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Canine Whelping
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The newly
whelped bitch lives in a semi-feral state, certainly mentally and often
physically. For the first week she will barely leave her puppies,
departing for the swiftest of ablutions and often ignoring food and
drink unless it is brought right up to her.
A suckling bitch
must not be allowed to become dehydrated, an especial risk if she is on
dry food, but sometimes it is hard to get her to take in as much
fluid as she needs. Chicken or rabbit broth, made from real meat
and bones, is often more tempting than plain water. Milk is not
suitable: it can create stomach pain and loose bowel movement at a time
when the system is under stress in any case from cleaning-up after the
puppies. Cows' milk is ideal food for calves, but not dogs.
The bitch should
be troubled as little as possible during this time. She will
decide when she is ready to leave her young for longer periods, and a
short walk will be refreshing to her then. Avoid other dogs when
out, not just for the risk of bringing infection back to the puppies,
but because she will rightly be protective to the extreme. The
quietest, most introverted bitch may transform into a tigress when she
has a litter.
Day by day, she
will take more time away from her welps and cast herself in a more
superviosory role while the human slave takes over the majority of the
feeding and cleaning. I don't let people see the puppies until
they are five or so weeks old: the bitch is far readier to allow
strangers contact with them then, whereas she would be stressed if it
had happened earlier in their lives.
Jackie Drakeford
reprinted with kind
permission from Alastair Balmain
Deputy Editor:Shooting Times
& Country Magazine
Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street SE1 0SU
Tel: 020 3148 4750
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Whelping
Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs.
Foster & Smith, Inc.
Whelping box
The big day is fast approaching. You should have all of the supplies
ready and waiting at least a week before the expected due date.
The whelping box is the single biggest item needed. It should provide
enough room for the bitch to lay and stretch out comfortably without
being so big that the puppies get 'lost.' For large breed dogs, it is
also nice if a person can sit in the box with mom during labor and
delivery and to play with the puppies later. The floor must be level
and stable. The sides should be high enough to keep 4-week-old puppies
in, but be hinged or have a door so the bitch can come and go. The
sides may set inside the edges of
the floor. This allows a blanket to be stretched tight over the floor
and
held in place by the sides. A safety rail is necessary around the
entire perimeter. This allows the puppies to fit underneath in case the
bitch lays down and they are in the way. It should be high and wide
enough for a month-old puppy to fit under. The whelping box should be
set up in a warm, quiet, safe
location.
A heat lamp should be placed high enough that the bitch cannot contact
it, but close enough to heat the area. It should only heat a corner of
the whelping box, so if the puppies are too warm, they can move away
from
the heat source. The heat lamp light should be diffused with aluminum
foil
with holes poked in it with a needle. This protects the bulb from
accidental
contact and protects the puppies eyes from bright light.
Newspaper can be put in the whelping box during delivery. As it gets
wet more layers are added. Once she is done whelping and is taken
outside
to relieve herself, the entire box is changed and dry paper put in with
a blanket stretched tight over the top to give puppies traction.
Whelping supplies
Have large plastic garbage bags handy to place used newspaper, paper
towels, and other garbage.
A laundry basket or box should be available to place puppies in while
the rest of the litter is born. This protects them while the bitch
paces and moves around during labor. A heating pad should be placed on
the bottom with a fleece pad over it. (The puppies should NEVER be
placed directly on heating pads, as they may be burned.) Another 1 or 2
towels should be placed over the top of the basket to keep the heat in.
The fleece and the air in the basket should feel comfortably warm to
your hand. If the puppies are moving
around and crying, they are too cold or too hot. If they are bobbing
their
heads, searching, and crying, they are hungry. They should be put with
mom
as soon as possible to nurse. The puppies can be placed with the bitch
between
births to allow them to nurse and bond, and if necessary, be put back
in
the basket while the next sibling arrives.
NEVER USE WOOD SHAVINGS FOR
PREGNANT OR NEWBORN ANIMALS.
A large stack of soft, clean towels should be handy to help clean off
puppies if necessary. Large litters may require 2-3 dozen towels. White
or
light colored towels will show the color of any discharge or placenta.
Have
a laundry basket handy to throw them in as they are used. Wash as soon
after
birth as possible with detergent and bleach to minimize staining of the
towels.
An easy alternative is to use paper towel that can be discarded.
Other supplies to have on hand include the following:
Sterile hemostats and blunt-end scissors to cut the umbilical cord, if
necessary
Alcohol and matches to sterilize the hemostats and scissors (dip the
instrument in the alcohol, hold downward, light with a match - do not
hold
upward, as the alcohol (and fire) will go down your hand)
Heavy sewing thread, dental floss, or suture (to tie umbilical cords
if necessary)
Lubricating (petroleum) jelly
Several pairs of sterile surgical gloves
Rubber pediatric bulb syringe or other suction devise to clear airways
Surgical antiseptic scrub/iodine
Tube feeder, syringe, bottle and nipple, and puppy milk replacer (such
as Esbilac)
Gram or ounce scale depending on average size of newborn puppy for your
breed
Stethoscope
Nail polish to mark puppies for identification (puppies look remarkably
similar and the best way to identify them is with marks)
Thermometer – rectal to monitor the bitch's temperature
Household thermometer to monitor the air temperature in the whelping
box
High-quality puppy food, cottage cheese, vanilla yogurt, and/or vanilla
ice cream for the bitch
Fresh water for the bitch
Regular number for veterinary clinic and the emergency veterinary
clinic number
Numbers for family/friends/sitter to watch the children during delivery
and, if necessary, to go to vet clinic
Whelping books
Vetwrap to wrap the tail of a long-haired bitch
Flashlight with new batteries
Clock or watch to time the birth
Camera, film, and extra battery
Something for you to do while waiting – cards, magazines, etc.
Ink pen (and an extra) and note pad – mark each pup's arrival time,
sex, weight, color, and markings (either natural markings or id mark
you apply), and if placenta was expelled
Make sure the phone cord reaches the whelping box or that the battery
for the cordless phone is charged
Cot for you to sleep on
Predicting the delivery time
Average gestation is about 63 days from the date of ovulation, which
may be different than the date(s) of breeding(s). Several changes that
may be noticeable in the bitch the last week before delivery include a
distended, 'dropped' abdomen, enlarged and softened vulva, enlarged
nipples,
and full mammary glands. Taking her temperature at least twice a day
the
last 10 days before the delivery date is also helpful. Some bitch's
temperatures
will drop below 99°F within 24 hours of delivery. This may not be
seen
in all bitches, but is another indicator. Loss of appetite and
nervousness
(pacing, panting) alternating with sleep also indicate the time is near.
Preparing the bitch
Clipping the long hair from the underside of the abdomen allows the
puppies to find the nipples easier. A bitch may 'blow her coat' in
preparation
for delivery. Trimming the rear quarters helps keep the mess to a
minimum.
If she is not kept clean, she should receive a bath before delivery and
then be kept in the house.
Remove the bitch's collar before whelping to eliminate a possible
hazard to the puppies.
Once labor has begun, do not let her outside except on a leash and
bring a towel along in case a puppy is born. Bring a flashlight along
if it is nighttime. Check the spot after she urinates for signs of
mucus, blood,
or other discharge.
Stages of labor
Labor and delivery have three stages. In the first stage, the cervix
is being dilated and softened. She may moan, whimper, and pant during
labor. Abdominal contractions are not evident in this stage. She may be
restless, secretive, and try to hide. This is why the whelping box is
in a quiet area in the house. The lights can be dimmed if she is more
comfortable. She may shred paper and blankets during this stage also.
Stage one may take 12-24 hours. It ends when the first puppy passes
into the pelvic canal.
Stage two starts when she begins actively
pushing the first puppy out. The first puppy tends to take the longest,
as it needs to fully dilate
the cervix. Normally, 1-4 strong contractions are necessary to deliver
each puppy. She may be very vocal during delivery, and she may stand,
lie,
or sit with haunches to one side for delivery. She will be more relaxed
if those present are relaxed. Some dogs do not want anyone around for
the
whelping and the owner needs to sit in the corner and watch, while
other
bitches may want the owner in the whelping box with them.
The amniotic fluid (water bubble) is
seen first. The puppy may
come head first or rear paws first. Either way is normal. As soon as
the
puppy is born, the dam should remove the sac from its face. If the
bitch
does not do so within several seconds, the owner should remove it so
the
puppy can breathe.
The bitch will start licking the puppy and
will not be extremely gentle with the puppy. That is fine, since the
puppy needs stimulation to start breathing on its own. He should be
giving lusty cries and starting to movinge around. Within minutes he
may be ready to nurse, although some puppies need a short rest to
recover from the stress of delivery before they are ready to nurse. The
bitch will crush and tear the umbilical cord about 1-3 inches from the
puppy's body depending on size.
If she does not, clamp the cord between 2 hemostats and tear it or cut
it. If the umbilical cord bleeds, tie it off with the suture. If you
need to pick up the puppy, keep him in a head-down position to allow
fluid to
drain out of the lungs and nasal passages. Once the puppy is crying
loudly
and clearly, the lungs are clear.
The third stage of labor is the delivery of the placenta. Each puppy
has a placenta and it is usually delivered with the puppy. Keep track
of
the placentas on the notepad, as she may have two puppies and then 2
placentas. The bitch will usually eat the placenta. After two or three,
the owner can remove some of them to prevent her from eating them all.
The placenta does offer nourishment to the bitch, but too many may
cause diarrhea or vomiting.
She will repeat the second and third stages of labor until all the
puppies are born. Some bitches will have 2-3 puppies in 20 minutes and
then break for a couple of hours, while others take 2-3 hours per
puppy. As long as she is comfortable and not contracting forcefully,
monitor closely. If she is contracting forcefully and no puppy is born,
call your veterinarian.
If it seems too much time has passed or you are worried, call your
veterinarian for advice. If x-rays have been done to count the number
of fetuses, you will have a better idea when you are done. Do not count
on complete accuracy in fetal numbers from the x-ray.
Allow the dam to eat and drink small amounts during labor and delivery
if she wishes. She may prefer small amounts of cottage cheese or yogurt
in addition to her regular food.
Allow the puppies to nurse between deliveries. After the first puppies
have nursed, allow the newcomers a chance to nurse without having to
fight off their older siblings. The puppies are only able to absorb the
colostrum through their intestines for the first 24 hours of life.
After that time, they are no longer able to get any protection from
disease from the dam. The bitch should be licking their perineal area
to stimulate urination
and defecation. She will continue this for 2-3 weeks.
Dystocia: Difficult labor and delivery
Difficulty during labor and delivery is called 'dystocia,' and there
can be multiple causes.
Owners of breeds who are prone to dystocias (those with large heads and
shoulders such as Bulldogs, Pugs, and Boston Terriers) should discuss
the possibility of a cesarean section with their veterinarian several
weeks prior to the due date. Some breeders of these breeds will
automatically schedule a c-section.
Whelping records
It is important to keep accurate records during the delivery. A sample
record is shown below (although records of weight gain should be kept
longer than 3 days). Keeping such records will help you recognize
problems early, and be a way to follow each puppy during their first
weeks of life. As
puppies are born, breeders use different methods to identify them and
keep
track of them. One way is to put a dab of blue (male) or (pink) nail
polish
on the hip or shoulder of the puppies.
Whelping Record For 'Sydney'
1/5/2000
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Births
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Time
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Male/
Female
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ID Marking
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Weight
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Placenta
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Weight Day 1
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Weight Day 2
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Weight Day 3
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#1
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12:10 P.M.
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Male
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Blue Right Hip
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16 oz.
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yes
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*
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*
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*
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#2
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12:25 P.M.
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Male
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Blue Left Hip
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18 oz.
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yes
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#3
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2:50 P.M.
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Female
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Pink Right Hip
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16 oz.
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yes
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#4
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4:15 P.M.
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Female
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Pink Left Hip
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19 oz.
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yes
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#5
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4:45 P.M.
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Male
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Blue Right Shoulder
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20 oz.
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yes
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#6
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5:30 P.M.
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Male
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Blue Left Shoulder
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15 oz.
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yes
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#7
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6:20 P.M.
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Female
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Pink Right Shoulder
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16 oz.
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yes
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#8
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7:35 P.M.
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Male
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No Mark
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15 oz.
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yes
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* Record
the daily weight of each puppy here.
References and Further Reading
Cain, J; Lawler, D. Small Animal Reproduction and Pediatrics.
Pro-Visions Pet Specialty Enterprises. St. Louis, MO; 1991.
Ettinger, SF. Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine, 3rd ed. W.B.
Saunders Company. Philadelphia, PA; 1989.
Evans, JM; White, K. Book of the Bitch. Howell Book House. New York,
NY; 1997.
Feldman, E; Nelson, R. Canine and Feline Endocrinology and
Reproduction. W.B. Saunders Company. Philadelphia, PA; 1987.
Finder Harris, B. Breeding a Litter: The Complete Book of Prenatal and
Postnatal Care. Howell Book House. New York, NY; 1993.
Holst, P. Canine Reproduction: A Breeder's Guide. Alpine Publications.
Loveland, CO; 1985.
Lee, M. Whelping and Rearing of Puppies. T.F.H. Publications, Inc.
Neptune City, NJ.
Copyright © 1997-2011, Foster & Smith,
Inc.
All Rights Reserved.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from Josie Pitterle Article
Reprint Coordinator Drs. Foster and Smith
PetEducation.com (
http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at
http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208
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