enforce a command. This behavior confuses him, makes -him- insecure and if he's a natural leader or has a social-climbing personality, it'll encourage him to assume the alpha position and tell -you- what to do.

"Alpha" is an attitude. It involves quiet confidence, dignity, intelligence, an air of authority. A dog can sense this attitude almost immediately - it's how his mother acted towards him. Watch a professional trainer or a good obedience instructor. They stand tall and use their voices and eyes to project the idea that they're capable of getting what they want. They're gentle but firm, loving but tough, all at the same time. Most dogs are immediately submissive towards this type of personality because they recognize and respect alpha when they see it.

Practice being alpha. Stand up straight with your shoulders back. Walk tall. Practice using a new tone of voice, one that's deep and firm. Don't ask your dog to do something - tell him. There's a difference. He knows the difference, too! Remember that, as alpha, you're entitled to make the rules and give the orders. Your dog understands that instinctively.

With most dogs, just this change in your attitude and an obedience training course will be enough to turn things around. With a dog that's already taken over the household and has enforced his position by growling or biting and has been allowed to get away with it, you'll need to do more than just decide to be alpha. The dog is going to need an attitude adjustment as well.

Natural leaders and social climbers aren't going to want to give up their alpha position. Your sudden change in behavior is going to shock and threaten them. Your dog might act even more aggressively than before. An alpha dog will instinctively respond to challenges to his authority. It's his nature to want to put down revolutionary uprisings by the peasants! Don't worry, there's a way around it.

An alpha dog already knows that he can beat you in a physical fight so returning his aggression with violence of your own won't work. Until you've successfully established your position as alpha, corrections like hitting, shaking, or using the "rollover" techniques described in some books will not work and can be downright dangerous to you. An alpha dog will respond to these methods with violence and you could be seriously hurt.

What you need to do is use your brain! You're smarter than he is and you can out think him. You'll also need to be stubborner than he is. What I'm about to describe here is an effective, non-violent method of removing your dog from alpha status and putting him back at the bottom of the family totem pole where he belongs and where he needs to be. In order for this method to work, your whole family has to be involved. It requires an attitude adjustment from everyone and a new way of working with your dog.

This is serious business. A dog that bites or threatens people is a dangerous dog, no matter how much you love him. If treating your dog like a dog and not an equal seems harsh to you, keep in mind that our society no longer tolerates dangerous dogs. Lawsuits from dog bites are now settling for millions of dollars - you could lose your home and everything else you own if your dog injures someone. You or your children could be permanently disfigured. And your dog could lose his life. That's the bottom line.

Canine Boot Camp for Alpha Attitude Adjustment
From this day forward, you're going to teach your dog that he is a dog, not a miniature human being in a furry suit. His mother taught him how to be a dog once and how to take orders. Along the way, through lack of training or misunderstood intentions, he's forgotten. With your help, he's going to remember what he is and how he fits into the world. Before long, he's even going to like it!

Dogs were bred to look to humans for food, companionship and guidance. An alpha dog doesn't ask for what he wants, he demands it. He lets you know in no uncertain terms that he wants his dinner, that he wants to go out, that he wants to play and be petted and that he wants these things right now. You're going to teach him that from now on, he has to earn what he gets. No more free rides. This is going to be a shock to his system at first but you'll be surprised how quickly he'll catch on and that he'll actually become eager to please you.

If your dog doesn't already know the simple command SIT, teach it to him. Reward him with praise and a tidbit. Don't go overboard with the praise. A simple "Good boy!" in a happy voice is enough. Now, every time your dog wants something - his dinner, a trip outside, a walk, some attention, anything - tell him (remember don't ask him, tell him) to SIT first. When he does, praise him with a "Good Boy!", then tell him OKAY and give him whatever it is he wants as a reward. If he refuses to SIT, walk away and ignore him. No SIT, no reward. If you don't think he understands the command, work on his training some more. If he just doesn't want to obey, ignore him - don't give him what he wants or reward him in any fashion.

Make him sit before giving him his dinner, make him sit at the door before going outside, make him sit in front of you to be petted, make him sit before giving him his toy. If you normally leave food out for him all the time, stop. Go to a twice daily feeding and you decide what time of day he'll be fed. Make him sit for his dinner. If he won't obey the command - no dinner. Walk away and ignore him. Bring the food out later and tell him again to SIT. If he understands the command, don't tell him more than once. He heard you the first time. Give commands from a standing position and use a deep, firm tone of voice.

If the dog respects certain members of the family but not others, let the others be the ones to feed him and bring the good things to his life for now. Show them how to make him obey the SIT command and how to walk away and ignore him if he won't do as he's told. It's important that your whole family follows this program. Dogs are like kids - if they can't have their way with Mom, they'll go ask Dad. In your dog's case, if he finds a member of the family that he can dominate, he'll continue to do so. You want your dog to learn that he has to respect and obey everyone. Remember - his place is at the bottom of the totem pole. Bouncing him from the top spot helps but if he thinks he's anywhere in the middle, you're still going to have problems.

Think - you know your dog and know what he's likely to do under most circumstances. Stay a step ahead of him and anticipate his behavior so you can avoid or correct it. If he gets into the trash and growls when scolded, make the trash can inaccessible. If he likes to bolt out the door ahead of you, put a leash on him. Make him sit and wait while you open the door and give him permission - OKAY! - to go out. If your alpha dog doesn't like to come when he's called (and he probably doesn't!), don't let him outside off leash. Without a leash, you have no control over him and he knows it.

Petting and attention:
Alpha dogs are used to being fussed over. In a real dog pack, subordinate dogs are forever touching, licking and grooming the alpha dog. It's a show of respect and submission. For now, until his attitude has shown improvement, cut down on the amount of cuddling your dog gets. When he wants attention, make him SIT first, give him a few kind words and pats, then stop. Go back to whatever it was you were doing and ignore him. If he pesters you, tell him NO! in a firm voice and ignore him some more. Pet him when you want to, not just because he wants you to. Also, for the time being, don't get down on the floor or on your knees to pet your dog. That, too, is a show of submission. Give praise, petting and rewards from a position that's higher than the dog.

Games:
If you or anyone in your family wrestles, rough-houses or plays tug of war with your dog, stop! These games encourage dogs to dominate people physically and to use their teeth. In a dog pack or in a litter, these games are more than just playing - they help to establish pack order based on physical strength. Your dog is already probably stronger and quicker than you are. Rough, physical games prove that to him. He doesn't need to be reminded of it!

Find new games for him to play. Hide & seek, fetch or frisbee catching are more appropriate. Make sure you're the one who starts and ends the game, not the dog. Stop playing before the dog gets bored and is inclined to try to keep the ball or frisbee.

Where does your dog sleep?
Not in your bedroom and especially not on your bed! Your bedroom is a special place - it's your "den". An alpha dog thinks he has a right to sleep in your den because he considers himself your equal. In fact, he may have already taken over your bed, refusing to get off when told or growling and snapping when anyone asks him to make room for the humans. Until your dog's alpha problems are fully under control, the bedroom should be off-limits! The same goes for sleeping on furniture. If you can't keep him off the couch without a fight, deny him access to the room until his behavior and training has improved.

Crate-training:
Dog crates have 1,000 uses and working with an alpha dog is one of them. It's a great place for your dog to sleep at night, to eat in and just to stay in when he needs to chill out and be reminded that he's a dog. The crate is your dog's "den". Start crate training by feeding him his dinner in his crate. Close the door and let him stay there for an hour afterwards. If he throws a tantrum, ignore him. Don't let your dog out of his crate until he's quiet and settled. At bedtime, show him an irresistable goodie, tell him to SIT and when he does, throw the goodie into the crate. When he dives in for the treat, tell him what a good boy he is and close the door.

Graduating from Boot Camp: What's next?
Just like in the army, boot camp is really just an introduction to a new career and new way of doing things. A tour through boot camp isn't going to solve your alpha dog's problems forever. It's a way to get basic respect from a dog who's been bullying you without having to resort to physical force.

How long should boot camp last? That depends on the dog. Some will show an improvement right away, others may take much longer. For really tough cookies, natural leaders that need constant reminders of their place in the pack, Alpha Dog Boot Camp will become a way of life. Social climbers may need periodic trips through boot camp if you get lax and accidentally let them climb back up a notch or two in the family pack order.

How do you know if you're making a difference? If boot camp has been successful, your dog should start looking to you for directions and permission. He'll show an eagerness to please. Watch how your dog approaches and greets you. Does he come to you "standing tall", with his head and ears held high and erect? It may look impressive and proud but it means he's still alpha and you still have problems! A dog who accepts humans as superiors will approach you with his head slightly lowered and his ears back or off to the sides. He'll "shrink" his whole body a little in a show of submission. Watch how he greets all the members of the family. If he displays this submissive posture to some of them, but not others, those are the ones who still need to work on their own alpha posture and methods. They should take him back through another tour of boot camp with support from the rest of the family.

Obedience Training:
Once your dog has begun to accept this new way of life and his new position in the family, you should take him through an obedience course with a qualified trainer. All dogs need to be trained and alpha dogs need training most of all! You don't have to wait until he's through with boot camp to start this training but it's important that he respects at least one member of the family and is willing to take direction from them.

Obedience class teaches you to train your dog. It teaches you how to be alpha, how to enforce commands and rules, how to get respect and to keep it. All family members who are old enough to understand and control the dog should participate in the class.

Obedience training is a lifelong process. One obedience course does not a trained dog make! Obedience commands need to be practiced and incorporated into your daily life. In a dog pack, the alpha animal uses occasional reminders to reinforce his authority. Certain commands, like DOWN/STAY, are especially effective, nonviolent reminders of a dog's place in the family pack order and who's really in charge here.

A well-trained obedient dog is a happy dog and a joy to live with. Dogs want to please and need a job to do. Training gives them the opportunity to do both. A well-trained dog has more freedom. He can go more places and do more things with you because he knows how to behave. A well-trained dog that's secure in his place within the family pack is comfortable and confident. He knows what's expected of him. He knows his limits and who his leaders are. He's free from the responsibility of running the household and making decisions. He's free to be your loving companion and not your boss. He's free to be a dog - what he was born to be and what he always wanted to be in the first place!

When You Need Professional Help
If your dog has already injured you or someone else or if you are afraid of your dog, you should consult with a qualified professional dog trainer or behaviorist before starting Canine Boot Camp. Your dog should also have an exam by your vet to make sure there are no physical causes for his behavior.
To find a qualified trainer or behaviorist near you, contact your veterinarian or the American Kennel Club for a list of obedience training clubs in your area.

This article was written by Vicki Rodenberg De Gruy, Chairman of the Chow Chow Club Inc.'s Welfare Committee. Uploaded with permission from the author, it may be reproduced for non-profit purposes with author's credit given

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A Radical Regime For Recalcitrant Rovers (RRRR)

By Job Michael Evans

Presiding over every wolf pack there is a leader, or Alpha-wolf, which keeps order within the pack. This wolf informs other wolves about their status on a particular day -- about how well they are doing, and about how poorly they are doing. Depending on the Alpha's style of leadership, the role might be that of a dictator or a guide, or the Alpha might adopt either of these roles at different times. All subordinate wolves look to this Alpha for leadership and direction.

Domestication has not nullified in the dog this ardent need to lead or be led. While dogs are light years distant from wolves in some respects, in other matters they still mimic wolves closely -- especially in their need for an Alpha figure to guide them -- and failing the presence of such a guide, the chance to assume the position themselves. For your dog, there should be absolutely no question as to who is the Alpha-figure in its life. You are; or more accurately, you'd better be!

Trainers often express the above theories to their classes and private clients in crude ways that accentuate the "control" the owner must gain to be the "boss." Trainers will often say "Let him know who's boss!" and then hand out a few folklore corrections to whatever problem is at hand. Trouble is, just applying those few corrections--even if they do seem to address the behavior problem at hand--will not, by itself, elevate the wimpy owner to anything approximating Alpha-status in the naughty dog's mind. In fact, the dog might rebel fiercely, getting into a dominance fight with the owner. Or it might correct itself on one set of problems (say, destructive chewing) and substitute another (marking in the house instead of chewing). A few folklore corrections down the pike and the owner is still not Alpha.

Often a more holistic approach to bad behavior is called for--a literal "hit-list" of changes that are imposed on the dog in order to rattle its brains, disturb the status- quo and slot the owner in the starring role as Ms. or Mr. Alpha once and for all. Little things add up--and just as it was probably a plethora of little infractions, little slips, little forms of naughtiness that allowed the situation between dog and owner to deteriorate, it will be a series of little changes and renovations that will bring the relationship back into sync and stop the problem behavior.

No Quick Fixes
If you are the owner of a problem dog, please reflect on the above comments before reading on. You probably would prefer a "quick-fix" solution in this article--just one or two techniques that will cancel whatever behavior problem you are now putting up with from your dog. I must say to you: it's not that easy or that simple. Your problems with your dog,at root, are relational. The dog probably fancies himself the Alpha. Or he doesn't know who is. Or doesn't care. Or doesn't want to know. Whatever the case, you're not it. You might be regarded as a friend, as a companion, as a littermate, as a lover, or as all of the above, but you're not regarded, at least not fully, as the Alpha. To grab that role, you have to take a radical approach to your problem dog. I am going to suggest 20 different ruses you can pull to convince your pushy dog that you are the boss.
This more holistic approach is rather new in dealing with dog behavior problems -- but not totally new. Until rather recently, trainers tended to hand out 1-2-3 remedies to behavioral inquiries, without addressing the underlying malaise that affects the owner/dog relationship. Lately, there have been some heartening efforts toward a more all-encompassing approach that helps owners to identify problems and solve them, and restructure their relationship with the dog. Carol Lea Benjamin's "Alpha Primer" (AKC Gazette, September 1985) is an excellent example of this, as is the chapter on behavior problems in Training Your Dog by Joachim Volhard and Gail Fisher, (Howell Book House, 1984). Both programs are designed to help you up your Alpha-status. My RRRR program (Radical Regime for Recalcitrant Rovers) is simply, with my own personal flourishes--gathered from too many years of experience with too many problem dogs and too many problem owners. I offer my RRRR program to you with my sympathy and support.

Some final tips before the hit-list: don't modify the program, and keep it up until the behavior problem stops. Obviously, act on the behavior problem itself using sensible and humane methods, but add the RRRR program if you are experiencing any of the following:

housetraining problems
destructive chewing
digging
chasing people
chasing cars
jumping up
over-barking
growling/biting
fighting with other dogs
not coming when called
predation

These are all major behavioral problems and they call for a radical approach. Besides specific corrections for the problem, apply the following program for the dog which is exhibiting any of the above problems and apply it today.

Give your dog two obedience sessions a day practicing whatever exercises the dog knows. These sessions should be 10-20 minutes long. Do not praise physically during this session. Use only verbal praise and keep the session moving. Give the commands quickly--dazzle the dog.

Have two formal eye contact sessions with your dogs each day. Problem dogs look at their owners only when they feel like it. Up the eye contact. Practice formally. Put a leash on. Sit the dog. Step around in front and animate the dog saying, "Watch me--I want your attention right now," in a low, growling tone of voice. Do not yell. You want three to five seconds, (not minutes) of locked, sealed eye contact. Once you get this moment, end with light verbal praise.

Have your dog hold one 30-minute down each day. This is very important. These downs can be done during TV shows, dinner, reading, etc. Enforce it! If your dog doesn't know the down, teach it immediately, as well as the stay command. For now, sit on the leash and measure out only as much as the dog needs to hit the dust. If the dog jumps up on you, whip the leash down hard with a "No !" If the dog stress-whines, give the dog a slap under the chin and say "No !" If the dog bites on the leash, whip it diagonally out of its mouth. During this time no petting, no toys, no soothing, no nothing. Long downs make you look Alpha.

Move your dog into the bedroom for overnight sleeping. Read the chapter "Where is Your Dog This Evening?" in How To Be Your Dog's Best Friend by the Monks of New Skete (Little, Brown and Co.). This simple exercise has tremendous bonding effects. Remember--in the bedroom, problem dogs do not belong on beds. You'll look like littermates--you want to be Alpha, remember? If the dog jumps up on the bed, tie the dog to the foot of the bed.

Exercise is very important. Problem dogs usually don't get enough aerobic, sustained exercise, which is what they need to calm them down. Putting the dog out in the backyard for three hours is no solution--he isn't exercising, he's exercising and resting, or just resting--period. Use a leash and jog or run with your dog. Sometimes a bike can be used.Keep moving. A good guide: for a little dog 1/4 mile with no stopping, four times a week; for a medium-size dog 1/2 mile with no stopping, four times a week; and for a large dog 1 mile with no stopping, four times aweek. I'm not even asking you to run with your dog every day. And a mile can go by quite quickly. Obviously, if your veterinarian advises against exercise for your particular dog, you'll have to skip this step.

Whenever you leave home, leave the radio on--easy listening music, not rock or talk shows. Stressed tones of voice usually keep dogs on edge--and talk shows feature people who call in with problems and stresses.
Feed two times a day, if possible in the early morning and the early afternoon. Place the food down and leave it 10-15 minutes. Leave the dog and the food alone in a quiet room. Then, return and pick up the food even if the dog hasn't finished. Do not make a "thing" out of the dog's not eating--you may be engaging in faulty paralanguage and encouraging the dog not to eat even as you try to get it to eat. This method of feeding keeps food in the dog's stomach during its waking hours, eliminating hunger tension and giving you more of a chance for a calmer dog.

Re-evaluate the diet--in my opinion high-quality meat meal-based rations surpass soy-based rations. Drop all "people" food from the dog's diet. The dogs know and it doesn't make you look Alpha. When your dog doesn't have problems, you can slip in some people food but not now. Remember, little things add up -- usually to big problems. And never, ever add anything to the food after you've placed it down--not because you forgot an ingredient, not because you want to encourage the dog to eat. The dog will simply learn to wait until something yummy is added, and again, you won't look Alpha.

Give absolutely no food treats for one month. Yes, that's right, zero treats. Zilch. None. Cold turkey. Owners often place themselves in a subordinate position vis- a-vis the dog by giving too many treats or by giving them in the wrong way. Stop for one month. If your dog's problems clear up and the month has passed, give one treat a day only if the dog sits. Never give a free treat carte blanche--make the dog do something for the treat. But nothing for one month.

Stop petting, stroking or fondling your problem dog for minutes, not to mention hours, at a time. Get your hands off the dog and pet for only seven to ten seconds and only if you've told the dog to "sit" or "down." I know you love your dog, but love isn't enough. If it were, you wouldn't be having the behavior problem you're having. What your dog needs from you now to help him out of his behavioral jam is scratch-type petting, quick and light, not seductive stroking. It would shock most owners, but problem dogs are often pooped from petting--yet they oblige and stay for it because they're addicted to it.

Don't allow the dog to go before you in or out of a door. Make the dog wait by giving the "stay" command, or at least go together. If you allow the dog to barge in or out of the door before you, you're telling him something pretty powerful about who controls the territory. The dog will say, "I do--after all, I always go first and that wimp goes second." If this happens three or four times a day, the dog really gets to stake a claim to the territory he enters first, with ensuing problems. Quick examples: dog is allowed to barge out onto the street and has a problem fighting other dogs. Aren't you setting the stage for the fighting by allowing the barge? Another: dog chews destructively when owner is not home. If you routinely let the dog crash into the house before you, aren't you telegraphing to him that the home is his territory--to chew up, to trash, to "rearrange" at whim? Don't allow the dog to go before you in or out of territory! Again--little things add up, usually to big problems. If that phrase is beginning to sound like a mantra in this article, I'm getting through.

Pick up all the dog's toys and leave one, perhaps his favorite, down. That's all he gets for one month. When a month passes and the problems clear up, add one toy a week.

Stop playing any and all tug-o-war games. When you let go you look subordinate, and you're teaching the dog to bite down hard while in your presence. You're okaying serious mouth play. A no-no for a problem dog. Play only fetch and if the dog doesn't bring the object back to you and release it, get up and walk away.
If you have to have the dog get up and move because he is in the way, make the dog move. Don't refrain from doing something or stepping over the dog because you don't want to bother him. If you're Alpha, you can go where you want when you want. Even if you have to change the channel and your dog is in front of the TV--make him move. Believe me, if you don't, dogs notice. Little things add up.

Resolve to stop yelling at your dog and instead speak in a low tone of voice. If you yell, the dog will learn to wait for you to yell. Change your tonality, not your volume. Most problem dogs are yelled and screamed at. Most have tuned their owners out and learn to wait for louder and louder yelling until they finally don't hear their owners at all. You'll probably find you have to couple a physical correction with your lowered tone of voice to get the dog to tune back to your station on the dial -- Radio Station Alpha. So don't hesitate to use a shake, a swat under the chin or a leash correction if necessary. But stop yelling.

If your dog knows the "down" command--really knows it--pull a "surprise down" on this problem dog once a week. For instance, you're in the kitchen doing dishes and you hear Rover waltz in. Wheel on him, give both the hand and vocal signal and command for "Down!" Recalcitrant Rover will probably look shocked, and then do it. If not, you'll have to enforce it. The surprise element is the key. Remember, just once a week. Each down is a notch on your Alpha-belt, and combined with your daily long downs you'll look like Eva Peron--which is how your dog needs to see you right now.

If your dog is aggressive, immediately employ a qualified private trainer to work with you in your home. Please don't wait. One session can work wonders. The situation could get out of control. It certainly won't get better without training. Your dog is just growling, you say? You're in trouble--big trouble. A growl is a bite that just hasn't connected yet. Don't delude yourself. Call a trainer -- yesterday! Institute the RRRR immediately, even before the trainer gets there to tell you what to do specifically for the aggression. You'll make his task easier if the RRRR is on a roll.

If you have a shy or aggressive dog, neuter the dog right away. Male or female. Right away. Don't breed the dog. The problem could be partially genetic. The spay or neuter operation could help calm the dog and is a card you should play, in my experience, regardless of the age of the dog. The only exception is a very old dog which cannot risk the surgery. Otherwise, in my opinion, this step is merited and could be of great help.

Whatever the problem is, be sure you understand the corrections that are outlined for you by your trainer or in the books you read. Apply those techniques as well as the RRRR. You'll find that instituting the RRRR rarely interferes with specific corrective techniques and almost always aids them in effect. I've had many clients who did nothing about specific problems such as chewing or aggression (usually because they were too busy, too tired, or too scared to act on the problem itself) but did begin the RRRR program--and the problem lessened and in some cases disappeared. I won't promise you that, but you will find the RRRR will greatly aid your specific corrections for whatever problem plagues your dog.

Finally, to balance the harshness of the RRRR program, create a little jingle for your dog. The jingle can be based on a popular television ad, and should be light, lilting and friendly -- sometimes just substituting your dog's name where the product name was in the jingle will achieve the desired effect. Sing the jingle to your dog once a day--even from afar. I've used jingles from McDonald's ads and toothpaste ads. Just sing it out to your dog once a day--and make eye contact--and don't go over 10 seconds.

reprinted with kind permission from Catherine de la Cruz

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Must Speak Dog!

by Rochelle Sundholme

(Disclaimer) This was written to address behaviors people typically encounter with a puppy and how to handle them in a pack leader type fashion. It is not an article meant to indicate my views on obedience type training. This is just how to deal with the nipping, jumping, and mouthing that can escalate into bigger problems.

Do you love when your puppy jumps up and grabs your clothing with his teeth? Do you get a thrill every time he mouths your hand too hard and actually breaks skin? Do you long for the sound of your puppy growling when you try to take a bone from him? Are your children excited when puppy snaps at them when they try to pet him? If these situations are not ones you want to occur more than once or twice, you need to prepare yourself to understand your puppy, and you need to learn to speak dog. If you do not, the sweet little puppy you adopted will very quickly learn he has nothing to fear from you and can do as he pleases. The following information is shared from years of experience with new puppy families. We have found that in the vast majority of cases, issues with a puppy end up being issues with communication and training, not temperamental or personality issues. We are not intending for this information to be harsh or critical, just hoping that families will understand there is a difference between a dominant puppy and a puppy that is lacking in appropriate boundaries and discipline/training. Please note that there are many varied training styles and methods, and every trainer has their own beliefs regarding how a puppy should be trained and corrected. Our training methods will many times mimic what a puppy would experience from an older dog to be respected by the younger of a pack, and the trainer you work with may or may not support our views.

Too many times we hear that families believe they have an “alpha” puppy, when the truth of the matter is the problem isn't with the puppy, the problem is with the people. Families need to understand that all puppies will mouth things, including you. All puppies will likely nip and jump, or growl or snap. Whether or not they do this more than once or twice is up to you. If they continue the behavior, it doesn't mean the puppy is an alpha puppy, it most likely means your correction has not been adequate enough to teach puppy the behavior is unacceptable and will not be tolerated. If he has gotten away with unacceptable behavior more than once or twice, the behavior can and will escalate into a bigger problem, and yes, a sweet little puppy can become a terror very quickly. Again, this does not mean the puppy is alpha, it means you, the owner, has been too lenient and allowed problem behaviors to continue. It is a rare dog that does not respond to correction and training when done appropriately.

Do you understand how dogs communicate? They use body language, physical contact and sound. This is what they know and understand, and this is what you need to understand to communicate with your puppy in the initial correction & training phases. A simple “no” will usually not suffice to make a puppy stop mouthing your hands or nipping your clothes. Saying “no” will not keep your puppy from growling at your child. To communicate in the manner that your puppy will understand, sometimes using physical force or correction is the best way to handle the situation. Don't be afraid to “speak” to your puppy in the way he is designed to understand. It is better for you to find an effective way to correct normal, but inappropriate puppy behaviors than it is to let puppy get away with them. You will seriously regret not being “alpha” enough yourself to teach puppy what you will tolerate and what you will not.

Puppies are incredibly smart. No one has to tell them that your child doesn't hold the same authority or power or ability as an adult. They feel this intuitively. They will not respond to correction from your child like they will an adult, so please don't expect your puppy to take your child seriously. You need to be the one to do the correction and training. You need to supervise activity between a child and a puppy. The most common problems we hear about are ones involving children. There are two reasons for this. One, children usually will handle puppies in ways the puppy does not like to be handled. Two, puppies don't see children as authority figures. When a puppy continually mouths, nips, growls or has another inappropriate behavior toward a child, it is not because puppy is dominant, aggressive or alpha. It is because puppy is doing what they do naturally and trying to establish pack order. If you are allowing your puppy to be with your children unsupervised and problems occur, it is not the puppy's fault, it is yours. You need to help your puppy and child by being close and being aware of what is going on, so you can step in and correct when necessary.

Sweet little puppy growled at my child when he came close and she was chewing on a bone. (Perfect correction & training opportunity. Growling does not mean the puppy is aggressive. Growling means the puppy is communicating her displeasure and attempting to control the situation in the way that dogs were designed and programmed to communicate. Puppy needs to learn that growling at people is not acceptable though.) I immediately went over to puppy and reached for the bone. Puppy growled. I swiftly and sharply smacked her muzzle. She yipped. I took the bone. I offered the bone back to puppy, she lunged for it. I swiftly and sharply smacked her muzzle. She yipped. I offered the bone again. She very carefully took the bone from my hand while watching my face closely. I let puppy chew on the bone for a few minutes, then reached for the bone again. She growled, and the process started over again. The third time I reached for the bone, puppy sat up and moved backwards away from the bone. I took the bone. I praised puppy exuberantly. I gave puppy the bone. Throughout that day and the following days, I purposefully put puppy in this situation so I could train her to understand the appropriate behavior in this situation. I had my child do the same thing. After that initial correction & training, there hasn't been one growl from puppy when we attempt to take food or a bone from her. She was provided correction with enough intensity to show her the behavior was not acceptable and would cause her discomfort if she continued it.

Sweet little puppy jumped up and nipped at my shirt. She jumped up and nipped again, and got my hand. I grabbed the book off the table next to me and when puppy jumped up to nip again, I brought the book down on her head with enough force to scare her but not hurt her. Puppy quickly moved away from me, but watched me closely and kept close. She didn't hate me or feel anger. She knew she'd done something wrong, but still wanted to be close. I told her through physical force I wouldn't tolerate jumping up and nipping and that she'd experience discomfort if she did it. After a few minutes, I invited puppy over and asked her to sit, then gave her lots of pets and love. When I was done, she jumped up in excitement again and nipped, and I had the book ready and once again she felt the book come down on her head. The next time I invited puppy back for a love and I was done petting her, she started to jump up again, then thought twice and sat back down. Lots of praise for puppy this time, and then to distract her from the same routine, I gave her a toy to play with and off she went.

Sweet little puppy was on my lap when she decided she wanted to get mouthy with my hands. As soon as her teeth connected with my hand again, I grabbed her muzzle and held it closed very firmly with a firm shake and strong eye contact. I held this position until she started squirming and was uncomfortable. I let go. Puppy went for my hands again, and once again I quickly grabbed her muzzle with more force this time and held it closed while giving quick shakes to her muzzle. This happened a third time, and I repeated with even more force and a low growl this time. When I released puppy's muzzle, she licked my hands and started using her paws to paw at the air and play with me instead of her teeth on my hands.

The above are examples of how correction and training can work. There are situations when the same type of correction should be not enforced.   For example, if a puppy growls, is it a growl trying to communicate displeasure and attempting to control the situation, or is the puppy growling in fear? If the growl is in fear, reassurance needs to be offered instead of physical correction. You could make the problem worse with physical correction if a growl is indicating fear. Discerning every situation is critical in order to know how to respond, correct or train.

If you are not able to discern what is going on, and correct problem behaviors on your own, and are experiencing the same problems repeatedly, you need to seek help. If the behaviors continue for too long, you can end up with a puppy that does develop issues. This is usually not the puppy's fault. In the vast majority of cases it is an issue with the people for not understanding how to effectively communicate with their puppy. If you do not get the results you expect, get help, and get it sooner than later. Do you speak dog? If not, it's time to learn. If you want a positive and rewarding relationship with your puppy, you must speak dog!

(copyright 2006) reproduced with kind permission from Rochelle Sundholme Spring Creek Labradoodles

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NOTHING IN LIFE IS FREE: GAINING AND MAINTAINING CONTROL HUMANELY

(aka NILIF)

Karen Peak, West Wind Dog Training

http://www.westwinddogtraining.com

Dominance rolls, alpha rolls, harsh corrections in order to gain control of your dog and show him "who calls the shots" are a thing of the past. Instead of force, humans can use ignoring certain behaviors and having the dog work for privileges to teach the dog that humans are in charge.

This is not a substitution for behavioral work and should only be used on dogs in good health and of stable temperament with no major behavioral issues. If you have any questions regarding your dog's behavior, seek professional advice before beginning a NILIF program. But for the average dog, this program is valuable.

Do you do things like leave food down all day for your dog? Give in and play when he jumps on you and the get frustrated when he jumps on you just before you go out for dinner? Do you allow your dog to get away with undesired manners like barking for attention or acting up when it is time to go for walks? Does your dog run roughshod over you? Not good. It is time to get serious and begin NILIF'ing.

Many undesired behaviors are learned out of demanding attention. For example, dog jumps on you, you pat him, dog is more likely to jump for attention the next time he wants it from you. Other dogs may poke, bark in your face, etc. The key is the dog is in control of the situation when he gets the attention he demands. Not good. He is also developing undesired behaviors, not because he is bad, but because you are reinforcing them. It is time to stop this. Since the dog is doing this for attention, you are going to
deny him that attention. Walk away. Totally ignore the dog. You can give him as much attention as you want as long as it is by your rules and not his. Now, encourage your dog to come to you and sit. If all four feet remain on the floor, he can get attention. If he starts that undesired barking or jumping or mouthing, walk away. Be consistent and be fair. Maintain your composure and level of being in charge. Dogs that are confused about who is in control are more likely to act out.

When first beginning a NILIF program the dog may get a bit confused. "Hey, this always worked in the past!" Chances are he will now try in earnest to get your attention. He will burst, explode and the behavior will get worse – or as I call it – The Storm Before the Calm. Hold your ground and do not give in. Giving in at any time is going to encourage the undesired behavior to continue. "See, I finally broke you down!"

Think of it as a toddler throwing tantrums and always getting what he wants. First time child sees something he wants and starts to fuss, mom gives in. She has just started the cycle of "If I fuss, I will get it." Next time mom ignored the fussing, the child escalates a bit. Mom gives in and child realizes "Gee, I got her to break down." The next time, the child will work even harder to get mom to give in if she does not crack immediately. The more mom breaks down, the more the child will throw that tantrum. If mom puts her foot
down and ignores the tantrum, the child will escalate it trying to get his own way again. She may have to endure hours of screaming, kicking feet, tears, wailing, throwing things, even the child gagging and possibly even vomiting as he works up that frenzy. Eventually, the child will stop. The tantrum just does not work any more. Yelling, or even pushing the child away is not what he is looking for, but it is something and a sign that mom is breaking. You need to totally turn off to the tantrum and endure it. As long as a child is not hurting himself, others, or breaking things, tantrums can often be allowed to run their course with children. This is very similar with dogs. For some dogs, attention is attention - be it positive or negative. Use the denial of any attention instead. Endure the extinction period and things will improve if everyone in the house is consistent. Again, you can give all the attention you want to the dog as long as it is by YOUR RULES and not his!

You as the human have the power, but you are also empowering the dog to learn selfcontrol. Again, do you just give in to your dog? Does he get food and play for free and there is no "currency" he has to pay with to get it? Change that. You have the power; you are in control - not him. Simple things like making him "work" or "pay" for things can help reestablish who is in charge. Insist the dog sits before he gets to eat. If he sits
automatically, regain control by having him down. If he takes a few bites and walks away, dinner is over until the next meal (feed your dog two meals a day). You control the food. He does not decide when mealtimes are - you do. Does your dog get up on your bed or furniture when he feels like it? Change. He has to now wait until he is given a command to come up. Before play and during play, stop the dog and have him work,
teach him tricks like "Shake" "Play Dead" "Take a Bow." If he does this, he can continue to play with you. If not, the game is over. The dog is given power in his own right. If he does what you ask, he gets what he wants. He is in control to an extent. But you are determining the outcome and what has to be done in order for that to occur. Sort of like a paycheck. You do what you are supposed to and when you are supposed to,
your pay continues, your job continues. Failure to do this and your job may very well end as does that pay check!

With your dog no longer in charge of the house, you will have to make more of an effort to engage in play and socialize. But it is worth it. NILIF does not mean denial of attention or play, it just means that the balance of power has shifted and the human is back in charge.

reprinted with kind permission from Karen Peak

http://www.westwinddogtraining.com

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Establishing and Keeping Alpha Position

Letting your dog know you are the boss

http://www.dogbreedinfo.com.

Below are a list of rules every dog owner should follow to ensure your dog knows his place in your human pack. If your dog guards his food, or growls at humans in the family, and especially if you own a wolf hybrid, these rules should be strictly followed. Dogs need to have a clear place in their pack. A dog lacking in this clear order is an unhappy dog.

Sometimes, a dog might not be showing signs of aggression, however the dog is suddenly showing signs of separation anxiety, such as destructive behaviors when you leave the house. A dog who questions his place in the household pack can sometimes cause him to suddenly display destructive behaviors, as the dog is confused and taking his anxiety out on your house.

A dog who knows his place in his human pack is a happy dog. A dog who does not is a confused dog and can exhibit many unwanted behaviors because of it.

1.     The people in the family the dog growls at must be the only ones to feed the dog. Give the dog a command before giving them their food. If a dog does not follow the command (i.e. to sit), he does not eat. Try again in about 20 minutes or longer. Repeat this until the dog listens to the command.

2.     All humans must eat Before the dogs, as the leader always eats first. When you give your dog its food eat a small snack first while he is watching, lay the snack near the dogs food so that he thinks you are eating out of his bowl (the leader always eats first)

3.     No table scraps should be fed to the dogs during a meal.

4.     Feedings must be at a scheduled time. (no self feeding dog food dispensers should be used, as this allows The Dog to Choose when he eats.)

5.    Humans must not let the dog go through any doorways first. Or up or down the stairs first. Dogs must always go through the doorways or up and down stairs After the humans, as the leader of the pack always goes first. The dog must be told to "stay" and given the command to "come" after all humans have passed through. (Read Training to find out the necessary basic commands all dogs should know. These commands are vital in the communication between you and your dog and should always be taught.)

6.   When you have left the house or the room, even for a minute and come back in the room, ignore the dog for a few minutes.

7.     A simple obedience command such as “Sit” should be given before any pleasurable interaction with the dog. (i.e. play session, petting, feeding or a walk etc…) The children should give the dogs commands at least once a day and reward with a treat when the command is followed. A simple “Sit” will do. No treat should be awarded if the dog does not follow the command. Show your dog he does not get anything for free. His food, water, treats, even praise/love have to be earned by doing something. Even something as little as sit or come.

8.     You should not lay on the floor to watch TV when the dog is around and no one should roll around the floor playing with the dogs, as a human should never put himself in an equal or lesser height position than the dog.

9.   You are the one who greets newcomers first, the dog is the last who gets attention (the pack leader is the one who greets newcomers and lets the rest know when it is safe to greet the newcomer)

10. If a dog is laying in your path, the dog Must get up and move out of your way. Do not step over the dog even if you can. In the wild, the pack leader always makes the lower dogs in the pack move.

11. During the time you are establishing your higher pack position, no hugs should be given to the dog by you, as a dominant dog may consider this a challenge of power.

12. If you establish eye contact with the dog, the dog must avert his gaze first. If the human averts first this reinforces the dogs higher power position. Tell the children Not to have staring contest with the dog, as if they avert or blink first, it will only reinforce, in the dogs mind, that He is Top Dog.

13. Dogs must not sleep in your bed. The comfortable bed is reserved for the higher humans.

14.   Dogs must never be allowed to mouth or bite anyone at any time, including in play.

15. Any attention given to the dog, including petting should be given when the Human decides attention is to be given (absolutely No Petting when the dog nudges or paws you or your hand. This would be letting the dog decide and reinforcing, in his mind, that he is higher on the scale than the human.)

16. Games of fetch or play with toys must be Started and Ended by the Human.

17. Dogs should not be allowed to lie on your furniture, as the leader of the pack always gets the most comfortable spot. Dogs belong on the floor.

18. No tug-of-war, as this is a game of power and you may lose the game giving the dog a reinforcement (in the dog's mind) of top dog.

19. Dogs need to be taught a “Drop it” or release command. Any objects the dog has in his possession should be able to be taken away by all humans.

20. Dogs own no possessions, everything belongs to the humans. They are all on "loan" from the human family. You should be able to handle or remove any item at all times from the dog with no problems from the dog. Even if you are taking a chicken bone out of the dog's mouth.

21. Dogs should not be allowed to pull on the leash. When they do this they are leading the way and it is the humans that need to lead the way and show they're higher up in the pack order. (In the wild, the leader of the pack always leads the way; the leader leads the hunt.)

22. When on a walk, a dog must not be allowed to sniff or eliminate anywhere he wishes. One marking against a tree is enough for male dogs.

23. Small dogs or puppies who demand to be picked up or put down should Not get what they want until they sit or do another acceptable quiet behavior. They should not be put down unless they are settled quietly in your arms.

24. Dogs should Never be left unsupervised with children or Anyone who cannot maintain leadership over the dog.

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How To Take On The Pack Leader Roll

Dena Gallant

www.gallantshepherds.com

I get a lot of questions about inappropriate behaviors in dogs such as jumping, nipping, chewing, barking, growling, aggressive behaviors, pulling on walks and I find myself repeatedly teaching people to relate better with their dogs and explaining how to take on a more authoritative, dog friendly, Pack Leader Roll. This approach is quite effective and more direct than just luring a dog with treats and praise alone. I tend to blend both these approaches with my dogs.

MANY BEHAVIORS START UNCORRECTED IN PUPPIES
Most of these behaviors start when the pup is little. Things like Jumping and Nipping and Barking, Chewing, Pulling are very common problems with puppies and adult german shepherds. I know that your puppy does not mean any harm when doing this however it becomes a very big problem as an adult. They do this because it is highly ingrained in them. It's how they play in the dog world and alert and defend the pack from strangers. However, these behaviors are not appropriate around humans. As you know german shepherds are large scary dogs to many people and when doing this to strangers, they think the dog is going to attack them (and sometimes they do) so it really has to be nipped in the butt and fast. If left unchecked at the very least the dog could knock over children, scare people and they can become very aggressive and bite children, adults and other animals. Much of this can be prevented if the dog owner knows how to relate to their dog and teaches them appropriate behaviors.

CHANGE STARTS WITH YOU
To stop inappropriate behaviors and to encourage appropriate ones, it really takes education and consistency on your part and adopting an authoritative pack leader roll. In the end how your dog behaves really depends on how well YOU are educated, how well YOU work with him and how consistent YOU are. Don't allow inappropriate behaviors under any circumstances. All dogs are a little difficult to teach something new at first, especially if your pack leader status is not clear. You can turn this behavior around very fast, sometimes in as little as a day, if you know what to do, are consistent, work with your dog and correct inappropriate behaviors immediately and appropriately as a Pack Leader does.

Most German Shepherds and other dogs also need to learn to be socialized. Dogs naturally want to bark and, nip and jump these are ingrained in every dog. It's similar to people who are born with a sin nature, some people have never been taught appropriate behavior. It may have got them through as a child but as an adult it doesn't work too well - We all know people like that. The same principle applies with your dog.. Your job is to curb those natural behaviors in your dog. Most any behavior can be modified. It really depends on how educated and consistent the owner is.

Its kinda like raising a child. If you let them grow up without rules, boundaries and consequences or if you only act 10, 20, or 30% of the time, you are not sending a strong message about your boundaries and they learn nothing and they get out of control. You want your dog to obey your rules so he behaves better around you and in public which means being a pack leader, setting clear boundaries, and being consistent. It really is about mutual respect and understanding..   It is clear that right now your dog is not obeying you and this will require you take on a more authoritative roll around your dog.

GET ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Some behaviors need special attention, or understanding, so I recommend that in addition to this article, you read the articles in the Help section of my website about becoming a pack leader as well as any other articles relating to your dog's current behavior. It will help you to learn what you may be doing to cause this particular behavior, and to help you to understand better where your dog is coming from. Below are some very useful tools and assistance with becoming a pack leader:

If your dog is exhibiting "fear" or urinating when afraid or excited, its especially important to read the articles related to "fear" on my help page. Puppies go through a fear imprint stage from 9-16 weeks and could have been affected during this time. You'll need to understand how to better deal with "fear"as well as learn desensitization and reconditioning techniques. Dogs experiencing "separation anxiety" also need special attention and an article related to "separation anxiety" can also be found on my help page.

UNDERSTAND YOUR DOG
The first thing you need to know is that dogs are at their happiest when they are in their submissive state. You're dog can't submit when he is in fight , flight, prey or avoid drive. Dogs can switch drives to pack drive and its your job to help him do that. In the wild the pack leader sets the boundaries and the dogs eagerly comply. They know it is in their best interests to do so - their life depends on it. A pack leader immediately and appropriately, corrects inappropriate behavior and ensures that the dogs needs are met. If your dog is not submitting it usually starts with your ability to understand your dog. Education is the key.

Dogs live in the present. They live in the NOW. They don't worry like we do about the future and they don't live in the past (they learn from it). So they don't know what they are in trouble for today when they get heck for something they did yesterday or an hour ago. If they are asked to come and they comply only to get into trouble they are afraid to come the next time because when they come they get into trouble. This is one of many examples of how humans are inconsistent and unpredictable with their dogs.

BE A PACK LEADER
A pack leader is not someone that is mean to a dog, gets angry at the dog, yells at the dog, is inconsistent or unpredictable in behaviors. Dogs don't listen to that behavior they defend themselves from it or run away from it. Dogs also sense anxiety, fear, and frustration. A pack leader is confident and relaxed and projects that energy. A pack Leader has the dog's best interests in mind, provides sound structure is consistent and can be trusted.   Doing this teaches your dog how you will react too. The more he can anticipate your sound reaction the more he will want to please you. In the wild dogs naturally listen to their pack leader. So become one worth listening to.

A PACK LEADER CONSIDERS THE WHOLE DOG
Make changes to incorporate all the needs of your dog, A dog with rules and boundaries, structure, consistency and exercise, are a happy dogs and less likely to attack other people or animals. It is also important to ensure that your dog has received proper vaccines, is dewormed, and free of fleas and parasites. Learn to recognize medical issues when they arise in order to prevent and treat ailments. Be sure to give your dog regular vet check ups and feed your dog a quality premium dog food appropriate for his age to ensure he is getting the proper nutrients he needs.

BE A PACK LEADER AND CONSISTENTLY WALK YOUR DOG
German Shepherds are high energy dogs. They need an outlet for all that energy. Walking is a must. A minimum of 45 minutes before their morning meal. The longer the walk the better followed with some retrieve exercises with a ball. In the Wild dogs usually migrate each day looking for food walking mimics what they would naturally do in the wild. It not only gives them physical activity it also helps them to stay mentally balanced. Dogs who get daily walking are generally much happier dogs, and are usually much calmer at home. Walking on a regular basis also increases your bond with your dog.

BE A PACK LEADER - TEACH YOUR DOG TO HEEL BY YOUR SIDE.
Teaching a dog to heel is not as hard as most people think and is a good exercise in submission. The proper way to walk a dog is to have him walk on your left with a loose lead in a calm relaxed state of mind. Not behind, not pulling (you're the leader not him), not trying to chase other dogs, not barking at people or animals.

A very fast pack leader style to teach your dog to heel. Start by keeping the leash very short. Just long enough to keep him at your side (as your dog submits, you can loosen the lead). Consider using a Halti and or a muzzle, for difficult dogs. A Halti allows you to move his head when you walk, keeping his attention in the right place. Walk tall, shoulders back and walk like you need to go somewhere (until the dog learns to stay by your side). Most importantly relax. If you are tense your dog will be tense. The goal is to walk in a confident relaxed state of mind to get your dog to walk in a calm submissive state along with you.

A dog that is pulling, sniffing, going the other way, barking at people, is aggressive etc. needs to be corrected.

CORRECTING YOUR DOG
These corrections are designed to take the dog's attention off what he is doing to put his attention on you and submit to you.   At first the dog may not want to submit and you will need to show the dog over and over that you have taken back the pack leader roll. A dog whose been king of the castle may not want to give up that roll easily. The more he is corrected the more he will learn to pay attention and submit to you and the less he will do the undesired behavior. Your dog won't submit if he is afraid. The key is to get him to relax and to be relaxed yourself. The goal is to get to a calm submissive state. This can be tricky at first but you'll get the hang of it.

When correcting, I never hurt my dogs, I never yell At my dogs or scare my dogs! I teach by example. Corrections must only occur the moment your dog acts inappropriately. Not 10 seconds, 1 minute or 10 minutes later, an hour later and so on. You can prevent pulling or aggressiveness by correcting just as he turns his head to pull or to become aggressive. You can prevent barking by correcting the moment he starts to bark. Consistency is the key. Your dog will learn fast.

CORRECTING ON A LEAD WHILE WALKING YOUR DOG
Correct the moment your dog runs ahead, pulls, sniffs, barks, etc. When consistent they work very well. These corrections help owners stay in the NOW and to correct in a calm assertive manner and should be used in the same order, escalating your response to your dog's lack of submission.

1. Lead Correction - Pull the lead towards you with a short fast jerk. Don't hurt the dog, don't yank so hard to create a neck injury. It is only to get his attention off what he is doing and on to you. Then relax your arm keeping it by your pant pocket. (if you want your dog to relax, you must relax! If you want your dog to be confident in You, be confident yourself!). The goal is to put your dog in a relaxed state of mind. He won't go there if you're not there. Put your thumb in your pocket to get used to where it should be. Hold the access lead in your right hand. Repeat this correction every time your dog runs ahead, barks, slows to sniff, etc.. Correct the moment the dog acts inappropriately.

2. Adopt a verbal correction. I correct with a fast Shhh in an authoritative manner while quickly pulling the lead towards me. Used in a consistent manner my dog's understand this is a correction and submit. I use this correction off and on lead.

3. If the dog remains stubborn on lead, and continues the inappropriate behaviors I gently touch the dog with my foot. While using the Verbal Correction Shh and pulling on the lead. If your dog is on your left, use your right foot, bring it behind your left leg to touch the dog. I do not kick the dog or hurt the dog, I simply touch him to get his attention off of what he is doing and on to me. The goal is to shift from one drive to the other and get his attention on me in order to place him in the relaxed submissive state. Repeat this correction a few times when continuing the inappropriate behavior.

4. If your dog still remains difficult and refuses to submit, I mimic what the pack leader does (biting his neck) by gently grabbing the lose skin on the back of the dogs neck to mimic a gentle bite. The goal is to get your dog's attention, to submit and to get into a relaxed submissive state of mind. The goal is not to hurt your dog.

5. I teach my dogs to sit when I want their full attention and if stubborn I often stop until I have his complete attention and submission and then I proceed.

Remember, at first this will be new to your dog, but with consistency, he will catch on.

CORRECTING OFF LEAD
1. If the dog is doing something inappropriate I say Ah Ah Ah, (doesn't sound like it will work but it does when used consistently, and consistent follow through with further corrections if not submitted to).

2. If the dog does not listen, I escalate my correction.   I stand in front of the dog, I look him in the eye, square off to him and say Shhh while placing my hand out in a stop signal towards the dog. At times I also gently move the dog to assist him to know what I want. I never yell at my dogs! I teach by example.

3. If your dog still remains difficult and refuses to submit, I mimic what the pack leader does (biting his neck) by gently grabbing the lose skin on the back of the dogs neck to mimic a gentle bite. The goal is not to hurt your dog or get upset yourself. The goal is to get the dog's attention, to submit and to get into a relaxed submissive state of mind.   It is very important for you to remain calm to set the example, to get your dog 's attention on you, and to get your dog to a calm submissive state.

4. For very stubborn dogs who refuse to submit, the last resort is placing your dog on his back in order that he submit to you.

5. Some dogs are very difficult and aggressive and even on their backs they may not submit. The corrections 1-4 would need to be repeated while the dog is on his back. For very aggressive dogs, in order to stay safe, consider using a muzzle or obtaining the assistance of a professional behaviorist.

These corrections are to be used in the same order, escalating your response to your dog's lack of submission. When consistent they work very well.

PRAISE YOUR DOG
Equally important is Praise. When your dog is doing what you want. Say Good Heel! Good Sit!.etc. This gives your dog a word picture he can relate to desired behavior. Pet your dog. Hug Him. Give him a treat when he is doing what you want. If he knows you like it he'll continue the behavior. You must be consistent! It is very important to remember to praise your dog for appropriate behaviors.

BE A PACK LEADER - FIND WAYS TO ENJOY YOUR DOG AND BURN OFF ENERGY

RETRIEVE RATHER THAN TUG OF WAR
Tug of War brings out the dog's aggressiveness. Its a good idea not to play this with your dog until you have a handle on him. Walk to a field and get your dog to retrieve a ball, frisbee or other fun article.   It allows your dog to feel free and to get exercise and stretch his legs and burn off excess energy. It also helps you and your dog to spend quality time together and improves your bond with your dog.. All that running is good for your dog and he will love you for it.

BIKE OR ROLLERBLADE WITH YOUR DOG
Consider an attachment for your bike so you can run your dog without him pulling you over. My dogs love bike rides. It burns off excess energy and they love the quality time. I love it too, because I can go as fast as them.   I also enjoy roller blading with my dogs. In this way, I can go faster, more geared to the dog's pace. Be sure to start slowly by first socializing your dog around bikes and roller blades. At first the dog may not be sure what to do and may tend to cross your path or pull in other directions. To avoid injuries to your dog and yourself; and to build confidence next to the bike or roller blades, start with short slow outings and work your way to longer and faster outings. Be sure you wear the appropriate safety equipment in the event of a fall. Puppies under one year should not go on distance runs to prevent hip and elbow issues in later life. Keep the pup's outings short and at their own pace.

BE A GOOD PACK LEADER - SOCIALIZE YOUR DOG
It is imperative that you learn to socialize your pup. Until a dog has been in a specific situation he does not always respond the way we want. For that reason the dog needs to be exposed to many different things on a regular basis and socialized with other people, animals and dogs. Be sure to teach your dog to pay attention to you on walks and to avoid dogs and distractions. But also teach your dog proper behavior around other dogs and people, socialize him with your neighbors and friends and their dogs. Your dog will love the quality time with you.

Start with not allowing your pup to react to other people and dogs on walks.   Walk in parks, busy streets, crowded areas, the more places you practice this the better behaved your dog will be. Once you have that, start socializing one on one with other dogs and people more and more.

Have your dog sit or lay at your side (on Lead) and practice having friends walk in front of you and around you. Practice having them walk dogs around him also. Correct your dog immediately as above for inappropriate behavior. The second your dog turns his head to act inappropriately such as barking, going into prey drive, or growling, correct him don't let him follow through with the behavior. If you allow him to get into fight drive it will be harder to get him under control.

If your dog reacts appropriately, and allows people or dogs to be near, Let your friends come up to him slowly. No Eye contact at first, hand out. Let him sniff their hand and look at them. Proper dog introductions are first nose, then Eyes. If he reacts, either you or someone has invaded his space too quickly and the people need to correct their behavior. If he reacts to a proper introduction, correct him as above. Consider going more slowly with him. If he accepts them, praise him.

Practice in many situations. Someone at the door. Socialize your dog with children, with bikes, skateboards, busy streets, large crowds, around loud machinery, lawn mowers, blow dryers, blenders, to give him confidence on how to handle the situation. You want your dog to learn not to react when children are running, people walk by, dogs are near, around loud noises. Practicing these scenarios teaches your dog not to react to distractions and creates a more stable confident dog.

BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOU FEED YOUR DOG.
Do not leave food out all day for your dog. Do not feed your dog until after his walk in the morning so he feels like he earned it as he would in the wild. A pack leader in the wild usually eats first and gets the choice parts of the meal. So consider eating first. When done Ask your dog to sit first. Put the bowl down and say something like "Eat Your Food" to give your dog a word picture of mealtime. Leave the food out for 15 minutes. Then remove the bowl. This teaches your dog that meal time is meal time. If he has to miss a few meals, he'll learn to eat when the bowl goes down. Young dogs like to have you close by. Be sure that plenty of water is always available for your dog

PRACTICE LEAVE IT COMMAND (Teaches Self Control. Teaches not to be aggressive around food also)
Practice a "Leave It" command by placing food on the floor. Hold his collar as he is lying down. When he goes for the food say "Leave It" and hold him back by his collar. When he moves back say "Good Leave It" and give him the treat. Once he has that, teach him to look at you first before he gets the treat. Make noise, a clicking sound with your mouth to get his attention at first. After a few repetitions, your dog will catch on. Next teach your dog to wait after he has looked at you until you say "OK (release word) "Go Get It" Practice daily until your dog waits for your release word. I've taught all my dogs this and meal time is a piece of cake...Uh Kibble.... This translates into leaving things he shouldn't get into around the house, leaving things on walks, etc.

BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOUR DOG NIPS
Dogs teeth should never touch human skin. If your dog nips correct your dog immediately as above with a pack leader authoritative Shh, give the dog direct eye contact, square off to him in a dominant stance until he shows signs of submission.

If playing and the dog nips my arms or hand or whatever, I Yelp in a real loud high pitched voice to let the dog know that human skin is delicate and to mimic the sound dogs make when they get hurt. This usually surprises the dog and gets his attention and he stops - thats the goal. I also grab the dog's muzzle and say "No biting" or I immediately use the above correction to get him to submit. It's important to act immediately and to correct immediately. Any play should be terminated at that point. I usually direct my dog to a chew toy providing something appropriate to chew on. Your dog will soon learn that if he wants to play with you he should not nip.

BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOUR DOG CHEWS INAPPROPRIATE THINGS
German Shepherds need to chew. Especially when teething. When chewing on things he shouldn't, provide your dog with an appropriate alternative behavior.

If your dog has something in his mouth that he shouldn't I say Ah Ah Ah. Then I ask him to "GIVE" and gently take it out of his mouth. Praise him for giving it to you, then give your dog an appropriate chew toy and say something like "Here's your Toy". Never correct a dog for "giving" something to you. Praise him for it. You can also teach your dog to "leave it" (Outlined above)

RECOMMENDED CHEW TOYS

Large Bones
My dogs also love the Large Roll Over Bones. They should be large enough to allow your dog to get his mouth inside the end. They are filled with Rollover and they keep the dog's busy and content for a long time. Even when they've gotten all the roll over out they still like the bone.

Kongs.
Kongs are available everywhere and are made of a hard rubber material. When thrown they bounce all over so they also make a great retrieve article. My dogs really love them when I fill them with something yummy inside, like treats, or rollover.

BE A PACK LEADER WHEN YOUR DOG JUMPS UP ON YOU
Jumping up should never be allowed under any circumstances. It is cute when pups are small but when bigger humans and children consider this a threat and sometimes it is and could cause little children to fear dogs for life. Dogs should be taught to sit for attention. Giving a dog attention, (looking at the dog, talking to to the dog, petting the dog) when jumping up on you only tells the dog that his behavior is OK and that you approve of his jumping. The best thing to do when a Dog jumps is to not give the dog what he is looking for - Attention, but at the same time a difficult dog insistent on jumping needs to be corrected.

My manner of correction seems to cut through the difficulties and speaks to the dog in his own language. It does take repetition and success depends on how well my dog accepts my pack leader status and how consistent I am.

When jumping I say "OFF".   If my dog does not submit I correct using the Shhh as above in an authoritative tone, standing confident, squared off to the dog, giving direct eye contact with my hand out forming a stop signal, so the dog knows its a correction. I then ask my dog to sit. My dogs are accustomed to my correction and pay attention and sit when I do this. Once the dog is sitting (showing submission) and I have the dog's attention, I then praise the dog for sitting. Only when the dog has submitted appropriately, and is sitting should he get the attention he is looking for.

BE A PACK LEADER AND TRAIN YOUR DOG
Consider taking your dog to manners and obedience classes. You'll be glad you did. Training your dog makes life more enjoyable for you and your dog. Classes are very valuable for not only training your dog, but also for socializing around strangers and other dogs and for answering any questions you may have. These classes are advertised for dogs and they are, but really they are for owners to learn how to better relate to their dogs and to assist them to train basic commands in a dog's own language. For owners who enjoy the training process, dogs who complete these can go on to more training in Rally Obedience, Obedience, Agility, Flyball, Tracking, Therapy Work, and more. My dogs miss it when not being trained. Not only do they really love to learn but they really love to please and do well with the one on one quality time, car rides and visiting with other people and dogs. It really helps your dog become well adjusted and makes them feel like part of the family and that really is our goal.

CONCLUSION
A dog with rules and boundaries, structure, consistency and exercise and training are a happy well adjusted dogs and less likely to attack other people or animals. Following the above teaches your dog how you will react too. The more your can anticipate your reaction the more he will want to please you. Most importantly when you can relate to your dog and your dog respects you, it improves the bond between you and makes life more enjoyable for everyone.

RECOMMENDATIONS
Get yourself some good books that assist you to understand how a dog thinks, how to train your dog and how to become a pack leader you will be glad you did. Most importantly, you and your dog will benefit with a long rewarding life together.

If you have any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to let me know or check out the info and help sections of my website, there you will find more assistance. Please email us with your success stories.

Website@gallantshepherds.com We Carry a vast array of K9 Books, DVD's & Videos at http://gallantshepherds.com/books.htm
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The Dog in Your Living Room	Taking Charge	5 Ways to Show Your are the Boss	The Need For Leadership
Being a Leader To Your Dog

Dogs Need Leaders

How to become the pack leader