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               Canine Whelping               

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Whelping
Birthing Puppies

Whelping

Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
Whelping box
The big day is fast approaching. You should have all of the supplies ready and waiting at least a week before the expected due date.

The whelping box is the single biggest item needed. It should provide enough room for the bitch to lay and stretch out comfortably without being so big that the puppies get 'lost.' For large breed dogs, it is also nice if a person can sit in the box with mom during labor and delivery and to play with the puppies later. The floor must be level and stable. The sides should be high enough to keep 4-week-old puppies in, but be hinged or have a door so the bitch can come and go. The sides may set inside the edges of the floor. This allows a blanket to be stretched tight over the floor and held in place by the sides. A safety rail is necessary around the entire perimeter. This allows the puppies to fit underneath in case the bitch lays down and they are in the way. It should be high and wide enough for a month-old puppy to fit under. The whelping box should be set up in a warm, quiet, safe location.

A heat lamp should be placed high enough that the bitch cannot contact it, but close enough to heat the area. It should only heat a corner of the whelping box, so if the puppies are too warm, they can move away from the heat source. The heat lamp light should be diffused with aluminum foil with holes poked in it with a needle. This protects the bulb from accidental contact and protects the puppies eyes from bright light.

Newspaper can be put in the whelping box during delivery. As it gets wet more layers are added. Once she is done whelping and is taken outside to relieve herself, the entire box is changed and dry paper put in with a blanket stretched tight over the top to give puppies traction.

Whelping supplies
Have large plastic garbage bags handy to place used newspaper, paper towels, and other garbage.

A laundry basket or box should be available to place puppies in while the rest of the litter is born. This protects them while the bitch paces and moves around during labor. A heating pad should be placed on the bottom with a fleece pad over it. (The puppies should NEVER be placed directly on heating pads, as they may be burned.) Another 1 or 2 towels should be placed over the top of the basket to keep the heat in. The fleece and the air in the basket should feel comfortably warm to your hand. If the puppies are moving around and crying, they are too cold or too hot. If they are bobbing their heads, searching, and crying, they are hungry. They should be put with mom as soon as possible to nurse. The puppies can be placed with the bitch between births to allow them to nurse and bond, and if necessary, be put back in the basket while the next sibling arrives.
NEVER USE WOOD SHAVINGS FOR PREGNANT OR NEWBORN ANIMALS.

A large stack of soft, clean towels should be handy to help clean off puppies if necessary. Large litters may require 2-3 dozen towels. White or light colored towels will show the color of any discharge or placenta. Have a laundry basket handy to throw them in as they are used. Wash as soon after birth as possible with detergent and bleach to minimize staining of the towels. An easy alternative is to use paper towel that can be discarded.

Other supplies to have on hand include the following:


Sterile hemostats and blunt-end scissors to cut the umbilical cord, if necessary

Alcohol and matches to sterilize the hemostats and scissors (dip the instrument in the alcohol, hold downward, light with a match - do not hold upward, as the alcohol (and fire) will go down your hand)

Heavy sewing thread, dental floss, or suture (to tie umbilical cords if necessary)

Lubricating (petroleum) jelly

Several pairs of sterile surgical gloves

Rubber pediatric bulb syringe or other suction devise to clear airways

Surgical antiseptic scrub/iodine

Tube feeder, syringe, bottle and nipple, and puppy milk replacer (such as Esbilac)

Gram or ounce scale depending on average size of newborn puppy for your breed

Stethoscope

Nail polish to mark puppies for identification (puppies look remarkably similar and the best way to identify them is with marks)

Thermometer – rectal to monitor the bitch's temperature

Household thermometer to monitor the air temperature in the whelping box

High-quality puppy food, cottage cheese, vanilla yogurt, and/or vanilla ice cream for the bitch

Fresh water for the bitchwhelpingpeted1

Regular number for veterinary clinic and the emergency veterinary clinic number

Numbers for family/friends/sitter to watch the children during delivery and, if necessary, to go to vet clinic

Whelping books

Vetwrap to wrap the tail of a long-haired bitch

Flashlight with new batteries

Clock or watch to time the birth

Camera, film, and extra battery

Something for you to do while waiting – cards, magazines, etc.

Ink pen (and an extra) and note pad – mark each pup's arrival time, sex, weight, color, and markings (either natural markings or id mark you apply), and if placenta was expelled

Make sure the phone cord reaches the whelping box or that the battery for the cordless phone is charged

Cot for you to sleep on

Predicting the delivery time
Average gestation is about 63 days from the date of ovulation, which may be different than the date(s) of breeding(s). Several changes that may be noticeable in the bitch the last week before delivery include a distended, 'dropped' abdomen, enlarged and softened vulva, enlarged nipples, and full mammary glands. Taking her temperature at least twice a day the last 10 days before the delivery date is also helpful. Some bitch's temperatures will drop below 99°F within 24 hours of delivery. This may not be seen in all bitches, but is another indicator. Loss of appetite and nervousness (pacing, panting) alternating with sleep also indicate the time is near.

Preparing the bitch
Clipping the long hair from the underside of the abdomen allows the puppies to find the nipples easier. A bitch may 'blow her coat' in preparation for delivery. Trimming the rear quarters helps keep the mess to a minimum. If she is not kept clean, she should receive a bath before delivery and then be kept in the house.

Remove the bitch's collar before whelping to eliminate a possible hazard to the puppies.

Once labor has begun, do not let her outside except on a leash and bring a towel along in case a puppy is born. Bring a flashlight along if it is nighttime. Check the spot after she urinates for signs of mucus, blood, or other discharge.

Stages of labor
Labor and delivery have three stages. In the first stage, the cervix is being dilated and softened. She may moan, whimper, and pant during labor. Abdominal contractions are not evident in this stage. She may be restless, secretive, and try to hide. This is why the whelping box is in a quiet area in the house. The lights can be dimmed if she is more comfortable. She may shred paper and blankets during this stage also. Stage one may take 12-24 hours. It ends when the first puppy passes into the pelvic canal.

 
 
whelpingpeted2 Stage two starts when she begins actively pushing the first puppy out. The first puppy tends to take the longest, as it needs to fully dilate the cervix. Normally, 1-4 strong contractions are necessary to deliver each puppy. She may be very vocal during delivery, and she may stand, lie, or sit with haunches to one side for delivery. She will be more relaxed if those present are relaxed. Some dogs do not want anyone around for the whelping and the owner needs to sit in the corner and watch, while other bitches may want the owner in the whelping box with them.
 
 
 
whelpingpeted3  The amniotic fluid (water bubble) is seen first. The puppy may come head first or rear paws first. Either way is normal. As soon as the puppy is born, the dam should remove the sac from its face. If the bitch does not do so within several seconds, the owner should remove it so the puppy can breathe.


 
 
 
whelpingpeted4 The bitch will start licking the puppy and will not be extremely gentle with the puppy. That is fine, since the puppy needs stimulation to start breathing on its own. He should be giving lusty cries and starting to movinge around. Within minutes he may be ready to nurse, although some puppies need a short rest to recover from the stress of delivery before they are ready to nurse. The bitch will crush and tear the umbilical cord about 1-3 inches from the puppy's body depending on size.
 
If she does not, clamp the cord between 2 hemostats and tear it or cut it. If the umbilical cord bleeds, tie it off with the suture. If you need to pick up the puppy, keep him in a head-down position to allow fluid to drain out of the lungs and nasal passages. Once the puppy is crying loudly and clearly, the lungs are clear.

The third stage of labor is the delivery of the placenta. Each puppy has a placenta and it is usually delivered with the puppy. Keep track of the placentas on the notepad, as she may have two puppies and then 2 placentas. The bitch will usually eat the placenta. After two or three, the owner can remove some of them to prevent her from eating them all. The placenta does offer nourishment to the bitch, but too many may cause diarrhea or vomiting.

She will repeat the second and third stages of labor until all the puppies are born. Some bitches will have 2-3 puppies in 20 minutes and then break for a couple of hours, while others take 2-3 hours per puppy. As long as she is comfortable and not contracting forcefully, monitor closely. If she is contracting forcefully and no puppy is born, call your veterinarian. If it seems too much time has passed or you are worried, call your veterinarian for advice. If x-rays have been done to count the number of fetuses, you will have a better idea when you are done. Do not count on complete accuracy in fetal numbers from the x-ray.

Allow the dam to eat and drink small amounts during labor and delivery if she wishes. She may prefer small amounts of cottage cheese or yogurt in addition to her regular food.

Allow the puppies to nurse between deliveries. After the first puppies have nursed, allow the newcomers a chance to nurse without having to fight off their older siblings. The puppies are only able to absorb the colostrum through their intestines for the first 24 hours of life. After that time, they are no longer able to get any protection from disease from the dam. The bitch should be licking their perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue this for 2-3 weeks.

Dystocia: Difficult labor and delivery
Difficulty during labor and delivery is called 'dystocia,' and there can be multiple causes.

Owners of breeds who are prone to dystocias (those with large heads and shoulders such as Bulldogs, Pugs, and Boston Terriers) should discuss the possibility of a cesarean section with their veterinarian several weeks prior to the due date. Some breeders of these breeds will automatically schedule a c-section.

Whelping records
It is important to keep accurate records during the delivery. A sample record is shown below (although records of weight gain should be kept longer than 3 days). Keeping such records will help you recognize problems early, and be a way to follow each puppy during their first weeks of life. As puppies are born, breeders use different methods to identify them and keep track of them. One way is to put a dab of blue (male) or (pink) nail polish on the hip or shoulder of the puppies.
Whelping Record For 'Sydney'  1/5/2000
Births
 		Time
 		Male/
Female
 		ID Marking
 		Weight
 		Placenta
 		Weight Day 1
 		Weight Day 2
 		Weight Day 3
#1
 12:10 P.M.
 Male
 Blue Right Hip
 16 oz.
yes
  *
  *
  *
#2
 12:25 P.M.
 Male
Blue Left Hip
 18 oz.
 yes 


#3
  2:50 P.M.
  Female
 Pink Right Hip
 16 oz.
 yes   


#4
  4:15 P.M.
  Female
 Pink Left Hip
19 oz.
yes


#5
 4:45 P.M.
 Male
 Blue Right Shoulder
20 oz.
 yes 


#6
 5:30 P.M.
 Male
 Blue Left Shoulder
 15 oz.
 yes


#7
 6:20 P.M.
 Female
 Pink Right Shoulder
 16 oz.
 yes 


#8
 7:35 P.M.
 Male
 No Mark
 15 oz.
yes





* Record the daily weight of each puppy here.

References and Further Reading
Cain, J; Lawler, D. Small Animal Reproduction and Pediatrics. Pro-Visions Pet Specialty Enterprises. St. Louis, MO; 1991.
Ettinger, SF. Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine, 3rd ed. W.B. Saunders Company. Philadelphia, PA; 1989.
Evans, JM; White, K. Book of the Bitch. Howell Book House. New York, NY; 1997.
Feldman, E; Nelson, R. Canine and Feline Endocrinology and Reproduction. W.B. Saunders Company. Philadelphia, PA; 1987.
Finder Harris, B. Breeding a Litter: The Complete Book of Prenatal and Postnatal Care. Howell Book House. New York, NY; 1993.
Holst, P. Canine Reproduction: A Breeder's Guide. Alpine Publications. Loveland, CO; 1985.
Lee, M. Whelping and Rearing of Puppies. T.F.H. Publications, Inc. Neptune City, NJ.
 

Copyright © 1997-2007, Foster & Smith, Inc. All Rights Reserved.   
C 2006 Drs. Foster and Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from Josie Pitterle Article Reprint Coordinator  Drs. Foster and Smith
PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com) On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

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THE PET HEALTH LIBRARY

By Wendy C. Brooks, DVM, DipABVP
Educational Director, VeterinaryPartner.com
http://www.veterinarypartner.com
    

Birthing Puppies

Prenatal Care 
Preparing for your dog's labor and puppy care can be both exciting and fun; still, awareness of potentialbirthingpuppies1 problems is of paramount importance. It is a good idea to keep track of your dog's breeding date so as to know when to expect what.

After about 35 days of pregnancy, the mother's caloric requirements will begin to increase. In general, she should require about twice as much food as usual whereas, when she begins nursing, she will need three times as much food. Do not supplement calcium as this can cause metabolic imbalances; also, excess vitamins may be harmful to the puppies. The best nutritional plan is to buy a dog food approved for growth and feed according to the package; such diets are balanced and require no supplementation. Exercise of the pregnant bitch need not be restricted until after the first 4 to 6 weeks of pregnancy.

Some time around the 45th day, your dog should be examined by a veterinarian. At this time, the skeletons of the unborn pups will have mineralized and are thus visible on a radiograph. Your dog's abdomen should be x-rayed so that you know how many pups to expect. Ultrasound may be used to confirm pregnancy much earlier (after 25 days, the embryonic heart may be seen beating) but it is more difficult to count the number of pups using this method.

A comfortable area should be set aside for whelping and raising the puppies. The bitch should feel at home here and should be able to come and go as she likes while the puppies must remain confined.

The gestation period of the dog is considered to be 63 days though this is not written in stone and a normal range might be 58 to 68 days.

Impending Labor
When your dog's due date is approaching, you should begin monitoring her rectal temperature. When her temperature drops below 100F (normal canine temperature is 101F-102F), labor may be expected within 24 hours.

The First Stage of Labor
During this stage, uterine contractions begin. The bitch will appear very restless and may pace, dig, shiver, pant, or even vomit. This is all normal and all an owner can do is see that the bitch has water available should she want it.

The Second and Third Stages of Labor
The second stage is the hard labor stage in which the puppy is expelled. The third stage refers to the expulsion of the placenta and afterbirth. Each pup may not be followed by afterbirth; the mother may pass two pups and then two placentas. This is normal.

Puppies are born covered in membranes that must be cleaned away or the pup will suffocate. The mother will bite and lick the membranes away. Allow her a minute or two after birth to do this; if she does not do it, then you must clean the pup for her. Simply remove the slippery covering and rub the puppy with a clean towel. The umbilical cord may be tied in a knot about one inch from the pup and cut with scissors on the far side of the knot.

Expect one pup every 45 to 60 minutes with 10 to 30 minutes of hard straining. It is normal for bitches to take a rest partway through delivery, and she may not strain at all for up to 4 hours between pups. If she is seen straining hard for over an hour, or if she takes longer than a 4-hour break, consult a veterinarian.

Expect some puppies (probably half of them) to be born tail first. This is not abnormal for dogs.  

Call Your Veterinarian If:
30 to 60 minutes of strong contractions occur with no puppy being produced.

Greater than four hours pass between pups and you know there are more inside.

She fails to go into labor within 24 hours of her temperature drop.

She is in obvious extreme pain.

Greater than 70 days of gestation have passed.

It is normal for the bitch to spike a fever in the 24 to 48 hours following birth. This fever should not be accompanied by clinical signs of illness.

Normal vaginal discharge after parturition should be odorless and may be green, dark red-brown or bloody and may persist in small amounts for up to 8 weeks.

Problems to Watch For

Metritis (Inflammation of the Uterus)
Signs of this condition are as follows:

fever

foul-smelling vaginal discharge

listlessness

loss of appetite

no interest in the puppies

decreased milk production

If these signs are noted, usually in the first day or two postpartum, a veterinarian should be consulted. Your dog may have retained a placenta or have suffered some trauma during delivery. Animals who have required assistance with delivery are often predisposed to metritis.

Eclampsia
This condition results when the bitch has trouble supporting the calcium demand of lactation. Calcium supplementation predisposes a bitch to this condition. Usually affected animals are small dogs. They demonstrate:

nervousness and restlessness

no interest in or even aggression towards the pups

stiff, painful gait

This progresses to:

muscle spasms

inability to stand

fever

seizures

This condition generally occurs in the first 3 weeks of lactation and a veterinarian should be consulted immediately.

Mastitis (Inflammation of the Breasts)
Normal nursing glands are soft and enlarged. Diseased glands are red, hard, and painful. In general, the bitch does not act sick; the disease is confined to the mammary tissue. The bitch may be sore and discourage the pups from nursing; however, it is important to keep the pups nursing the affected glands. This is not harmful to the puppies and helps flush out the infected material. Hot packing may be helpful.

Problems with the Puppies
Newborn puppies should spend their time feeding and sleeping; they are not very playful or active for the first week. Puppies that nurse poorly, cry constantly, or do not sleep with the rest of the litter are in trouble and should be examined by the veterinarian.  Ideally the puppies should be weighed shortly after birth and should be expected to gain 5% to 10% of their birth weight daily. (A small weight loss in the first day of life is normal but this should be less than 10% of their initial weight.) Puppies that do not gain weight properly are in trouble and should be checked by the veterinarian. It is helpful if puppies are weighed at least daily to be sure they are growing properly.  Very young puppies have clear or slightly yellow-tinged urine. Obviously yellow urine is a sign of dehydration. 

If you think their is a problem with the mother or any of the puppies, contact your veterinarian. Examination may be needed for the mother and entire litter, not just the individual who appears sick.

Most dogs are excellent mothers and problems are few. The basic rule is to seek veterinary care if she seems to feel sick or if she ceases to care for her young. Puppies nurse until they are about 6 weeks old and then may be adopted by new homes.
Date Published: 1/1/2001  Date Reviewed/Revised: 01/09/2006
Copyright 2006 - 2007 by the Veterinary Information Network, Inc. All rights reserved.
Copyright 1991 - 2007, Veterinary Information Network, Inc.
This work was originally published by Veterinary Information
Network, Inc. (VIN) and is republished with VIN's permission.

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