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Orphans:How to raise them
Hand Rearing Puppies
Orphan Puppy Care

Orphans: How to Raise Them

Race Foster, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

   
Puppies are usually orphaned when the mother (dam) is not able to adequately care for her puppies. This mayorphans1 be because she cannot produce milk (a condition called agalactia) or because she has behavioral or psychological abnormalities, which prevent her from adequately caring for her puppies. In rare instances, the mother may actually not be present due to death, injury, or complications arising from a difficult birthing. Some puppies may be several weeks old before their mother becomes unable to care for them.

Successful rearing of motherless puppies requires a regular schedule of appropriate feedings, elimination, playing, and sleeping all in a safe and healthy environment. The principles of raising one orphaned puppy are not significantly different than those of raising an entire orphaned litter. In most cases, an entire litter is orphaned rather than a single puppy. Raising an orphaned litter in the complete absence of a mother is time consuming but rewarding. It is very possible to hand raise an entire litter from birth with the same success rate as could be accomplished by the natural caring mother. To successfully raise an orphaned litter one must consider:

Nutrition and weaning

Sanitation

Temperature and humidity

Disease prevention

Nurture and socialization

Healthy puppies are plump and firm, warm, quiet, and sleep most of the time. Unhealthy puppies have poor muscle tone, initial high activity levels, and cry a lot. If not assisted, they become weak, quiet, and comatose.

Nutrition and weaning
If at all possible, get the puppies to nurse from the bitch in the first 12 hours to allow for ingestion of colostrum. Puppies are only able to absorb the antibodies from the colostrum for the first 24 hours of life. If the dam will continue to allow the puppies to nurse while she is made to lay still, it will decrease some of the work load on the breeder. She may decide in a few days that she is willing to care for them and remove the burden from the breeder.

orphans2 Supplying adequate nutrition is always a concern in hand raising puppies. If the bitch is not able to nurse and care for the puppies, they will need to be bottle or tube fed. Bottles for puppies are readily available and are the preferred method of feeding. Tube feeding is best left to trained individuals, as the tube may be inadvertently passed to the lungs and cause choking when the formula is administered. Tube feeding, although risky, is warranted in puppies failing to nurse properly. Some kennel operators have become experts at tube feeding and prefer this method, as they then know precisely how much formula each puppy has received. For most instances, however, bottle feeding is recommended. Feed a puppy while on its belly, not on its back, as is the case with human babies.

Commercially prepared puppy milk formulas are readily available and are nutritionally balanced to meet the needs of orphan puppies. Homemade milk formula recipes are also available. These are not perfectly balanced nutritionally, but will suffice for several days until commercial formulas can be obtained. Esbilac and Puppylac are well known puppy milk replacers.

Emergency Puppy Milk Replacer
1 cup whole milk (cow or goat)

1 pinch table grade salt

3 egg yolks - no whites

1 tablespoon corn oil

1/4 teaspoon liquid vitamins  

Do not substitute cow's milk or goat's milk for a high quality puppy milk replacer. They are not equivalent. Do not feed raw egg whites as a biotin deficiency may occur due to an enzyme in the white part of the egg. The enzyme is destroyed with cooking. Honey may contain bacteria, which may be fatal to the puppies.

Whether using a commercial or homemade formula, only make enough formula for 1 day of feeding at a time and keep it in the refrigerator. Wash and dry the bottles and nipples or feeding tube thoroughly between feedings. Warm the puppy milk replacer in a pan of water until 98-100ºF before feeding.

The puppies will need to be burped during and after each feeding. Hold them upright or over your shoulder and pat their back. Bottle or tube feeding needs to be done very carefully to prevent aspiration of the supplement with subsequent aspiration pneumonia or drowning. Substitute 2-3 tube feedings a day with bottle feeding to help satisfy the suckling reflex. This should help decrease the puppies tendency to suck on each other and possibly cause sores. 
 
The first 48-72 hours, they should be fed every 2 hours. For the remainder of the first week, they should be fedorphans3 every 3 hours during the day with two 4-hour stretches at night. The second week, the feedings should be every 4 hours during the day with one 6-hour stretch during the night. By the third week, they should be started on puppy mush 3 times a day and the bottle feeding should be continued.

Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with 12.5 oz liquid puppy milk replacer and fill the rest of the blender with hot water. This should be blenderized until the consistency of human infant cereal. (This feeds 6-8 puppies of a medium-sized breed.)

By the fourth week, the mush should be fed 4-5 times a day and the amount of bottle feeding can be slowly reduced. The middle of the night feeding can be reduced and eliminated also. They can be completely on solid food by 6 weeks of age.
Recommended Caloric Intake
Week
 calories/pound/day
1
  60-69
2
 70-79
3
 80-89
4+
 90-100

orphans4 Divide the daily caloric requirements into the 6-12 feedings required for their age. Expect an eight-ounce (1/2 pound) puppy to consume about 30 ml (one ounce) of formula over a 24-hour period. Most milk formulas contain about 60 calories per ounce of formula, thus the eight-ounce puppy will consume about 30 calories in a 24-hour period. This is a guideline only and it is better to feed lesser amounts more often than large amounts at one time. If the puppies are not gaining weight, they need more food. If the puppies develop diarrhea, they may be overfed. Weigh each puppy at the same time a minimum of once a day for the first 10 days. Then 3-4 times a week for another 10 days. Failure of weight gain is often the first sign of illness in young animals.

Sanitation
A newborn puppy is unable to urinate or have a bowel movement on its own. It lacks the necessaryorphans5 muscle control over these functions. A puppy must be stimulated to urinate and defecate. This duty is normally performed by the mother. Her grooming or licking of the puppy's anal area will stimulate it to urinate and defecate. Orphaned puppies must be manually stimulated by the owner to enable urination and defecation. The puppy must be stimulated after each and every feeding. Fortunately, this is easy. A cotton ball or piece of very soft toweling works well. Moisten it with warm water and gently rub the anal and genital area. Within one to two minutes the puppy will urinate and/or defecate. Some puppies will respond better before eating while others respond better after eating. Try both times to keep the puppies healthiest. Keep a record of each puppy's urination and defecation. Puppies will need to be stimulated in this fashion until their bladder and bowel muscles strengthen, usually by 21 days of age. Most puppies will eliminate on their own by three weeks of age.

Clean the puppy and you are done until the next feeding. Observe the urine and feces for signs of ill health. The urine should be a pale yellow or clear. If it is dark yellow or orange, the puppy is not being fed enough. Do not feed more at one time, but feed more often. The stool should be a pale to dark brown and partially formed. Green stool indicates an infection, and too firm of a stool indicates not enough formula. Again, if the stool is hard, feed more often rather than increasing the amount of formula given per feeding. It is possible to feed a puppy too much, but not too often. Too much food causes bloating, gas, regurgitation, and sometimes aspiration into the lungs.

Temperature and humidity
To remain healthy, puppies must be kept at the proper ambient temperature. Young puppies cannot conserve body heat or shiver to create heat. Supplying artificial heat sources such as an incubator, heat lamp, warm water pad or electrical heating pad will help puppies remain at the correct body temperature. Regardless of the heat source, it is very important not to overheat or burn the puppies. Keep a thermometer in the puppy area to monitor the temperature.

A simple 25-watt light bulb suspended over one end of a small box usually will supply sufficient heat. Keep a room thermometer under the light source to monitor the temperature. Heating pads need to be monitored closely if used, as the puppies may be too weakened to move away from them and become burned. If a heating pad must be used, wrap it in a thick towel or sheepskin to protect the puppies from burns.

For the first week, air temperature should be maintained at 90-95ºF and a relative humidity of 55-65%. During the beginning of the second week, gradually reduce the temperature to 85ºF. During the third week; 80ºF. During the fourth week; 75ºF. Beyond five weeks, decrease temperature to 70ºF or the normal room temperature. Use common sense. If the puppies are piled on top of each other all the time, they are cold. If the puppies are spread far apart, they are too warm. If they lay next to each other, the temperature is fine.

Puppies that are hypothermic (low body temperature) should be warmed slowly over 2-3 hours to a normal neonate temperature of 97ºF. A normal body temperature should be obtained before feeding these puppies.

Keep the moisture in a range comfortable for humans. In a homemade box area, a towel moistened with water and placed over the box will help add moisture. Never raise infants in a damp or moldy basement area. This type of stagnant dampness is usually cold and invites mildew and respiratory infections. Temperature control is more critical than humidity.

Puppies should be kept on a surface with good traction such as a blanket stretched taught and held firm under the sides of the whelping box.

Disease prevention
Many orphaned puppies are at a higher risk of developing infectious diseases such as distemper and parvovirus. This is especially true of puppies that were orphaned without having received any of their natural mother's colostrum. The colostrum, which is produced during the first 24 hours after giving birth is especially rich in disease-protecting antibodies. Colostrum contains the antibodies which when consumed by the puppies provides immunity against many diseases. Puppies that have never nursed have not received colostrum and do not have good immunity. Because of the possible lack of immunity, properly vaccinating the puppies is extremely important. Some veterinarians may recommend starting orphaned puppies with their first vaccinations at an earlier age.

The American Association of Parasitologists and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention have made the following recommendations for deworming puppies:

Initiate treatments at 2 weeks, repeat at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heartworm prevention medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms.

Nurture and socialization
Puppies need mental and physical stimulation. If they have littermates, they will stimulate each other whenorphans6 moving. Snuggle with each puppy as you wake it to eat and for a time after eating. They need the nurturing to thrive.

It is important for the orphan puppy to have interaction with members of the household at 5-6 weeks of age. Remember, it is still a baby and must be handled with care, but you should start to introduce the pup to noises, grooming procedures, new people, and pets. Early socialization and enabling the puppy to feel secure in its own environment will help prevent many problems from arising in the future.

Conclusion
Does raising the orphan pup or litter seem like an enormous task? Do not worry, there are excellent books available for more specific information on orphan care and veterinary care in general. With a commitment of time and care, a little common sense, and some basic information, it can be a very positive experience. The happy, healthy young dog you helped raise will be a wonderful reward.

References and Further Reading
Holst, P. Canine Reproduction: A Breeder's Guide. Alpine Publications. Loveland, CO; 1985.
Evans, JM; White, K. Book of the Bitch. Howell Book House. New York, NY; 1997.
Lee, M. Whelping and Rearing of Puppies. T.F.H. Publications, Inc. Neptune City, NJ.
Fogle, B. The Dog's Mind - Understanding Your Dog's Behavior. Howell Book House. New York, NY; 1990.
Rutherford, C; Neil, D. How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With, 3rd ed. Alpine Publication. 1999.
The Monks of New Skete. The Art of Raising a Puppy. Little, Brown, and Company. Boston, MA; 1991.
Feldman, E; Nelson, R. Canine and Feline Endocrinology and Reproduction. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia, PA; 1987.
Cain, J; Lawler, D. Small Animal Reproduction and Pediatrics. Pro-Visions Pet Specialty Enterprises. St. Louis, MO; 1991.
Foster, R; Smith, M. What's The Diagnosis. Howell Book House. New York, NY; 1995.
Ettinger, SF. Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine, 3rd ed. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia, PA; 1989.

Copyright © 1997-2007, Foster & Smith, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
C 2006 Drs. Foster and Smith, Inc. Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from
 Josie Pitterle Article Reprint Coordinator Drs. Foster and Smith
PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com) On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

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Handrearing Puppies

Dr Rebecca Bragg BVSc
www.petalia.com.au

The first 2 weeks of life are the most precarious for puppies. It is important for puppies to obtain the initial milk from the mother, called colostrum, as this contains high levels of antibodies to help protect them against disease. However, if the mother dies or rejects the puppies, or if there are too many in the litter for the mother to feed, the puppies will require hand rearing. This is a time-consuming process requiring a lot of patience, persistence, and care.
 
What kind of environment do newborn puppies require?

How do I feed newborn puppies?

Stimulating puppies to go to the toilet

How do I know if a puppy is unwell?

What veterinary treatments do puppies require?

What kind of environment do newborn puppies require?  
Since puppies under 2 weeks of age are unable to maintain their own body temperature they must be kept in an environment at 29 to 32°C, with 55 to 65% humidity. Their rectal temperature at birth is 35.6 to 36.1°C, increasing gradually to 37.8° by 1 week of age. Puppies should be placed in a crate or box lined with towels or another cleanable synthetic warm material. The box should have a heat source to maintain optimum environmental temperature, and should be large enough for the puppies to move away from the heat source if they are too hot. Hot water bottles or heat lamps are often used.

Cold puppies will huddle together, piling on top of each other, and cry more, whereas if they are widely separated they are probably hot.

The environmental temperature can be reduced to 27°C after 1 week, then to 22°C after 4 weeks.
 
How do I feed newborn puppies?  
There are mild formulas available for puppies, and these will have feeding guides as to how much to feed depending on the age of the puppies; Puppies less than 2 weeks of age need to be fed every 3 to 4 hours, gradually reducing to every 6 to 8 hours at 4 weeks. Bottles and teats designed for feeding different sized puppies are available, and these need to be sterilised between uses, as for human babies.

You can start to offer milk in saucers from 2 weeks of age, gradually mixing in greater proportions of puppy food. Puppies can be weaned entirely off bottled milk as early as 4 weeks of age. 

Stimulating puppies to go to the toilet  
The mother would normally lick the area under the tail to stimulate the puppy to urinate and defecate. In her absence, you will need to clean this area with damp cotton wool or tissues after a feed to ensure regular toileting.

How do I know if a puppy is unwell?  
The most common signs of illness are persistent crying, decreased activity, reluctance to feed, failure to gain weight, and weakness. Crying for more than 20 minutes is abnormal - it may indicate that the puppy is cold, hungry, or ill. Eventually the puppy will stop crying and become weak and cold. Since newborn puppies can become seriously ill and die very quickly, contact your veterinarian for advice if you are concerned about a puppy's behaviour.

Low body temperature (hypothermia) is a common cause of newborn puppy death. Hypoglycemia refers to low blood sugar levels and is due to insufficient food intake. Signs of hypoglycemia include weakness, depression, and muscle twitching. It is treated by giving a few drops of glucose solution such as Glucodin into the mouth. If this doesn't alleviate the signs, and the puppy's body temperature is normal, consult your veterinarian.

Diarrhoea is a common problem in hand-reared puppies, and can lead to rapid dehydration, infection, and death. Feed milk diluted with boiled water, but if this does not improve the diarrhoea within 24 hours, or the puppy shows other signs of illness, consult your veterinarian, as hospitalisation may be required.
 
What veterinary treatments do puppies require?  
Puppies should be wormed from 2 weeks of age at fortnightly intervals until 12 weeks of age. They need to be dosed accurately according to weight. The first vaccination is at 6 to 8 weeks of age in most cases. However, some breeds in some areas require extra parvovirus injections, and some litters need earlier vaccinations if they have not received the important first milk (colostrum). Colostrum contains antibodies that provide some immunity to disease, provided the mother has her vaccinations up to date. Conatact your veterinarian for advice on the appropriate vaccination program for your puppies.
 
 Article reprinted with permission from Petalia™ A world of Petcare  www.petalia.com.au  Author: Dr Rebecca Bragg BVSc MACVS
Petalia makes no representations about, and accepts no responsibility or liability for, the accuracy or currency of the information provided."
reprinted with kind permission from Dr Julia Adams BVScAsk-the-Vet Resident Vetaskthevet@petalia.com.au
Disclaimer: This information is not intended as a substitute for specific advice from your veterinarian concerning the health of your pet.

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THE PET HEALTH LIBRARY

By Wendy C. Brooks, DVM, DipABVP
Educational Director, VeterinaryPartner.com 
http://www.veterinarypartner.com
 
    
Orphan Puppy & Kitten Care
Keep the babies together as long as they are about the same age; this will help socialize them to their own species and will help in keeping them warm. Try to assemble the following equipment:

The Nest Box
The nest box in which the babies live should have tall sides so that they cannot climb out by mistake and become chilled. A cardboard pet carrier is perfect as it is portable, dark inside, and closable. These are inexpensive and should be available from a pet store or your veterinarian. 

Place towels in the bottom of the box and cover them with a diaper so the babies rest directly on the diaper.orphansvp1 Most diapers have elastic leg holes and may have to be trimmed so they will lie flat. Expect to change the diaper several times daily. Keeping the babies clean and dry is very important.
 
Place a heating pad under the nest box so that only half of the nest box is warmed. This way the babies may crawl off the warm side of the box if they feel too hot.  Alternatively, a water bottle filled with warm water can be buried in the blankets as a heat source as long as the babies have room to move away from it if they are too hot.
If the baby's temperature drops below 94F degrees, the heart rate drops and intestinal motion ceases.  Death occurs if this is not corrected. Warming should take place over an hour or two to avoid shock.

The Diet
Pet Ag manufactures KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer). It comes in a powder and a liquid. The powdered form seems less associated with diarrhea than the liquid plus with the powdered form, the water content can be adjusted in the event of dehydration.

For puppies, Pet Ag makes ESBILAC. Again, both powder and liquid forms are available.
 
Mix up the powder according to the directions on the can. If you are using the liquid form, you may want to dilute it with one part water for every two parts of formula. As the babies get older, less water may be used whether you are mixing up the powder or the liquid. If diarrhea occurs at any time, you should add more water to the formula to make up for fluid lost as diarrhea.
 
Store the can of powder in the freezer after opening. Do not mix up more than a day's worth of formula. Use a blender to mix the formula several hours ahead to allow time for the bubbles to settle.

MAKESHIFT FORMULA UNTIL KMR/ESBILAC CAN BE OBTAINED


PUPPIES
1 cup whole milk

1 tsp. salad oil

1 drop multi-vitamins (if you have any)

2 egg yolks

KITTENS
1/2 cup whole milk

1 egg yolk

1 drop multi-vitamins

3 Tums (antacid) crushed

Mix in a blender whichever formula you use.

The Bottle
Obtain a pet nurser bottle from a pet store or your veterinarian.
 
Use very fine scissors or a hot needle to make a hole in the nipple. The hole should be big enough that formula will slowly drip out if the bottle is held upside-down and gently squeezed. The nipple should not collapse when the baby is sucking.
 
Warm the bottle in a cup of hot water. Always test the formula before giving it to the babies. Taste it to be sure it is not sour. Do not use a microwave oven to heat the bottle as it may not heat evenly with some areas of the bottle being scalding hot.
How/When to Feed

Expect to feed them every 2 to 3 hours during the day. If this is done, the babies should be able to sleep through the night.
 
Do not wake the babies at feeding time. Let them sleep. When they wake up hungry, they will let you know.
 
During feeding be sure to tip the bottle so that no air is swallowed.
 
Play with/rub them after feeding to "burp" them.
 
Occasionally small amounts of formula will come out of the nose. The baby is drinking too fast. If excessive amounts of formula appear to be coming out the nose or if you are concerned, call your veterinarian.

Maintaining proper weight gain is crucial to survival.  Kittens with birth weights of less than 3.2 oz (90 grams) have a 59% mortality rate (though a less than 10% weight loss in the first 24 hours of life is considered normal).  After the first 24 hours, weight gain should be steady: 0.25 to 0.35 oz per day for kittens and 5% to 10% of the birth weight daily for puppies. An accurate postal or kitchen scale is helpful during this early period to be sure the baby is on a healthy track. If the baby is not gaining weight as desired, try to adjust food intake.
Urination/Defecation

Infant animals are unable to take care of these matters alone and must be given help. Normally their mother's tongue does the job as she washes them. Use a cotton swab, tissue, or your finger to gently rub the baby's genital area. Have a tissue ready to catch the urine.
 
Rubbing the anal area as well may also be necessary if the babies do not seem to be defecating as much as expected. Watch for diarrhea. Normal infant stool is normally very loose but should not be watery.  
  
Bathing
Using baby shampoo and warm water, bathe the babies a couple of times daily. Urine will burn their tender skinorphansvp2 and caked feces can lead to infection so keeping the babies clean is very important.
 
Take care not to submerge the infant in water. Be careful that it cannot drown or choke on the water and be sure the water temperature is acceptable.
 
Gently blow dry the babies when the bath is over. Do not allow chilling.

How to be Sure You are on Track
The best way to be sure everything is going well is to track weight gain in your new babies. A postal scale or food scale (ideally one that measures weight in grams) will be helpful. A puppy or kitten should gain 10% of the birth weight every day and should be drinking 22 to 26 cc of formula per 100 grams of body weight over the course of the day. Puppies are variable in growth expectancy depending on breed but kittens are more predictable and should gain 50 to 100 grams weekly.

Kittens weighing less than 90 grams (approx 3 oz) at birth have a very high mortality rate.

Starting Solid Food
When the babies start biting and chewing at their bottle instead of sucking (3-4 weeks of age), they may be started on some finely textured canned food. At first it may be necessary to mix solid food with a little formula and /or smear a little around their mouths gently with a finger.

**Friskies canned Kitten Meals for kittens     **Chicken or turkey baby food for puppies
          
Between ages 4 and 6 weeks, they should begin readily accepting solid food. New homes may be found for them at age 8 weeks. Be aware that in many states it is not legal to transfer ownership of a puppy or kitten until this age anyway.

NOTE
Colostrum is the first milk produced by the mother shortly after giving birth. It is rich in antibodies which will protect the babies for the first several months of life.  orphansvp3
  
Without colostrum (if their mother did not nurse the kittens during the first 2 days of life) the babies are virtually without an immune system. Especially great care should be taken in cleanliness and the babies should be vaccinated at 2 weeks of age. They may require a plasma transfusion to make up for the colostrum. There is no substitute for a real mother.

For more information on raising orphan kittens see: http://www.hdw-inc.com/tinykitten.htm

Many foster parents have difficulty distinguishing male and female kittens at this early age. For some guidelines and (illustrated) instructions, see: http://vetinfo.com/csexcat.html  

Copyright 2006 - 2007 by the Veterinary Information Network, Inc. All rights reserved.
This work was originally published by Veterinary Information
Network, Inc. (VIN) and is republished with VIN's permission.

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Hand Rearing a Litter




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