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Walking Nicely on The Leash |
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Walking on a Loose Lead
Walking Nicely on the Leash
The Gentle Leader
The Halti Head Collar
Canny Non Pull Collar
Halti Harness
The Halti Training Lead
Shut Up and Walk Away-Teaching Loose Leash Walking Without Force
Extendable Cord Lead Warning
Walking Nicely on the Leash
The Gentle Leader
The Halti Head Collar
Canny Non Pull Collar
Halti Harness
The Halti Training Lead
Shut Up and Walk Away-Teaching Loose Leash Walking Without Force
Extendable Cord Lead Warning
Walking on the lead nearly always seems to result in pulling on the lead.
This is because most dogs love a walk and they want to get to where they are going as quickly as possible. If you walk with other dogs, you can add to this, the element of competition - not wanting the other dog to get in front!
Positive reinforcement is about the dog understanding the consequences of what he does. Sometimes it is actually negative reinforcement in that the dog is prevented from doing what he wants. Thus we can use this principle to teach the dog not to pull.
You need to practice this with only one dog and as a separate exercise. It is no good trying to do this when you are on your early morning dash to the park before work. You need time to teach the exercise properly.
Initially you need to be in control before you even leave the house. A dog that pulls you to the front door is already winning the game! Put the dog's lead on and take a step towards the door. If he pulls you there, stop, take the lead off and go and sit down again. The consequence of the pulling was "no walk". Next time, try again, if he pulls just stand still. Do not move towards the door. Eventually, out of confusion, the dog will turn and look at you. As the lead goes slack, say "good dog" and take a step towards the door. You may only get one step before he pulls again. You must be consistent. If he pulls, you either take off the lead and don't go at all, or you stand still until the lead goes slack.
This exercise could take several days. That doesn't mean you shouldn't walk your dog at all in that time. Perhaps take him out in the car so that the walk is not dependent on the lead.
Once you have got to the point where you can get to the front door calmly you can open the door but- the dog must NOT lunge out of the door ahead of you. If he lunges, close the door, take the lead off again.
This all sounds very negative but, from the dog's point of view,
the reward is going for the walk. He must behave in an acceptable manner
to be able to get his reward. If you are consistent he will get the idea
very quickly. Once you have got out of the door you keep going with the principle of "slack lead" = "forward"; "tight lead" = "stop". You MUST be consistent. The reward is the moving forward so if you keep going when the dog is pulling, you are rewarding for pulling. You can also use treats to get the dog focussed back towards you. I often get through a whole pocket-full of treats on a lead training walk. When the dog pulls I stop, wait for the dog to turn back to me, take a step forward so that the dog is level with my leg, then give a treat whilst the dog is in the correct position.
This exercise is hard work and very frustrating. But it is worth the effort in order to avoid that dog-owners nightmare, the dog you hate to walk because of the pulling!
There are products you can use to help cope with a dog that pulls. Many people have experienced success with these products and I've even used some of them myself.
A word of caution is that they all need to be used with care. A head-collar used harshly can damage a dog's neck and a harness can damage the skin under the arms.
You can consider:
The Halti,
the gentle controller or gencon headcollar,
the gentle leader
or many different types of harness including the Kumfi stop-pull harness.
I would never consider using a check (choke) chain although I have occassionally used a half check collar. My preference is for a flat, leather collar, every time.
My final comment is that, whilst they may help in the short term, and certainly have their place, none of these are a substitute for good training.
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with Silvia Anne Kent
Walking Nicely On The leash
If there‘s any area of intense conflict between companion dogs and their owners, this must be it!
I‘ve been deeply interested in the various methods of teaching so-called Heelwork for as long as I‘ve been involved in dog training, and I must say I never liked any of them too much.
So one day, I‘m standing outside a primary school and I‘m observing various mothers with children of all ages walking towards the entrance.
The very youngest children were being carried.
The toddlers toddled after their mums as best they could.
The older toddlers were trying to commit suicide by dashing into the road and their mums were rushing after them frantically, or else holding onto their hands like grim death.
The pre-school children skipped and hopped around their mothers whilst being watched carefully and called back every so often.
The school children walked next to their mothers on their own accord and had conversations with them.
In a way, that‘s much like my experiences with puppies.
Very young puppies are absolutely desperate to stay with you. Even outgoing characters get pretty overwhelmed at the great big world out there and stay close to you to begin with.
In my opinion, the problem with dogs pulling on the leash appears in the older toddler stage. The dogs get really excited, can‘t wait to get out there, try to rush ahead. As result, the owners tighten up on the leash and the dog goes into the "pull me - push you" response, like those older toddlers were pulling on their mother‘s hands, trying to get ahead, trying to get free. This "tug‘o‘war" type response is allowed to occur every time they go out for a walk, and then becomes a habit.
6 months later, the owners come to dog training classes with a dog that pulls on the leash like a steam train.
I would say that
- it is perfectly normal for a young or untrained dog to want to move about a little, rather than to walk totally in one particular position to heel.
- and it is easier and much more effective in the long run to guide the dog towards the right position than to try and force it into that position.
See, the more you push, the more the dog pushes back.
Ok, so there‘s ways and methods such as check (or choke) chains that inflict pain every time the dog moves out of position. There‘s also such things as sound devices or ways to handle the leash in such a way that the dog gets a nasty "shock" when it pulls ahead. And these methods work a treat if you‘re a good handler, have done it lots of times before, and can handle yourself, leashs, dogs, and devices congruently and at the same time.
However, normal people don‘t have these specialist skills, and their dogs know it, and that‘s why these methods don‘t work very well for most normal people.
So now, here‘s a nice, evolutionary method to have a dog that walks somewhere with you, because it likes you, and it has lots of times when it‘s off the leash anyway, companionably, happily, and without you having to do anything than just enjoy it‘s company and the countryside.
Walking Nicely On The leash - Action Plan
1. Find a route that is reasonably safe, reasonably distraction free, and can be completed in ten minutes or less.
It could be just round the block, or up and down the lane - it doesn‘t matter if it‘s boring or if it has many distractions, as long as you get there as soon as you walk out of your house.
This route will become your practise track for walking nicely on the leash.
The reason this is so important is that a lot of owners only walk to their place of exercise every single day, and the dog gets to believe that it needs to pull them all the way, else they‘d never get there! These self same owners usually make the comment that "it‘s not so bad on the way home"!
2. Put your dog on the long line, or the training leash, and give it some rope.
In practise, this means that you loosen the leash right out so your dog cannot feel it anymore. (I do hope you‘ve got hold of this book before you were in a position where the dog just runs hell for leather and doesn‘t care if you follow or not. If that‘s your problem, go to the special section for Steam Train Pullers instead).
For your first attempt, the assignment is to get round your practise route with the leash being loose as much as possible.
- yes, you‘re going to get tangled in the leash, wrapped round lamp posts or bushes, to begin with. And yes, you‘re going to learn the art of handling a leash in such a way that this doesn‘t happen anymore after a week of this.
It‘s an immensely valuable skill that will stand you in good stead with every dog you‘ll ever own, and something you‘ll never learn if you buy a Flexi-type leash with the big clumsy box at the end of it.
- use the leash to bring your dog back if it‘s going somewhere inappropriate. If you‘re walking in a town, your dog will need to learn to distinguish the pavement and the verge from the actual road. Tell the dog over and over, "Stay on the pavement, that‘s a good boy (or girl)." After a week of this, your dog will know.
- use the leash to make your dog sit at road intersections, if there are any on your walk. Again, speak to your dog. Tell him about sitting because of the danger of traffic. The more you talk to your dog with real intent and real meaning, the more he or she will listen to you.
- to begin with, be very flexible in your speed. Stop for a while if your dog wants to sniff something, speed up a little when your dog picks up speed. The first commandment is to keep the leash loose.
- to begin with, be flexible whether the dog‘s on your left, or on your right, or in front of you, or behind you. As long as the leash‘s loose, and the dog‘s still moving in roughly the same direction, that‘s fine. You‘re both going to get home again. That‘s all that‘s required.
- the only thing you should strongly object to is if your dog suddenly lunges into some direction or the other, or hits the end of the long line sharply. Call your dog back and tell him or her right away that this is not on, that it could be dangerous for both of you, and that you‘re just going round the block (or up and down the lane).
Do this on one particular practise track twice or three times a day for about a week. Once you feel that both of you have got the hang of the basics (i.e. you know how to handle the leash so it‘s loose all the time you‘re not actually using it to make an important correction, and how to encourage your dog not to lunge, to stay on the pavement and to sit at intersections, if any, and your dog has relaxed and learned that you just kind of walk this particular walk together), you can:
- begin to encourage the dog to be on the left or right of you, using an appropriate encouragement;
- to walk closely with you for a short period of time with full attention (just a few steps close by your side with the leash completely slack is fine, then just let him wander along again);
- take a break and do a bit of training such as stay or come.
Over a period of a month or so, lengthen the time you are actually requesting your dog to walk in the normal heelwork position by your side gently and steadily. The instruction I use for this is "Walk closely." When the dog is in a close position by my left or right leg, depending on the circumstance, I look down and praise it gently whilst we‘re walking along: "Well, this is nice, isn‘t it? You and me, just poodling along the old lane ... (etc.)"
When you‘re happy that you and your dog can walk companionably with each other on your practise route, you can exchange the long line for the proper five foot leash (which also must be loose at all times you‘re not actually giving a direct instruction to your dog and even then, only if a verbal instruction has been ignored).
Then, you can start varying your route and gradually introduce more distractions along the way, always making sure that you‘re asking no more of your dog in the way of understanding, good behavior and co-operation than your dog is ready to give to you, depending on his or her age, prior training experience, and current level and standard of training.
If you follow this outline, in a couple of months at the most you will have arrived at a point where your dog is walking along happily not because it‘s afraid it‘ll get hurt if it doesn‘t, but simply because the two of you have built up a mutual rapport and understanding of what going out for a walk together is all about - being aware of each other‘s movements, and behaving in such a way that you‘re both having a good time in each other‘s company.
Walking On The leash For Steam Train Pullers
Sometimes, you may have to re-train a re-homed or rescued dog that pulls no matter how long the leash is, and pulls flat out, like a steam train. For these dogs, we need a slightly modified approach.
Firstly, I would recommend the use of a head collar, such as the Halti or Fig.8 collar.
Secondly, a normal leash of five to six foot will be of more use.
Thirdly, use the very best food you can find to reward any attempt at co-operation.
Fourthly, whatever "command" the dog has ever heard regards this activity must be firmly placed in the rubbish bin from now on, because it has by now become a signal to start pulling. Use words that sound completely different instead.
Fifthly, use your practise track when your dog is as tired as possible; i.e. just after a long walk*. Another very useful tip is to walk it once, come inside, and straight out again - and then again.
*A safety note: Very young puppies, older puppies of large boned or slow developing breeds, and rescued dogs who are unfit due to kennelling or mismanagement can suffer serious health problems if over-exercised. Please ask your veterinary surgeon, breeder or other dog professional for advice if you‘re even slightly unsure about how much exercise is advised for your dog or puppy.
The reason that even the most dyed in the wool pullers will be able to learn through this method is that it‘s simply impossible for a dog to sustain top levels of excitement over walking the practise track if it‘s done three times on the trot, three times a day, seven days a week.
If you are short on time, just do a shorter practise track - but do it!
Walk the practise track at least three times, three times a day. If there‘s more than one of you in the household, do it each three times a day. Again, after a while the dog will relax on the practise track and the leash will be loose more than it will be tight. Once the dog is usually relaxed on the practise track, introduce all the methods from the section above.
Walking nicely off the leash
As you can see from the section before, the fact that sooner or later your dog will be walking without the leash is actually built into this kind of leash training right from the start. As you are continuously striving to keep the leash loose and your rapport and understanding with your dog improves, there comes a time quite naturally when your dog will be ready to walk off the leash with you. To make the transition from on the leash to off the leash:
1. Firstly, remember to be safe rather than sorry. Even a very well behaved dog can sometimes run off if the temptation is strong enough - say, another dog taunting it across the road, or a cat, or perhaps a car misfiring very close by. Walk completely off leash only where you can be sure you will be safe.
2. Once your dog is walking pretty reliably with you, put it on the long line. But instead of holding onto it, just throw it over your shoulder and tuck the rest into a pocket. Walk normally and do not hold on to the leash. Use it only if you really need to, and always precede the use of the leash with a verbal instruction first (you will find that this alleviates the need to use the leash at all, half the time anyway).
3. Once you‘re happy with that, let your dog drag the line for a while just to be sure.
Walking nicely everywhere
Once your dog is good on the practise track, begin to extend the walks and the locations as described in the section on How A Dog Learns. Eventually, the dog will make the cross over to be able to reproduce his or her learning in any location.
To conclude this section, let me say that this is a very friendly, very easy way to train most dogs to walk with you in a civilised fashion in a relatively short period of time, providing you make an effort for a month or so to really teach your dog. If for whatever reason your dog begins to wander off or starts to pull later, go back to the old practise route to remind him/her of the original training.
Get Back & Walk On
Two instructions that are very useful in conjunction with walking on the leash, amongst others, are Get Back and Walk On, respectively.
The Get Back instruction means that the dog should move into a position slightly behind you and remain behind you. We have learned this from dog behavior studies - the "pack leasher" is in a forward position, both as a look out and decision maker.
As this is a normal dog behavior, it is easy to teach and dogs understand it very quickly. It has many practical applications, from the aforementioned walking on the leash, to being able to open the door to people and being both protected by the dog, yet the dog under full control, putting the visitor at ease.
Get Back - Action Plan
Walk through your house with your dog on the leash. In doorways, stop, use your leash and a stopping motion with your left hand, asking the dog to "get back", so you can walk through the doorway first. Also try this going up and down the stairs, through garden gates or narrow passageways. Look over your left shoulder, and tell the dog you‘re very pleased.
The other side of the coin is the Walk On Instruction. This asks your dog to walk on and leash the way.
We borrowed this instruction from horse trainers, because there are so many occasions when it is useful to ask the dog to go first, be it because you wish to close the door behind both of you, or any other situation where it is more convenient for you to herd your dog(s) whilst you bring up the rear.
Walk On - Action Plan
When you‘re out for a walk, wait until your dog stops naturally to sniff something.
Give a brief nudge on the leash (like you would flick a horse‘s reins) and encourage the dog to "Walk On", praising when they‘ve picked up speed.
Often, you can find narrow passageways or corridors (failing this, you may construct such a corridor with a few chairs in your dining room or in your garden). Walk up to it and encourage your dog to leash the way by telling it to "walk on".
Practise both this and the Get Back so you can be flexible in who goes first.
Indoors, you can practise this instruction when your dog is already on it‘s way, out into the garden or into another room, putting the words "Walk On" onto a naturally occurring situation.
These two instructions will give both you and your dog/s a great deal of behavioral flexibility both indoors and out, and are very useful indeed for many different situations.
Article
by Silvia Kent, Author, Dynamic Dog Training.
More useful articles and free downloads at http://A1Dog.com
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More useful articles and free downloads at http://A1Dog.com
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WALKING ON A LOOSE LEAD
Next accustom him to you holding on to his collar because you will have to do this to attach the lead. Take his collar gently with one hand and give him a treat with the other. Increase the length of time that you hold on to him, again making sure that it is a pleasant experience for him.
Before attempting to get your puppy to walk on a lead teach him the benefits of walking beside you around the house and the garden without a lead on by giving him his dinner one piece at a time as he walks with you. Once he is happy to walk along with you in this way attach the lead to his collar and loop the other end over your wrist or tuck it into your belt and do exactly the same. Hey presto! Dog walking on loose lead.
Providing that you are praising and rewarding your puppy when he is walking beside you and that you are not pulling on the lead, then the chances are that he will always walk beside you. Most dogs pull only because we give them something to pull against.
All of this should be done well in advance of puppy's first walk in the big wide world.
If your dog becomes over excited at the sight or sound of the lead because it means 'walkies' insist that he sits whilst you put it on. If he refuses then put the lead away and try again in 5 minutes. It is better to spend 1 hour putting on and taking off the lead whilst your dog remains calm than to spend 12 years being dragged to the park and back!
If you leave the house calmly, continue praising and rewarding whilst he walks beside you and stop the praise (say nothing) and stand still if he pulls ahead, then he will never learn to pull on the lead. He must still be allowed to stop and sniff occasionally providing that the lead doesn't go tight.
This method will work equally well with the dog that has already learnt to pull. It will just take more time and patience.
Look at things from the dog's point of view. He's pulling on the lead because he is in a rush to get to the park. He's also happy in the knowledge that you're still there behind him because he can feel you pulling on the other end and hear you shouting "heel" at him! In other words pulling is rewarding!
So let's change this concept. If he pulls on the lead it's because he wants you to take another step forward. REFUSE! Stand still and stop talking to him. Even walk backwards away from what he is pulling towards if necessary. Reward only the desired behaviour. A loose lead.
It is important that your lead is of sufficient length to allow it to stay loose. If it is very short, you wind it around your hand or you pull it up or back then your dog will have little opportunity to keep it loose.
The more accustomed your dog becomes to pressure around his neck, the more he will pull.
Do not rely on your lead to control your dog. It is the least reliable form of control. If you accidentally drop it or it breaks then you will probably lose your dog. If he rarely feels pressure around his neck then apart from the fact that you're unlikely to drop the lead or have it break, if it did he would not be aware and would continue to walk beside you anyway!
If your dog was at the front of the queue when persistence was handed out and you were at the back of the patience queue then you may wish to consider using a head collar such as a Gentle Leader, Halti or figure of eight design. There are also harnesses on the market that are designed to stop a dog wanting to pull. Never resort to a choke chain. The theory that a dog will stop pulling if you choke him or give him a sharp jerk around the neck is a very outdated one. You could cause untold damage to his neck, vertebrae, voice box and coat.
For more information e-mail: info@scallywagsdogs.com
reprinted with kind permission from Sally
http://www.scallywagsdogs.com
reprinted with kind permission from Sally
http://www.scallywagsdogs.com
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Walking Nicely on the Leash
www.canineconcepts.co.ukHow to use Gentle Leader & Halti Head collars
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| The Halti
Collar |
The Gentle
Leader |
Pulling on the
lead is one of the few unpleasant experiences of bringing up a new puppy
or dog. In recent years dog head collars have revolutionised our ability
to help train good lead walking manners, as well as being a useful training
aid to help keep your dog's attention. Although fairly straight forward
to use, it is important that head collars are correctly fitted and that
your dog be properly acclimatised to them:
How should the collar fit?
Both the Gentle Leader and Halti collars should fit fairly snugly such that one finger can fit under the strap that fastens behind the ears. The nose strap should locate no closer than 15mm from your dog's eyes. On the Gentle Leader, the clip should tighten under the chin such that only one finger fits.
How do I acclimatise my dog to the collar?
It will take a week or so to acclimatise your dog to a head collar. But these tips should help smooth the way:
Have some tasty treats at hand.
Place the head collar over your hand such that it hangs around your wrist.
With the same hand, hold a treat with your fingers and offer it to your dog, but holding the treat such that they have to nibble at it. As your dog is nibbling the treat, simultaneously slide the collar over its face.
Now release the treat and while they are munching away, finish fitting the clasp. Give your dog another treat and praise them warmly.
At this point it is important to keep your dog distracted- either by you playing with him or letting your dog use its favourite toy. After 2-3 minutes remove the collar and play for a few more minutes.
Repeat this 3-4 times a day for the first week and only playing with your dog whilst they are wearing the head collar. As you progress, start to introduce a command word that your dog can start to associate with the collar being fitted. Don't use a lead until your have completed this stage.
Once your dog is able to wear the collar for 5 minutes without distraction (i.e. scratching or trying to remove it), attach his lead and continue playing with them for a few minutes. Repeat this until your dog is not distracted by the head collar or lead.
Once your dog is acclimatised, gradually build up the time your dog spends wearing the head collar and lead to the point you can take short walks.
IMPORTANT:
Remember, keep this a positive experience for your dog and don't try to achieve too much in one go.
Don't allow your dog to wear a head collar unsupervised. This will give them a chance to learn how to remove them.
Never tug your lead hard when your dog is wearing a head collar. This may cause them neck injuries.
For the same reason, never use retractable or very long leads as these may allow your dog pick up speed before the lead takes up.
THE GENTLE LEADER®
offers you a whole new concept in the control, training and management
of your dog. No matter what the breed, size or age of your dog, the Gentle
Leader provides ’power steering’, kind control and effective leadership,
and makes training at home quick, simple and fun.
It’s the only patented canine headcollar in the world because of its unique action and effect on the way your dog behaves and communicates.
EASY TO FIT
EASY TO USE
WILL NOT FALL OFF YOUR DOG’S NOSE
SOFT STRONG NYLON WEBBING
COMFORTABLE TO WEAR
WILL NOT RIDE UP INTO YOUR DOG’S EYES
Dogs have a natural instinct to pull against pressure and dogs waIked on choke or regular collars still pull, even though pressure on the throat causes pain and choking and even though their owners rnay yank, tug and shout to try and stop them.
The Gentle Leader does not choke your dog. It is scientifically designed to direct your dog’s entire body by controlling his head and nose. And wherever his nose goes, his body must surely follow!
The Gentle Leader dissuades your dog from pulling on the lead by transferring the pressure of his efforts to the back of his neck via the neckstrap, while the pressure of the noseloop communicates your natural leadership. Your dog’s instinctive resistance to these redirected pressures causes him to stop pulling to relieve the pressure at the back of the head and to relax and walk easily by your side. Full fitting and training guide included
THE PROPER FIT - AN ABSOLUTE MUST!
Gentle Leader® fits differently than other collars or halters you may have used before! Without a proper fit, you may experience unnecessary problems - excessive pawing, rubbing and resistance, or chafing of the nose. The Nose Loop needs to be as loose and comfortable as possible, moving freely from just in front of the eyes to the beginning of the fleshy part of the nose - but NOT so loose that it can come off. The proper fit of the Nose Loop is totally dependent on the proper fit of the Neck Strap, which must be high at the very top of the neck (touching the skull) and very snug (only one finger barely squeezes underneath) so that it cannot rotate. (If the Neck Strap rotates, so will the Nose Loop, which may cause chafing of the skin.) When properly fitted and viewed from the side, Gentle Leader® will resemble a "V" for "Victory"!, not an "L" for "Loser."
The Neck Strap MUST:
Be positioned as high on the neck as possible, directly behind the ears and touching the base of the skull in back, and above the Adam's apple in front. Not be able to rotate around neck. Fit very snugly at top of neck so that you can barely squeeze only one finger underneath, like a belt, watchband or shoe. This is the MOST important part of the entire fitting process! It is different than other collars you may be used to, but does not cause discomfort to your dog. (To better understand, push against the very top of your throat above your Adam's apple; now use the same pressure below your Adam's apple - notice that pressure above is not uncomfortable, but pressure below is!) Please resist the temptation to make the Neck Strap loose - if you loosen it, either your dog will be able to paw the Nose Loop off, or you will wind up making the Nose Loop too tight or the Nose Loop will rotate causing discomfort.
The Nose Loop should:
Be loose and comfortable so that your dog can freely open his mouth (even fetch a ball!).
Be able to move freely from just in front of eyes to beginning of the fleshy (wet) part of nose.
Rest behind the corners of mouth.
Not be so loose that it can be pulled off over the nose (after snap clamp is adjusted).
FITTING STEP BY STEP
Throughout the fitting process and during initial use of the Gentle Leader®, motivate and encourage your dog with praise and special tasty treats. If your dog is especially wiggly, have someone help you by feeding treats while you fit and adjust.
When your dog has reached
full growth, you can remove any excess length of Neck Strap. With the
Gentle Leader® off your dog, cut the end of the strap with scissors
and use a match or lighter flame to seal the cut edge and prevent fraying.
CAUTION: Follow instructions carefully when fitting and using on Bulldogs and other breeds with genetically limited airways or flat noses. It is typical for these dogs to frequently experience breathing difficulties when exercising or under stress because of their physically limited airways. If their usual breathing difficulties increase when wearing the headcollar, immediately discontinue and consult your veterinarian.
Now includes a FREE Halti Link
If you have a large powerful dog or one that pulls on the lead, you will know how exhausting walks can be. Dogs of all sizes can pull on the lead to the point of choking themselves.
The Halti was designed by Dr Roger Mugford to come to the rescue of such dogs and their owners. Its revolutionary design is based on the same principle as a horse’s headcollar - if you guide the head, the body will surely follow.
Naturally following the contours of a dogs face and positioned well down the
dog’s nose, the Halti gives you maximum steering power and control.
The particular advantage of the Halti is its unique on-off muzzle-closing
effect: when the dog attempts to lunge forward or attack, his jaws are
closed by the slip ring. When he is relaxed or friendly, he can pant easily
and act just like a dog. The soft material and careful design and construction
ensures the Halti is comfortable and in many dogs can create a pronounced
calming effect.
Halti comes in six sizes and for dogs with sensitive noses such as Boxers or Shar Pei’s we recommend a padded Halti. To find out which size is suitable for your dog, please refer to our size guide.
purchase here
http://canineconcepts.co.uk/item--The-HALTI-Head-Collar--halti
How does the Canny
Collar work?
The Canny Collar works by a simple ‘pressure and release’ system to stop your dog from pulling. The lead is attached to a slip line behind your dog’s head which then fits over his snout. When your dog is pulling on the lead, gentle pressure is applied to the bridge of his snout. As soon as he learns to stop pulling, the pressure is released. This method of training means that your dog quickly realises that by walking at your side and not pulling on the lead, both of you can enjoy your walk without either one of you choking or panting!
The Canny Collar does not jerk the head sideways (which in some cases can cause injury to your dog’s neck) nor ride up into the eyes. As it operates from both sides of your dog’s head, gentle pressure is all that is needed for the Canny Collar to work. It is a kind, safe and effective method of training.
Pulling on the lead is a thing of the past with a Canny Collar. Make training your dog easy and give yourself complete control over who takes who for a walk!
The Halti Dog Harness is a new concept to the world of dogs where
you take control with little effort or need for skill. Designed by Dr
Roger Mugford, the Halti Dog Harness stops pulling, calms over-boisterous
dogs and simplifies training and behavioural therapy. It steers the dog
from the chest: an efficient point of control.
The benefit of a properly used Halti Dog Harness is that it gives total control over the dog’s shoulders and thus sets the direction in which he can move. Best used in conjunction with the double ended Halti Training Lead linked to both the chest and shoulder rings of the harness.
The new, patented Halti Dog Harness is available in three sizes: small, medium and large.
How should the collar fit?
Both the Gentle Leader and Halti collars should fit fairly snugly such that one finger can fit under the strap that fastens behind the ears. The nose strap should locate no closer than 15mm from your dog's eyes. On the Gentle Leader, the clip should tighten under the chin such that only one finger fits.
How do I acclimatise my dog to the collar?
It will take a week or so to acclimatise your dog to a head collar. But these tips should help smooth the way:
Have some tasty treats at hand.
Place the head collar over your hand such that it hangs around your wrist.
With the same hand, hold a treat with your fingers and offer it to your dog, but holding the treat such that they have to nibble at it. As your dog is nibbling the treat, simultaneously slide the collar over its face.
Now release the treat and while they are munching away, finish fitting the clasp. Give your dog another treat and praise them warmly.
At this point it is important to keep your dog distracted- either by you playing with him or letting your dog use its favourite toy. After 2-3 minutes remove the collar and play for a few more minutes.
Repeat this 3-4 times a day for the first week and only playing with your dog whilst they are wearing the head collar. As you progress, start to introduce a command word that your dog can start to associate with the collar being fitted. Don't use a lead until your have completed this stage.
Once your dog is able to wear the collar for 5 minutes without distraction (i.e. scratching or trying to remove it), attach his lead and continue playing with them for a few minutes. Repeat this until your dog is not distracted by the head collar or lead.
Once your dog is acclimatised, gradually build up the time your dog spends wearing the head collar and lead to the point you can take short walks.
IMPORTANT:
Remember, keep this a positive experience for your dog and don't try to achieve too much in one go.
Don't allow your dog to wear a head collar unsupervised. This will give them a chance to learn how to remove them.
Never tug your lead hard when your dog is wearing a head collar. This may cause them neck injuries.
For the same reason, never use retractable or very long leads as these may allow your dog pick up speed before the lead takes up.
The Gentle Leader
THE GENTLE LEADER®
offers you a whole new concept in the control, training and management
of your dog. No matter what the breed, size or age of your dog, the Gentle
Leader provides ’power steering’, kind control and effective leadership,
and makes training at home quick, simple and fun.It’s the only patented canine headcollar in the world because of its unique action and effect on the way your dog behaves and communicates.
EASY TO FIT
EASY TO USE
WILL NOT FALL OFF YOUR DOG’S NOSE
SOFT STRONG NYLON WEBBING
COMFORTABLE TO WEAR
WILL NOT RIDE UP INTO YOUR DOG’S EYES
Dogs have a natural instinct to pull against pressure and dogs waIked on choke or regular collars still pull, even though pressure on the throat causes pain and choking and even though their owners rnay yank, tug and shout to try and stop them.
The Gentle Leader does not choke your dog. It is scientifically designed to direct your dog’s entire body by controlling his head and nose. And wherever his nose goes, his body must surely follow!
The Gentle Leader dissuades your dog from pulling on the lead by transferring the pressure of his efforts to the back of his neck via the neckstrap, while the pressure of the noseloop communicates your natural leadership. Your dog’s instinctive resistance to these redirected pressures causes him to stop pulling to relieve the pressure at the back of the head and to relax and walk easily by your side. Full fitting and training guide included
THE PROPER FIT - AN ABSOLUTE MUST!
Gentle Leader® fits differently than other collars or halters you may have used before! Without a proper fit, you may experience unnecessary problems - excessive pawing, rubbing and resistance, or chafing of the nose. The Nose Loop needs to be as loose and comfortable as possible, moving freely from just in front of the eyes to the beginning of the fleshy part of the nose - but NOT so loose that it can come off. The proper fit of the Nose Loop is totally dependent on the proper fit of the Neck Strap, which must be high at the very top of the neck (touching the skull) and very snug (only one finger barely squeezes underneath) so that it cannot rotate. (If the Neck Strap rotates, so will the Nose Loop, which may cause chafing of the skin.) When properly fitted and viewed from the side, Gentle Leader® will resemble a "V" for "Victory"!, not an "L" for "Loser."
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|
Be positioned as high on the neck as possible, directly behind the ears and touching the base of the skull in back, and above the Adam's apple in front. Not be able to rotate around neck. Fit very snugly at top of neck so that you can barely squeeze only one finger underneath, like a belt, watchband or shoe. This is the MOST important part of the entire fitting process! It is different than other collars you may be used to, but does not cause discomfort to your dog. (To better understand, push against the very top of your throat above your Adam's apple; now use the same pressure below your Adam's apple - notice that pressure above is not uncomfortable, but pressure below is!) Please resist the temptation to make the Neck Strap loose - if you loosen it, either your dog will be able to paw the Nose Loop off, or you will wind up making the Nose Loop too tight or the Nose Loop will rotate causing discomfort.
The Nose Loop should:
Be loose and comfortable so that your dog can freely open his mouth (even fetch a ball!).
Be able to move freely from just in front of eyes to beginning of the fleshy (wet) part of nose.
Rest behind the corners of mouth.
Not be so loose that it can be pulled off over the nose (after snap clamp is adjusted).
FITTING STEP BY STEP
Throughout the fitting process and during initial use of the Gentle Leader®, motivate and encourage your dog with praise and special tasty treats. If your dog is especially wiggly, have someone help you by feeding treats while you fit and adjust.
1. Attach leash to Control Ring. (Fig. A) |
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2. Open Neck Strap and hold one end in each hand. Nose Loop and leash should hang down, like the letter (T). (Fig. B) |
|
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| 3. Prefit Neck Strap high on
the neck touching base of skull in back, with Center Bar Ring in the niche
just above the Adam's apple in front. Center Bar Ring should be parallel
to neck, not the underside of jawbone. (Fig. C-1) Neck Strap must be snug
so that only one finger can squeeze under it, and it cannot rotate around
neck. Gently grasp skin at back of neck and pull downward toward shoulders,
while at the same time holding Neck Strap against base of skull - this pulls
any excess skin or coat from under the Neck Strap, improving the fit. Check
again to be sure that only one finger can barely squeeze under Neck Strap,
and tighten if needed. (Fig. C-2) Notice that even though the Neck Strap
fits much more snugly than other collars, your dog is comfortable, able to
easily pant and shows no signs of distress. Give him a treat and see for
yourself that he acts as if nothing is even there! (If using "Buckle"-style
Neck Strap, mark the appropriate hole for future reference.) |
|
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4. Take Neck Strap off your dog. Slide Adjustable Snap Clamp down to Control Ring (as in Fig. A). (To open, lift tab with thumb, dime or key; to close press tab until it snaps into locked position. The snap is designed to lock firmly into place and not slip - therefore, it requires a bit of pressure to open and close.). |
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5. Pull Nose Loop up through Center Bar Ring. (Fig. D) |
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6. With dog at your side or between your legs, hold Nose Loop open. Reach under dog's head to slip Nose Loop onto base of muzzle (Fig. E-1), and give a treat to keep him occupied. Snap Neck Strap high on neck at its prefitted position. (Fig E-2) (Some people find that taking a few moments to gently "massage" their dog's muzzle and cheeks prior to putting on the Nose Loop may help him more quickly accept the new sensation.) |
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7. Make final adjustment to Nose Loop. It should be behind corners of mouth and loose enough to pull forward to fleshy part of nose, but not so loose that it can be pulled entirely off muzzle. Slide snap clamp up or down to adjust (Fig. F-1). With thumb and index finger, pinch Nose Loop underneath snap clamp, temporarily holding it from moving. Test size of Nose Loop by pulling it forward as far as it will go (Fig. F-2). When it touches the beginning of the fleshy part of the nose, but is not so loose that you can pull it off, close the snap clamp by pressing down on the tab - you'll hear a snap as it locks. |
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CAUTION: Follow instructions carefully when fitting and using on Bulldogs and other breeds with genetically limited airways or flat noses. It is typical for these dogs to frequently experience breathing difficulties when exercising or under stress because of their physically limited airways. If their usual breathing difficulties increase when wearing the headcollar, immediately discontinue and consult your veterinarian.
| SIZE GUIDE |
|||
| X-Small |
Small |
Medium |
Large |
| Tiny Toy Breeds, small/medium puppiesl
|
Toy Poodle, Lhasa Apso, Westie, Yorkie,
Jack Russell , Medium/Large puppies |
Cocker, Springer, Collie, Staffy, Labrador,
Dobermann, GSD, Boxer |
Great Dane, Rottweiler, Newfoundland,
Large Labs & GSDs |
| Watch the
Video |
The Gentle Leader
Headcollar It's the Double D Ring that makes the difference! |
purchase here
The HALTI Head Collar
Now includes a FREE Halti LinkIf you have a large powerful dog or one that pulls on the lead, you will know how exhausting walks can be. Dogs of all sizes can pull on the lead to the point of choking themselves.
The Halti was designed by Dr Roger Mugford to come to the rescue of such dogs and their owners. Its revolutionary design is based on the same principle as a horse’s headcollar - if you guide the head, the body will surely follow.
Naturally following the contours of a dogs face and positioned well down the
dog’s nose, the Halti gives you maximum steering power and control.
The particular advantage of the Halti is its unique on-off muzzle-closing
effect: when the dog attempts to lunge forward or attack, his jaws are
closed by the slip ring. When he is relaxed or friendly, he can pant easily
and act just like a dog. The soft material and careful design and construction
ensures the Halti is comfortable and in many dogs can create a pronounced
calming effect. Halti comes in six sizes and for dogs with sensitive noses such as Boxers or Shar Pei’s we recommend a padded Halti. To find out which size is suitable for your dog, please refer to our size guide.
| HALTI Size Chart. |
||||||||||
| BREED |
HALTI |
BREED |
HALTI |
BREED |
HALTI |
|||||
| Afghan Hound |
3 |
Airedale |
3 |
Alaskan Malamute |
3 |
|||||
| American C/Span |
1 |
Basenji |
1 |
Bassett Hound |
3 |
|||||
| Beagle |
2 |
Bearded Collie |
2 |
Bedlington Terrier |
2 |
|||||
| Belgian S/Dog |
2-3 |
Bernese Mt/Dog |
4 |
Bichon Frisé |
0 |
|||||
| Bloodhound |
5 |
Border Collie |
2-2 |
Border Terrier |
1 |
|||||
| Borzoi |
4 |
Boston Terrier |
† |
Bouvier |
4 |
|||||
| Boxer |
3 |
Briard |
3 |
Brittany Spaniel |
2 |
|||||
| Buhund |
1 |
Bulldog |
† |
Bull Mastiff |
4 |
|||||
| Bull Terrier |
3 |
Cairn Terrier |
1 |
Cavalier Spaniel |
1 |
|||||
| Chow Chow |
3 |
Clumber Spaniel |
4 |
Cocker (Eng) |
2 |
|||||
| Corgi |
1 |
Dachshund Min. |
0 |
Dachshund Std. |
1 |
|||||
| Dalmatian |
3 |
Dobermann |
3-3 |
Elkhound |
3 |
|||||
| English Setter |
3 |
Flat Coated Retriever |
3-3 |
Foxhound |
3 |
|||||
| Fox Terrier |
1 |
German Shepherd |
3-4 |
Goats |
2-3 |
|||||
| Golden Retriever |
3 |
Gordon Setter |
4 |
Great Dane |
4-5 |
|||||
| Greyhound |
3 |
Irish Setter |
3 |
Irish Water Spaniel |
L |
|||||
| Irish Wolfhound |
4 |
Jack Russell |
0-1 |
Japanese Akita |
3-4 |
|||||
| Keeshund |
2 |
Kerry BlueTerrier |
2 |
King Charles Spaniel |
† |
|||||
| Labrador |
3 |
Lakeland Terrier |
1 |
Lhasa Apso |
† |
|||||
| Llamas |
2-4 |
Lurcher |
2-3 |
Maltese |
0 |
|||||
| Maremma S/Dog |
3 |
Mastiff |
5 |
Munsterlander |
3 |
|||||
| Newfoundland |
4 |
Old English Sheepdog |
3 |
Papillon |
† |
|||||
| Pekingese |
† |
Pharaoh Hound |
2 |
Pigs |
† |
|||||
| Pit Bull Terrier |
2 |
Pointers |
3 |
Poodle Toy |
0 |
|||||
| Poodle Min. |
1 |
Poodle Std. |
2-3 |
Pug |
† |
|||||
| Pyrenean M/Dog |
4 |
Rhodesian Rbk. |
4 |
Rottweiler |
4 |
|||||
| Rough Collie |
2-3 |
St Bernard |
5 |
Saluki |
2 |
|||||
| Samoyed |
2 |
Schnauzer Min |
1 |
Schnauzer |
2 |
|||||
| Schnauzer Gt. |
4 |
Scottish Terrier |
2 |
Shar Pei |
2 |
|||||
| Sheep |
2-3 |
Sheltie |
1 |
Shih Tzu |
† |
|||||
| Siberian Husky |
3 |
Soft-coated Wheaten Terrier |
2 |
Springer Spaniel |
3 |
|||||
| Staffordshire Bull Terrier |
2 |
Weimaraner |
3-3 |
Welsh Terrier |
2 |
|||||
| West Highland Terrier |
1 |
Whippet |
1 |
Yorkshire Terrier |
0 |
|||||
| † Not recommended |
||||||||||
purchase here
http://canineconcepts.co.uk/item--The-HALTI-Head-Collar--halti
Canny Non-pull Collar
|
Stops your dog pulling Gives control for walking, training and rehabilitation of dogs Doesn’t jerk the neck Doesn’t ride up into the eyes Suitable for all breeds Simple to use |
The Canny Collar works by a simple ‘pressure and release’ system to stop your dog from pulling. The lead is attached to a slip line behind your dog’s head which then fits over his snout. When your dog is pulling on the lead, gentle pressure is applied to the bridge of his snout. As soon as he learns to stop pulling, the pressure is released. This method of training means that your dog quickly realises that by walking at your side and not pulling on the lead, both of you can enjoy your walk without either one of you choking or panting!
The Canny Collar does not jerk the head sideways (which in some cases can cause injury to your dog’s neck) nor ride up into the eyes. As it operates from both sides of your dog’s head, gentle pressure is all that is needed for the Canny Collar to work. It is a kind, safe and effective method of training.
Pulling on the lead is a thing of the past with a Canny Collar. Make training your dog easy and give yourself complete control over who takes who for a walk!
Which size?The Canny Collar must fit snuggly. Measure your dog’s neck behind the ears and use the sizing guide below: |
||||
| Size |
Neck Measurement |
Typical Breed |
||
| 1 |
23-28 cm (9-11 in) |
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel |
||
| 2 |
28-33 cm (11-13 in) |
Terriers - Jack Russell, Westies, etc
|
||
| 3 |
33-38 cm (13-15 in) |
Beagle, Border Collie, Cocker Spaniel,
Springer Spaniel, Staffies |
||
| 4 |
38-43 cm (15-17 in) |
Bearded Collie, Boxer, Dalmatian, Doberman,
German Shepherd, Golden Retriever, Labrador, Rhodesian Ridgeback, Staffies,
Weimaraner |
||
| 5 |
43-48 cm (17-19 in) |
Akita, Bullmastiff, German Shepherd,
Golden Retriever, Labrador, Rhodesian Ridgeback, Rottweiler |
||
| 6 |
48-53 cm (19-21 in) |
Akita, Bullmastiff, Great Dane, Rottweiler
|
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Fitting Instruction
|
Picture
|
| 1) Fasten the Canny Collar around your
dog’s neck, ensuring the buckle is positioned just behind the ears at
the back of his neck. Fold any excess collar and tuck it under the buckle.
The Canny Collar should fit higher up than a conventional collar, as shown. |
|
| 2) A snug fit is essential to ensure
it cannot come off your dog whilst walking. Test the collar by trying
to pull it off your dog’s head – if fitted correctly, this should not be
possible. |
|
| 3) Pull each end of the thin slip line
behind your dog’s head and attach your lead to both ‘D’ rings at each
end. |
|
| 4) Pull the slip line through the small
black or yellow plastic guider at the front of the collar and place over
your dog’s snout. With some breeds, it may be easier to do this before
attaching the lead. Take care not to twist the slip line before placing
it over your dog’s snout. |
|
| 5) Ensure you leave the plastic guider
under your dog’s chin. |
|
| 6) Now you’re ready for your walk. |
|
| 7) When walking, your lead should be
kept short but loose so you can control your dog quickly and easily.
An extendable lead is not recommended for use with the Canny Collar as
the slip lead may not remain in place. |
|
| 8) When your dog pulls on the lead, apply
gentle pressure by tightening the lead. Instant release of the pressure occurs
when he stops pulling. This pressure and release system is how your dog trains
himself to stop pulling. Within a short time, he will be walking happily
by your side on a loose lead. |
|
| 9) Some dogs may resist the first time
you put the slip line over their face and try to paw it off. You must
continue to walk and lift his head by raising your lead.
|
|
| 10) Instantly release the pressure by
lowering your lead when he stops resisting. Once the initial resistance
has stopped, release all pressure. Keep walking while giving him vocal
praise, then stop and praise him lavishly. |
|
|
Stops your dog pulling Forward control for walking, training and rehabilitation of dogs Suitable for all breeds Comfortable, padded design |
The Halti Dog Harness is a new concept to the world of dogs where
you take control with little effort or need for skill. Designed by Dr
Roger Mugford, the Halti Dog Harness stops pulling, calms over-boisterous
dogs and simplifies training and behavioural therapy. It steers the dog
from the chest: an efficient point of control. The benefit of a properly used Halti Dog Harness is that it gives total control over the dog’s shoulders and thus sets the direction in which he can move. Best used in conjunction with the double ended Halti Training Lead linked to both the chest and shoulder rings of the harness.
The new, patented Halti Dog Harness is available in three sizes: small, medium and large.
| Size |
Chest |
Typical Breed |
| Small |
300-600mm |
Jack Russell, Corgi, Terrier |
| Medium |
600-800mm |
Lab, retriever, Collie |
| Large |
800mm+ |
Great Dane, Mastiff, Rottweiler |
purchase here
http://www.canineconcepts.co.uk/item--Halti-Harness--halti-harness
These are beautifully made and very comfortable to hold. One of
the most innovative leads on the market and is extremely flexible. Packed
full of features:
Allows for control from the HALTI and conventional collar at the same time
Works as a short lead for heel training and normal walking
Adjusts to a medium length for obedience training
At full length it works for recall and distance work
It can function as a double lead for walking two dogs at once
Can attach around the waist for hands-free dog training
Can easily be used as a tether
Comes in two sizes, both 78 inches long. Small - 1/2inch width Large - 1inch width
http://www.canineconcepts.co.uk/item--Halti-Harness--halti-harness
These are beautifully made and very comfortable to hold. One of
the most innovative leads on the market and is extremely flexible. Packed
full of features:Allows for control from the HALTI and conventional collar at the same time
Works as a short lead for heel training and normal walking
Adjusts to a medium length for obedience training
At full length it works for recall and distance work
It can function as a double lead for walking two dogs at once
Can attach around the waist for hands-free dog training
Can easily be used as a tether
Comes in two sizes, both 78 inches long. Small - 1/2inch width Large - 1inch width
purchase here
http://www.canineconcepts.co.uk/item--The-HALTI-Training-Lead--haltilead
reprinted with permission from www.canineconcepts.co.uk
********************
One of the biggest complaints many dog owners have is their dog pulls during walks. This may lead to the owner no longer walking the dog or resorting to prong collars and other devices that supposedly stop
pulling. However, even the most humane head halter can cause injury if not used properly. I have seen more than my share of dogs lunge and get their heads snapped back or even manage to get out of the
halter and run off. I like to use a method of teaching loose lead walking that gives the dog a chance to decide what proper leash manners are. I use the dog?s natural desire for interesting things and attention to encourage the manners I want. This can be done regardless of the breed, cross or age of the dog. The determining
factor in the technique?s successfulness is the owner.
First, get a long lead (not a retractable one, they have no control, the cord can cut your hands if you have to manually get the dog back and you want something that remains loose) go to an open area with
limited distractions.
Second, get a lot of treats or a toy or something that the dog cannot resist and use ONLY for training.
Third, go to an area with very limited distractions. The more things going on, the less interesting you will be and the more likely the dog will be to lunge. Working in an area with too many things going on often leads to human frustration and too many corrections. With limited distractions, your dog will be more likely to focus on you and
not the ball game going on across the field or the joggers or the bikers, etc. You can do this exercise on a six-foot lead if space is an issue. The key is limited distractions.
Leash up the dog and give a happy ?Let?s go!? and start walking. If the dog goes in one direction, you walk in the opposite direction and SAY NOTHING. You need to TURN OFF. You do not want to follow the dog
as this puts him in charge of the walk and in charge of you. If the dog starts to head in one direction, silently go in another direction. If your dog stops and starts to pull at the lead, DO NOT PULL BACK! Instead, stop and walk towards the dog in an arc (nor directly at the dog as this can be scary for lower confidence animals). When you come up to the dog or the dog decides to follow you and gets right where you want him TURN ON, pay attention to him, give some treats, play and then change direction. If the dog follows you, pay attention
to him. The moment he starts to walk away, turn off and get boring.
If the dog walks up to you or even accidentally hits the spot you want him in (like he is just walking past you), turn on, give treats, talk to him happily and get fun. When he turns away, turn off. If he walks away from you, change direction. If you feel the lead get taught, turn and walk towards the dog. What you are doing is using the dog?s natural desire for fun things to teach him fun and good happens when he is walking next to you. When he walks away, things get boring. He has the length of the lead to decide to walk away or return to you. There is no leash yanking, dragging, yelling, no prong collars, etc., this can be done on a flat buckle collar or martingale
(?greyhound collar) and should be as you are not trying to correct the dog into walking with you on a loose lead but giving him incentive to learn proper leash manners. Your goal is not to use the lead to correct the dog. The lead is ONLY to connect the dog to you so he cannot run off.
When he is good at this with limited distractions, gradually increase the distractions. Remember, the more distractions, the harder you have to work to be more interesting than the rest of the world. You are allowing the dog to learn leash manners without punitive methods. The dog learns that when he is near you, good things happen. When he is away, you shut off. No punishing, he just gets nothing.
Most dogs love attention and will do what they need to in order to get it. Practice this on long leads and your regular lead (regardless of the leash length, the concept is the same). If your dog starts pulling, turn off, walk in the other direction and turn on only when he is where you want him.
The more you practice, the better the dog will become. Do several short sessions a day and even when out and doing fun walk, use these techniques (even if it means your whole walk is spent going in circles, if you do not teach that proper manners apply at all walks, the dog will not learn good leash manners).
Now what about those treats you are doling out? When the dog begins to spend more and more time next to you, gradually decrease the amount of times you treat. The dog will stay with you because he knows this will get him fun stuff, talking and maybe even food. He will be more likely to stay with you if he now gets the rewards at random times: sort of like slot machines and humans. Slots are so addicting because we know that is we do X behavior, we will get Y reward: we just do not know when and how much it will be. If you stop rewarding totally, the desired behavior will die off. If you reward too much once the desired behavior is figured out, the dog will try to do less work because he knows that reward will come anyhow.
If you practice regularly during general walks and formal training sessions, you will develop a dog that walks happily on a loose leash.
So, next time your dog starts to pull on his leash, shut up and walk away!
http://www.canineconcepts.co.uk/item--The-HALTI-Training-Lead--haltilead
reprinted with permission from www.canineconcepts.co.uk
********************
Shut Up and Walk Away: Teaching Loose Leash Walking Without Force
One of the biggest complaints many dog owners have is their dog pulls during walks. This may lead to the owner no longer walking the dog or resorting to prong collars and other devices that supposedly stop
pulling. However, even the most humane head halter can cause injury if not used properly. I have seen more than my share of dogs lunge and get their heads snapped back or even manage to get out of the
halter and run off. I like to use a method of teaching loose lead walking that gives the dog a chance to decide what proper leash manners are. I use the dog?s natural desire for interesting things and attention to encourage the manners I want. This can be done regardless of the breed, cross or age of the dog. The determining
factor in the technique?s successfulness is the owner.
First, get a long lead (not a retractable one, they have no control, the cord can cut your hands if you have to manually get the dog back and you want something that remains loose) go to an open area with
limited distractions.
Second, get a lot of treats or a toy or something that the dog cannot resist and use ONLY for training.
Third, go to an area with very limited distractions. The more things going on, the less interesting you will be and the more likely the dog will be to lunge. Working in an area with too many things going on often leads to human frustration and too many corrections. With limited distractions, your dog will be more likely to focus on you and
not the ball game going on across the field or the joggers or the bikers, etc. You can do this exercise on a six-foot lead if space is an issue. The key is limited distractions.
Leash up the dog and give a happy ?Let?s go!? and start walking. If the dog goes in one direction, you walk in the opposite direction and SAY NOTHING. You need to TURN OFF. You do not want to follow the dog
as this puts him in charge of the walk and in charge of you. If the dog starts to head in one direction, silently go in another direction. If your dog stops and starts to pull at the lead, DO NOT PULL BACK! Instead, stop and walk towards the dog in an arc (nor directly at the dog as this can be scary for lower confidence animals). When you come up to the dog or the dog decides to follow you and gets right where you want him TURN ON, pay attention to him, give some treats, play and then change direction. If the dog follows you, pay attention
to him. The moment he starts to walk away, turn off and get boring.
If the dog walks up to you or even accidentally hits the spot you want him in (like he is just walking past you), turn on, give treats, talk to him happily and get fun. When he turns away, turn off. If he walks away from you, change direction. If you feel the lead get taught, turn and walk towards the dog. What you are doing is using the dog?s natural desire for fun things to teach him fun and good happens when he is walking next to you. When he walks away, things get boring. He has the length of the lead to decide to walk away or return to you. There is no leash yanking, dragging, yelling, no prong collars, etc., this can be done on a flat buckle collar or martingale
(?greyhound collar) and should be as you are not trying to correct the dog into walking with you on a loose lead but giving him incentive to learn proper leash manners. Your goal is not to use the lead to correct the dog. The lead is ONLY to connect the dog to you so he cannot run off.
When he is good at this with limited distractions, gradually increase the distractions. Remember, the more distractions, the harder you have to work to be more interesting than the rest of the world. You are allowing the dog to learn leash manners without punitive methods. The dog learns that when he is near you, good things happen. When he is away, you shut off. No punishing, he just gets nothing.
Most dogs love attention and will do what they need to in order to get it. Practice this on long leads and your regular lead (regardless of the leash length, the concept is the same). If your dog starts pulling, turn off, walk in the other direction and turn on only when he is where you want him.
The more you practice, the better the dog will become. Do several short sessions a day and even when out and doing fun walk, use these techniques (even if it means your whole walk is spent going in circles, if you do not teach that proper manners apply at all walks, the dog will not learn good leash manners).
Now what about those treats you are doling out? When the dog begins to spend more and more time next to you, gradually decrease the amount of times you treat. The dog will stay with you because he knows this will get him fun stuff, talking and maybe even food. He will be more likely to stay with you if he now gets the rewards at random times: sort of like slot machines and humans. Slots are so addicting because we know that is we do X behavior, we will get Y reward: we just do not know when and how much it will be. If you stop rewarding totally, the desired behavior will die off. If you reward too much once the desired behavior is figured out, the dog will try to do less work because he knows that reward will come anyhow.
If you practice regularly during general walks and formal training sessions, you will develop a dog that walks happily on a loose leash.
So, next time your dog starts to pull on his leash, shut up and walk away!