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Canine
Separation Anxiety
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Separation
Anxiety
The worst cases of separation
anxiety present an unlivable disaster for the pet owner. The animal
becomes destructive, soils the house, and vocalizes loudly and unabashedly
and, since the behavior occurs almost exclusively when the pet is alone,
there is nothing to stop him from creating a spectacular mess and annoying
the neighbors every time the owner steps out. In milder cases the dog
may show only panting, over-grooming, or pacing, which is not overtly
destructive but clearly represents an unpleasant mental state for the
patient.
Often the dog begins the anxiety display when he perceives
cues that the owner is about to leave (i.e., the owner puts on cologne
for work, gets the car keys, takes a shower, makes coffee etc.).
Separation anxiety problems can be precipitated by moving to
a new home or prolonged separation from the owner. Prior to these events,
the dog may have shown no separation anxiety whatsoever.
Separation Anxiety vs. Boredom
It seems intuitively obvious that boredom and anxiety are opposite
mental states but when one considers that dogs cannot talk, it becomes
easier to see how one might misinterpret a dog's behavior. One may
come home to find the front door scratched up beyond recognition or
the sofa reduced to a pile of stuffing. Was he reacting to his fear
of being alone? Was he bored and looking for fun? Was he frustrated
because he did not know when to expect his owner to be home?
Separation anxiety is about two things: Separation and anxiety
(or fear). Some clues that the problem is separation anxiety and not
something else are:
The behavior occurs only when the pet is left alone or anticipates
being left alone. (The dog who is destructive for fun may well be
destructive when he is not left alone.)
The pet is "hyperattached" to
the owner. The hyperattached pet follows the owner from room to room
and/or constantly wants to be held. Many people enjoy being loved by
a dog to this extent but it is important to realize when some independence
must be learned.
Destruction is oriented against barriers such as doors (especially
the door where the owner was last seen by the pet).
Vocalization during the episode
tends to be high pitched and in repeated yips. (This is a regression
to a young puppy's distress call in the time of separation from its
mother.)
The episode begins in the first 30 minutes from the time the
owner leaves.
Not every one of these signs
must be fullfilled for the diagnosis of separation anxiety to be made
but the point is that an effort should be made to determine if the
dog is actually showing separation anxiety or if there is some other
motivation at work.
Treatment
Living with a destructive animal is an on-going nightmare.
One never knows what disaster will be waiting on the other side of
the front door and the simple luxury of finding one's things where
one left them becomes an impossible dream. It would be wonderful
if one could simply give the dog a pill and solve the problem; unfortunately,
training is the primary focus of solving separation anxiety. Often the
owner needs as much training as the dog.
Step One: Discourage Hyperattachment
Dogs will often solicit attention from their owners. Resist
the temptation of petting the dog with separation anxiety when approached
for play or contact. Be aloof when greeted upon arriving home. Instead
the human should be the initiator of contact with the dog.
Do not allow the dog to settle down in close proximity (within
one yard) of where the owner is settling down. Arrange objects on
the bed or sofa or on the floor so that the dog must settle at a greater
distance. If possible, verbally reward the dog for settling at a distance
(though take care as continued attention may be seen by the dog as an
invitation to approach which is not what we want.) If the dog normally
sleeps on the owner's bed, provide the dog with his own bed. One may need
to start with the dog bed at the foot of the human bed before ultimately
the dog bed is moved to the floor or even outside the room.
If there are other people in the home besides the primary dog
caretaker, try to divide the care giving among the different people
so that the dog is not as dependent on one person.
Encourage independent play by using toys that do not require
human participation (like a Kong toy containing a food reward).
Step Two: Relaxation During Separation
It is also important to create a positive environment in the
owner's absence. There are several ways this might be achieved.
Provide a special treat (food, toy or both) only available
when the pet is left alone. Do not forget to remove the item when you
return home.
The D.A.P. (Dog Appeasement Pheromone)
diffuser is a plug-in scent-releasing device. The material released
is a genetically engineered pheromone normally secreted by mother dogs
to their puppies as a message telling them to relax and that everything
is all right. The pheromone is odorless to humans. A pump spray is also
available but the diffuser continuously releases its message to hopefully
keep the anxious dog calm.
Leave the television or radio on. The dog will not be fooled
into thinking that someone is home; the point is to recreate a sense
of cozy relaxation. Most people at home relax while listening to the
radio or watching TV and the dog often sits in the room relaxed, too.
The sound of the broadcast becomes a classically conditioned cue to the
dog and may be helpful in creating a sense of comfort.
Step Three: Desensitization To Separation
Dogs readily learn the cues that indicate that the owner will
be leaving the house soon. It is helpful to "uncouple" these cues from
the actual leaving. At random times, the owner can go through some
of the rituals of leaving: out on cologne, shower, wear work clothes,
taking the car keys, even going outside and locking the door (but then
coming in again). This helps the dog to remain relaxed when he
hears or sees these cues at the times when the owner is actually leaving.
Do not punish the dog for behavior demonstrated in fear.
Punishment usually only leads to more fear or anxiety. Second, unless
the dog is actually in the process of performing the behavior one wishes
to discourage, the dog will not understand what behavior is being punished.
Drugs
Currently clomipramine is the only FDA-approved drug for the
treatment of separation anxiety in the dog; however, other human anti-anxiety
medications have a long history of use for this purpose.
Clomipramine, a tricyclic anti-anxiety drug so named because
of its chemical structure, works by increasing levels of serotonin
in the brain. Serotonin is a neurotransmitter associated with pleasant,
relaxed sensations. When serotonin levels are very high, we fall happily
and cozily asleep. Serotonin is also involved with the pleasant sensations
associated with eating chocolate, sun bathing, and falling in love. Problems
with serotonin function can lead to anxiety, obsession, and mood disorders.
Clomipramine may be used once or twice a day. Often a lower
dose is started, gradually working up to a higher dose. Some owners report
good effect right away but it more commonly takes several weeks (4-6
weeks) for a steady blood level to be achieved.
This drug or any other used is meant as a supplement to training
and cannot be expected to work without proper behavior management.
Date Published: 8/11/2003 5:25:00 PM
copyright 2003 - 2007 by the Veterinary Information Network,
Inc. All rights reserved.
This work was originally published by Veterinary Information
Network, Inc. (VIN) and is republished with VIN's permission.
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Coping
with Destructive Behaviour and Separation Anxiety in Dogs
Ron Hines DVM PhD
Separation anxiety seems
to be a disease of urban living. Many dogs become highly psychologically
dependant on their owners. When these dogs are left alone, stress causes
them to exhibit destructive behavior and separation anxiety. Destructive
behavior and separation anxiety occur in all breeds of dogs. For some
reason, separation anxiety occurs frequently in herding breeds. Signs of
separation anxiety in these dogs can be vocal, self-traumatic or destructive.
In some cases, separation anxiety and destructive behavior can be unlearned
through training and positive reinforcement. In other cases, separation
anxiety and destructive behavior is best treated with oral medications.
1) What is Separation Anxiety (SA)?
Perfect pets, like perfect people are hard to find. Separation
anxiety (SA) is a pet’s exaggerated fear over separation from its owners.
It is a modern, industrial age, disease. I see it most often in dogs, parrots
mice and cats. Simply said, they are afraid of being left alone.
2) What are the Signs of Separation Anxiety ?
You can diagnose SA by noting its signs and symptoms in your pet.
After all, you know your pet better than any veterinarian can. Separation
anxiety is not the same as boredom, which can also result in chewing,
pawing, digging, and other bad behavior. SA begins as a panic soon as
you leave, boredom, after an hour or two.
All puppies show some signs of Separation Anxiety. It’s only natural
for an infant of any species. But as time passes, normal puppies and
other pets show these signs less and less and become more confident about
being alone. It’s worrying about your being away or about their being
away from “the pack” which is out of line for “teenage” puppies and other
pets.
Signs of SA in pets are: fearfulness (worry, apprehensiveness),
clinginess, hyperactivity, barking and yelping (screaming in birds),
destroying objects, urinating inappropriately, defecating in the house,
vomiting, diarrhea, salivation, depression or aggressiveness when they
are about to be left alone or think they are about to be. Some over-eat;
some under-eat. Some twitch their ears, pace, pant, hide or jump and bounce
about. Parrots and cats over-groom, resulting in bald areas on their chests.
Some pets can be left alone for no longer than a few minutes before they
panic and exhibit these behaviors. Sometimes separation anxiety is caused
by a change in schedule that requires the pet to be left alone for longer
that normal. Unidentified changes in older pets may also cause sudden separation
anxiety, which can be mistaken for senility. What your pet is thinking
is that it is about to loose its main friend and that you will not be returning.
It is preoccupation with this that sets off the cycle.
I have seen SA equally in male and female pets, unneutered and
fixed. Among dogs, dolichocephalic (long nosed) shepherd-like dogs, bred
for herding and guarding as well as spaniels and setters more commonly
have the condition. I have noticed that dogs with SA tend to be lean or
thin and have periodic digestive disturbances. Among cats: Siamese seem
over-represented; among birds, Cockatoos, African Grey Parrots and Macaws.
Age at onset in dogs is usually 5 months to two years. In parrots it can
occur at any age. I would guess that in its severe form, it affects 4-8 %
of the pet dog I have seen over the last 40 years and a similar percentage
of Parrots. It is much less common in cats.
3) What are the Causes of Separation Anxiety?
Some puppies, kittens and parrots, for reasons we do not entirely
understand, retain their normal early fear of being left alone. Perhaps
these were puppies that were removed from their parents too young or
whose mothers were unavailable. Others come from families of dogs genetically
prone to anxiety. Many, are multi-owner dogs that bounced from one home
to another, from shelter to shelter. I am a licensed foster parent and
many of the pets I have seen with this problem remind me a great deal of
my foster children. Certainly some of these pets were abused; but only a
small percentage of abused pets develop SA. Social risk factors for SA include
early maternal rejection by the dame, lack of stimulation, poor maternal
health, and neglect as a puppy. The owner’s personality types also play
a part in this disease.
In dogs, the remission rate with SA is fairly high – that is,
a lot of your pets are going to have good days and bad ones, good periods
and bad periods. Some fortunate ones will cure themselves altogether
with minimal help from you. Older pets with SA may have difficulty moving
to new homes, accepting new pets, babies and new situations in general.
But although we do not yet know the exact cause of separation anxiety,
some risk factors are known. Affected pets tend to belong to families that
are close-knit. The disorder often develops after a stress such as death
or illness in the family, a move, a new baby or pet or changes in family
structure. Dogs and people with SA often have parents and siblings with
SA. If one human identical twin has SA, the other almost certainly does
too. The same pertains to litters of dogs – although with less certainty.
I read two interesting articles (Grachev et.al, 1998, Rauch & Savage
1997) that concluded that many humans with similar problems show abnormalities
in a tangle of nerve cells near the front of the brain (orbitofrontalstriatal
area). The brain is an immensely complicated organ and these types of experiments
are difficult to conduct and interpret. Some pediatricians feel that these
abnormalities might result from bacterial infections. They call this syndrome
PANDAS (Pediatric Autoimmune Neuro-psychiatric Disorders Associated with
Streptococcal Infection) – a good reason not to over-vaccinate your pets.
We definitely need more research on this subject – consider this my pitch
for generous funding of my alma mater, the N.I.H. Today all that can be
said with certainty is that SA results from abnormalities in neural (nerve)
circuitry and/or chemical transmitters in the brain’s basal ganglia (probably
nor-epinephrine, serotonin and dopamine).
4) What are Some of the Non-Drug Therapies for Separation Anxiety?
These non-drug therapies should always be the first-line approach
when possible. Some times it is possible to improve them without medications
and sometimes it isn’t.
In some dogs, all that is required is to place the dog in a smaller
space, a “crate”, where they can feel secure when you leave. If the
dog panics when crated, don’t force it in. This will make the situation
worse. Some people, including me, have problems accepting the crating
of dogs for long periods. Crating can be a simple “fix”, but I would try
positive reinforcement techniques and medications before I resorted to
“crating” my own dog. Positive reinforcement teaches the dog that it does
not have to be fearful and panic when it is left alone and that being alone
is not such a bad thing. We do this by rewarding desirable behavior and
ignoring bad behavior.
Besides positive reinforcement, another term that is thrown around
a great deal is “Cognitive Behavioral Therapy”. This has four components:
1) recognizing anxious feelings in your pet, 2) reassurance in anxiety-provoking
situations, 3) developing a plan for coping with the situation, and 4)
evaluating the success of coping strategies and behavioral therapy.
Here are some practical steps you can take to minimize separation
anxiety. All attempt to teach your dog that it does not have to be frightened
and panicky when it is left alone and to lessen its dependency:
a) Teach your dogs as many commands as possible. Your pet should
be able to “sit” “relax” and “stay” on command while you stroke and reassure
him. One of the best ways to accomplish this is to join a group obedience
class. Each member of your household should participate in a “take charge”
way because it is impossible to have happy, well-adjusted family pet
if family members are below it in the “peck order” (social order). The
point of this training is teaching anxious dogs to relax and give it confidence.
Do the exercises in various rooms of the house and in the yard. Give out
praise effusively and chew treats liberally.
b) Find a room in your house that is not easily destroyed. Place
the dog in it with some of his favorite toys and stay with him a while.
Then leave and shut the door promptly without fanfare. When you return,
a few minutes later, give him a pat and his favorite food treat. Over
days, repeat this; but each time stay away a little longer. You may leave
a radio or television playing but be careful about electrical cords. (The
technical term for this is Graduated Exposure or desensitization)
c) Dogs know when you are thinking of leaving long before you
do. Perhaps it is because you put on your shoes, pick up your purse
or car keys or put on your dress clothes. If you can determine what the
clues are that you give your dog, you can try to desensitize him to these
clues by repeating them frequently but not leaving and by giving him a
treat and praise when he behaves well. When you have made progress, make
your departures quiet and quick. (The technical term for this is Contingency
Management or unlearning)
d) Some feel that diet might play a part in SA. There is no harm
in offering your pet a diet that one leading manufacturer offers as a
“brain food” (Prescription Diet Canine b/d) or a hypoallergenic diet (CNM’s
HA or Hill’s z/d).
e) In some pets, you can reduce dependency by spending less time
with them for a training period of several weeks or months. That means
less eye contact, less verbal praise and less comforting, less commands
and less scolding. During these periods the dog should not be allowed to
sleep in your bed or bedroom. While doing this, never “reward” unwanted behavior
by making a scene, scolding or interacting with the pet. Always be mellow
with your pet – mellow people tend to have mellow pets. The purpose of
all this is to make the pet more self-reliant. (The technical term for
this is Response Prevention)
f) There are mixed thoughts about the benefit of having a companion
pet for your pet. Some say this may help the situation and others say
it will make the problem worse. I have not personally seen this approach
work. It will overcome boredom.
g) It really helps to work with someone who has experience with
SA in pets because it is fairly easy to make things worse by being too
zealous, too harsh, or too shy with your pet.
Other Strategies As I mentioned before, make do not make your
departures a big production by hugging the pet and cooing over it because
your are guilty about leaving. This only makes the problem worse. Try
leaving through a back or side door. Departures should be quick and quiet.
The Family should ignore the dog 20 minutes before you leave and 20 minutes
after you get home.
Dogs need vigorous exercise once or twice a day. A good plan is
to take them for a walk or jog an hour or so before you leave for work
and then give them 20 minutes or so to calm down before you leave.
What are the drugs used to treat Separation Anxiety?
I suggest that drug therapy not be used until you have attempted
some of the non-drug therapies listed above. Preliminary research suggests
that selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRI’s) may provide effective
treatment of separation anxiety disorder and other anxiety disorders in
pets. Neither tricyclic antidepressants like Elavil nor benzodiazepines
such as Valium have been shown to be more effective than placebos in children
although some veterinarians do prescribe them.
I have used Haldol (haloperidol) successfully in parrots, cockatoos
and macaws to prevent feather plucking, a form of SA in birds. I do
not like the drug because it causes loss of coordination (dyskinesia)
and loss of mental acuity. One of my daughters was placed on it and these
side effects were debilitating.
I will discuss the general approach to psychopharmacology that
I use – some animal behavioralists would probably use non-drug therapy
longer than I agree to. This is because I am part pharmacist, somewhat
impatient, and because I have seen the success these drugs offer. I have
had personal pets, zoo animals and my own children on these medications
before. The SSRI’s appear effective in treating SA in pets; they are most
certainly effective in human children and adults. SSRI’s are all antidepressant
and anti-anxiety medications. SSRI’s all affect the way our pets think,
feel, and act. They affect nerves that are involved in the regulation of
mood, appetite, sexuality, sleep, aggression, obsessions, and compulsions.
They have remarkably few and mild side effects. Some side effects are: dry
mouth, sleepiness, dizziness, fatigue, tremors, and constipation. They occur
fairly commonly.
Antidepressant and Anti-anxiety Medications of the SSRI (Selective
Serotonin Reuptake Inhibitor) and Norepinephrine Reuptake Inhibition
Class* ** ***
*Only Clomipramine (Clomacalm) is approved for use in dogs. None
are approved for other pets although all have been used.
**Cats are very unique in their metabolism of drugs. I have only
used the tricyclic antidepressant, Elavil and the serotonin receptor blocker,
cyproheptadine (Periactin) successfully in cats.
***Most of these medicines offer pediatric doses, which can be
used to calculate pet doses. Another technique for calculating dose is
allometric scaling. As with children one should always start at a dose,
which is likely, Too Low (20%) and very slowly increase the dose until
it is effective or one is satisfied that it will not work. It can take several
months to make a decision.
Brand Name
|
Generic Name
|
Brand Name
|
Generic Name
|
Anafranil
|
clomipramine
|
Celexa
|
citalopram
|
BuSpar
|
buspirone
|
Sinequan
|
doxepin
|
Effexor
|
venlafaxine
|
Tofranil
|
imipramine
|
Luvox (SSRI)
|
fluvoxamine
|
Wellbutrin
|
bupropion
|
Paxil (SSRI)
|
paroxetine
|
Zoloft
|
sertraline
|
Prozac (SSRI)
|
fluoxetine
|
Rimeron
|
mirtazapine
|
Serzone (SSRI)
|
nefazodone
|
Lexapro
|
escitalopram
|
When SA is successfully treated, you will notice other changes
in your pet. They will usually be less tense, more carefree, enthusiastic,
and less depressed. They may get a bit pudgy. Don’t feel guilty about
using these medications under your vet’s guidance. There should be no
more stigma attached to them than aspirin - you are just treating a brain
hormone imbalance. Try to be content with improvements – not total makeovers.
reprinted with kind permission from
Teri Fritts, Customer Service
teri@dogdecor.com
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Dogs who don't like being left alone
Is your dog chewing on
furniture, digging a hole in the carpet or barking non stop when you
have left him alone at home? This is your dogs way of dealing with stress
and anxiety and it is your job to recognise that and do something about
it. You need to reassure your dog that being left is OK and that it in fact
can be quite a positive experience.
Start from scratch
Do everything that you normally do when you are going out - put
on your jacket, get your keys and mobile, turn the heating down, put the
lights out in the kitchen... what ever your routines are - do that!
* Walk out of the door and close and lock it behind you. Wait for
circa a minute and then go back inside again, take of your jacket, put
the lights on again, turn the heating up... and do something relaxed -
read a book, watch TV, start dinner, do the dishes... - but don't greet
the dog when you enter the door, be very nonchalant and just get on with
what you are going to do (...dishes, read a book, etc.).
* Repeat this exercise as many times as you can muster every day,
but with at least half an hours break in between each exercise.
* After a couple of days you can start expanding the time you are
out of your home. First day 2 minutes, next day 3 minutes. This is to
teach the dog that you will come back soon and that there is no need to get
excited. That is also the reason that you should not greet the dog when
you enter the door - you are making just as much fuss about him or her being
alone as he/she is! A calmly spoken Hello and a quiet stroke over his back
is sufficient as a greeting.
You can
help the dog cope with the loneliness in additional ways.
Treat treasure hunt
I always used to throw a handful of tiny treats (if your dog is
keen on his regular kibble, you can use that), over my living room floor
and sofa (yes, I allow my dogs everywhere in my home) and they could spend
a good minute or two searching for their sweets, before they even noticed
I was gone. There are many different ways to hide the treats or the dogs
favourite toy, so that when you leave, it will actually be a positive
experience for the dog!
This
type of problem will be easier to solve with the help of an experienced
dog instructor, who will set up your training to your specific needs,
so I would like to advise you to get in touch with your local dog instructor.
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Dealing with Separation Anxiety
Separation anxiety can be
a tough problem to deal with, for you and your dog. There are several
things that may trigger a response of separation anxiety in your dog,
including the following: when a dog who is accustomed to constant human
companionship is suddenly left alone for the first time; when a change
in the routine or family structure occurs; following a long period of time
when the dog and his owner were constantly together; or following a traumatic
event. Common behaviors occurring from separation anxiety include chewing,
digging and scratching at windows or doors; urination and defecation resulting
from stress; and barking, crying and howling. It's important to remember
that your dog's separation anxiety behavior is part of a panic response,
one that he can't help. For that reason, punishment simply will not work.
Some short term solutions can involve leaving your pet with a friend
or relative or at a doggie day care facility or boarding kennel. Another
temporary measure can involve anti-anxiety medication, though be sure to
consult with your veterinarian first. If, however, you're interested in
more long-term solutions, you do have options.
Dealing with Separation Anxiety
One exercise that can help with separation anxiety and is fairly easy
to execute is to practice sit-stay and down-stay commands using positive
reinforcement. This gradually teaches your dog that he can remain calmly
in one place while you're elsewhere. You want to say the command, then
move briefly out of your dog's sight, gradually increasing the distance
and time that you are away from your dog. On your return, use positive
reinforcement by gently praising him or giving him a treat. These exercises
can easily be incorporated into your normal routine, for instance when
you get up to go into another room.
If you're dealing with a fairly minor case of separation anxiety,
there are several other things that you can do. First, try leaving your
dog with an article of your clothing that has your scent on it. Also,
keep all of your departures and arrivals low-key. In fact, experts recommended
that you actually ignore your pet for the first few minutes when you arrive
home, then calmly pet him. You can also establish a cue that you use every
time you leave your dog on short absences. This can be a word or action,
something like 'be right back' or the presentation of a chew toy, that
should be used during practice sessions. However, avoid using this cue
when you'll be gone for longer periods of time.
For more severe cases of separation anxiety, you can do all of the
above techniques combined with a process of desensitization meant to get
your dog used to being alone. This process should begin with your normal
departure activities, things that your dog recognizes like getting the
keys, putting on your shoes, or grabbing your coat. Do these normal activities,
but then sit back down. Repeat this exercise until your dog does not respond
to your actions with distress.
You then want to gradually increase what it is that you're doing.
The next step is to do your normal departure activities but then go to
the door, open it, then sit back down. After that, increase what you're
doing so that you actually step outside, leaving the door open, then return
and sit back down. Finally, increase it so that you step outside, close
the door, then immediately return and sit back down. Slowly increase the
amount of time that you're outside so that you get your dog accustomed
to being alone and being calm.
The key here is to proceed very gradually from step to step. You should
not go forward a step until you dog shows no signs of distress with what
you are doing. If your actions do produce anxiety, you've likely gone too
fast and need to return to the earlier step. How long it will take you
or how many times you need to repeat each step will vary.
You can start practicing short absences once your dog has learned
to tolerate your being outside for several seconds. Start with a minute
away and practice as many absences under ten minutes as possible. You
can practice several of these in one session, and also practice some short-duration
absences scattered throughout the day. Every time that you return, keep
your return low-key. Your goal should be to get your dog to handle short
absences between thirty and ninety minutes in length. Once that has been
accomplished, you can start to try some longer absences.
There are some things that simply won't help with separation anxiety.
Punishment should never be used and crating is not recommended. Getting
another pet as a companion usually doesn't work either. What can work, however,
is lots of patience and understanding.
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The above information is simply informational.
It's intent is not to replace the advice of a veterinarian nor to assist
you in making a diagnosis of your pet. Please consult with your own veterinarian
for confirmation of any diagnosis. Your pets life may depend on it.