For Frontline
products without perscription go to :
www.vetuk.co.uk
Frontline and Wormers at
Discount prices
www.petfleas.co.uk
********************
Flea
Control Basics
Written by Rich Danger
If you own a
dog or a cat then the bad news is that sooner or later you will be forced
to confront the issue of flea control. The good news, however, is
that with just a bit of prevention you dramatically reduce the chance
that your pet (or home) will become infested. If you already have a flea
problem then this article will help you eliminate it and prevent future
infestations.
Flea prevention starts in your yard. Fleas hate well groomed,
sun drenched yards. Rake up any leaf litter or yard debris you might
have and either compost it far away from where your pet hangs out
or better yet haul it away. When you've cleaned up your yard as best
you can, visit your local farm & garden store and purchase some beneficial
nematodes. Tell the person at the store that you are trying to control
fleas and they'll make sure you get the right species. This is far safer
than using insecticides and their effectiveness will surprise you.
Inside your house, your best weapons against fleas are
your vacuum cleaner and borax. Use the borax as you would a powdered
carpet freshener except work it in with a broom and let it sit for
a few hours before you vacuum it up. Be sure to remove any other pets
from the area first (fish, birds, etc.) and be sure to take the vacuum
bag out to the trash right away. This treatment is extremely effective
and it should last for about a year. (Borax manufacturers do not advocate
this use for their product so proceed at your own risk.)
Finally, you must address the issue of the fleas on your
pet. It is important that your pet is clean and well groomed so if
necessary, take him to the groomer and get him cleaned up. Otherwise,
give him a bath (flea shampoo is optional) and once he is dry, apply a
topical spot treatment such as Frontline or Advantage. This will last
for one to three months and it will quickly kill any fleas (or ticks) that
are unlucky enough to end up on your pet. For best results buy this treatment
from your vet because it will be stronger than what you can buy at a pet
shop or discount store.
This three pronged attack has been proven to be extremely effective
at preventing and eliminating flea problems but you must act quickly
and decisively. If you skip treating your yard, home, or pet you may
be left with a flea problem that will never quite go away.
Rich Danger maintains Flea Wars as a free resource to
help you fight the flea wars and win.
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A Can of Worms at the Flea
Circus
"Shampoo
I found a nice turquoise one, with a lemon grass odour, containing
Piperonyl butoxide and Pyrethrum. The Compendium ("Compendium of Data
Sheets for Veterinary Products"; it lists the products available from
members of the National Office of Animal Health [NOAH} in the U.K.) doesn't
tell you what the chemicals actually are, so I went to another book, "C
is for Chemicals" (Green Print, London), and this is what I found:
Piperonyl butoxide is 'highly toxic if absorbed through
the skin, less so if swallowed. It has been shown to cause cancer in
animals, although the US Environmental Protection Agency has concluded
that it is not carcinogenic (will not cause cancer) to people."
Pyrethrum is only moderately toxic if swallowed or inhaled,
but it is an irritant and may cause allergic dermatitis or asthmatic
breathing in sensitive 'people'. Luckily, though, the same manufacturer
sells an ointment for eczema and hot spots.
Then, whilst doing the weekly shopping, I stopped at the pet section
and had a look at what Safeways had to offer. There were some jolly
little flea collars - one for dogs, one for cats. Both contain a chemical
called Carbaryl. So I made a note, and looked Carbaryl up when I got
home.
Apparently Carbaryl is an insecticide with several garden
uses, and it's good at killing fleas, too. Just the job, then?
The World Health Organisation (WHO) lists Carbaryl as 'moderately
hazardous': it is a mutagen and it is carcinogenic and teratogenic in
laboratory animals (this means it can cause mutations in cells; it can
induce cancer, and it can cause birth defects when absorbed in pregnancy).
Oh yes, and it is reported to be more toxic to dogs than to other animals.
Maybe those new-fangled little capsules might fit the bill? You
know the ones - they protect your dog from reinfestation for up to four
weeks. One of these, listed in the Compendium, contains Permethrin....so
I checked Permethrin out in the other book, and:
the WHO considers Permethrin to be 'unlikely to present a hazard
in normal use'. Phew. But.....'the US Food and Drug Administration lists
Permethrin as a possible carcinogen.'
To be safe, the manufacturers suggest (in the Compendium) that
your dog shouldn't be allowed to swim for 12 hours after treatment because
the product is 'extremely dangerous to fish'. People shouldn't handle the
treated area on the dog for three to six hours, and treated dogs shouldn't
be allowed to sleep with people, particularly children.
So we mustn't get it on our skin, or let it into waterways, or
let our children near it, but it's okay for your dog to have it inside
his body for 'up to four weeks'. Actually, it kills fleas for up to four
weeks - we don't know how long it remains in a dog's body.
Let's see.... what else is there? Oh, yes. Here's another one of
these capsule thingies. This one contains an organophosphorus compound.
According to "C for Chemicals", organophosphates are a class
of chemicals, 'some of which are considered to be the most toxic chemicals
ever manufacturered'.
But surely the manufacturers wouldn't use such dangerous chemicals
on our dogs? Surely they use the harmless organophosphates? What is an
organophosphate anyway? 'The high acute toxicity of organo- phosphates
stem from their action against a vital enzyme in the body that regulates
the functioning of the nervous system'. Oh.
Fleas
So what about flea sprays? Here's a nice environmentally friendly
one: it doesn't contain CFCs, so it won't damage the ozone layer. Good
selling point. What does it contain, then?
Dichlorvos. The WHO lists Dichlorvos as 'highly hazardous'.
It's poisonous if swallowed, absorbed through the skin, or inhaled. It
is a mutagen and possible carcinogen, and a potent anticholinesterase
agent (blocking the transmission of nerve messages).
Rest assured, though, because the manufacturers state that the
product is designed to have a high margin of safety. This is before
the bit about 'if signs of toxicity appear, administer the antidote
atrophine sulphate at 0.1-0.2mg/kg intravenously or intraperitoneally
and apply artificial respiration.' Artificial respiration? It's not the
way they manufacture them, you see, it's the way stupid dog owners misuse
them.
And my, aren't we stupid! I admit it, I have used some of these
products, or products like them, on my dogs. I'm stupid, and I'm angry.
I trusted these manufacturers with my dogs' lives.
Of course, there are other ways of dealing with fleas - and worms
at the same time. But, as scientists know, these products are totally
untested, and there's no proof that they work. No-one's experimented with
laboratory animals where these 'products' are concerned.
Take garlic as an example. I've been giving my dogs a clove
of raw crushed garlic with their meals each day for nearly two years.
We haven't had any flea infestations - but, of course, we don't have
the benefit of science to tell us we are doing the right thing. Besides
which, you can't patent garlic.
There are other natural products said to be capable of keeping
fleas and worms at bay: apple cider vinegar (from the health
shop), raw meaty bones (yes, yes, I know they are supposed to give
dogs worms - but you can't patent bones either; so they would say that,
wouldn't they?)
Those who promote the natural diet say that raw meaty bones help
keep the immune system healthy, and a dog with a healthy immune system
is no good to worms because, amongst other reasons, worms thrive on the
mucousy toxic stuff that dogs with a poor diet accumulate in their intestines
and guts.
Then there's homoeopathic remedies, and herbs that are said to
combat fleas and worms. Now, as my husband John, who is a practical sort
of person, said: "But they haven't been tested on laboratory animals,
either, so you don't know whether garlic or herbs, or homoeopathy, will
harm your dogs."
He's got a point there. All that homoeopaths and herbalists have
in their own empirical scientific wisdom, which is totally different
to conventional scientific wisdom, are the dogs, cats, horses, and people
who believe - from their own experience - that their remedies work.
But if a chemical kills fish, doesn't kill dogs, but mustn't be
allowed near people; or it's proven to cause cancer but they use it anyway,
what use is the laboratory data? And when you add that small dose of killing
chemical to all the other chemicals in the environment - the crop sprays,
garden weed killers, disinfectants, plastics, mould treatments, and more
- at what point is enough enough?
All these scientists and experts believe they are helping us to
do the best for our dogs. But I can't help thinking that they sell products
to make money. We want flea killers, they give us flea killers. How can
we be sure, though, that they aren't inadvertently killing our dogs too?
Surely, as consumers, we have the right to ask?
Should we leave all the decisions to the experts? I'll leave you
with this quote. It relates to human food, and we are only talking about
dogs - they matter less than humans, don't they?
"The dispassionate objectivity of scientists is a myth. No scientist
is simply involved in the single-minded pursuit of truth; he is also
engaged in the passionate pursuit of research grants and professional
success. Nutritionists may wish to attack malnutrition, but they also
wish to earn their living in ways they find congenial."
John Rivers,The Profession of Nutrition
Finally, if you wish to use products on your dog, be sure you know
what you are using, and what the risks are. We are morally bound to make
informed choices about the lives of our dogs - they don't have the choice,
they simply have solutions imposed upon them. Take care, for all life
is precious."
**************
Alternative Therapies
Against Fleas
As well as the suggestions made in the above article for preventing
flea infestation, I would suggest that diet is the basis of protection,
and possibly the most important method of getting our dogs to be unattractive
to any kind of parasite, not just fleas, is to give them a good mineral/trace
element supplement as part of their diet. It has been shown that animals
whose trace element balance, especially, is good do not suffer from
fly attack, worms, fleas, ticks or lice, nor are they likely to contract
any other kind of infections.
Unfortunately, a good range of minerals and trace elements is no
longer in our food (if it ever was; there being some of these substances
- selenium is a good example - which have always been lacking in some
areas) and it is necessary to supplement even when dogs are on good quality
diets. Vitamin B complex is also important.
The best way to deal with a flea problem (or any other parasite)
is a preventative one as described above, but what about those dogs which
already have a problem, possibly compounded by an allergic reaction to
flea bites?
The first step is to look at the diet as well as adding all the
suggested supplements, especially the mineral/trace element supplement
(such as Moor Life Bouquet for Pets or Moor Gold or Neways Mineral Solution,
or Trace AniMinerals), plus B complex vitamins. Apple cider vinegar, as
well as being added to drinking water, may be diluted and sponged on to
the coat and skin.. The Bach Flower Remedy Crab Apple may be added to the
drinking water and diluted (6 drops to a ½ pint water) and sprayed
over the coat. If there is a lot of itching and/or raw wounds, then adding
Rescue Remedy is a good idea. Neem products can be very helpful - for
lice and ticks as well as fleas.
It should always be remembered that fleas do not live only on the
dog; they live and breed in the home environment and are particularly
partial to carpets and soft furnishings, the cracks between wall and floor
and gaps between boards, anywhere where it is warm. It is therefore pointless
treating the dog alone; what needs to be done in a flea infestation is
to treat the whole home environment, including other animals such as cats.
Don't forget, too, that flea eggs are not likely to be affected by any
treatment, so the treatment used to get rid of the adult fleas should
be repeated 10-14 days later to catch the hatched out eggs before the new
fleas start laying more eggs.
To make an early diagnosis of a flea problem, use a flea comb on
each animal regularly. At the first signs of fleas, start a programme
of treatment. Vacuum the furniture, carpets and floors and discard the
vacuum bag afterwards - or buy a pet flea collar and put it in the vacuum
bag before vacuuming! Don't put the flea collar on the pet. Wash all
bedding thoroughly.
If there is a serious flea problem treat all the rooms/kennels
where the animals live/sleep with a mixture of 2 parts diatomaceous
earth (food grade), 1 part baking soda, 1 part cornstarch. This does
make a dusty atmosphere, so protect yourself with a mask, any machinery
with a cover, and keep the animals out of the rooms during the treatment.
Sprinkle the powder thickly into carpets and where the carpets meet the
wall, brushing it well in, also treat upholstered furniture, cracks in
flooring, round skirting boards, etc. The powder is going to be stirred
up each time you vacuum, so repeat the protection and keep the animals
away during cleaning.
Black walnut leaves are a good flea deterrent for the home, and
cedar wood works well, too. Neem leaf powder
Adding garlic oil to the rinsing water following a shampoo, or
putting a spot of garlic oil round the base of the tail and ears can
help with ridding the dog itself of fleas, as well as adding garlic to
the diet. Putting an amethyst in the drinking water is also of help. Obviously
care should be taken and with dogs that pick up stones it would be better
to avoid this form of therapy.
There are shampoos available that contain flea repelling herbs
and essential oils. Use these to bathe a dog that is severely infested
with fleas, but any animal that has a major problem with parasites has
a need for diet and supplements to boost its immune system and just dealing
with the surface problem is not enough.
Essential oils and herbs can also be used to apply to the dog in
order to prevent fleas. Recipes can be found in the book "Natural Insect
Repellants" by Janette Grainger & Connie Moore.
back to top
*************************
Are you worried
about the effects of chemicals on your dog? Why not make
your own safe, non toxic flea repellents?
CITRUS REPELLENT: Cut a lemon into quarters and place in
a pint jug. Cover the lemon with boiling water and let it steep
overnight.
Next day you have a flea repellent that you can use in a
spray bottle. Spray over your dog remembering especially behind
the ears and around the head generally (careful of eyes), around the
base of the tail (once again keep away from delicate bits) and under
your dog’s ‘armpits’.
Aromatherapy repellent: Using 10 ml. of sweet almond oil
as your base, add 10 drops of lavender and 5 drops of cedarwood.
Shake well and use 1 or 2 drops spread over the skin at least twice a week
to keep the fleas away.
A flea collar can be made by rubbing a few drops of one
of the following into an ordinary webbing or rope collar or even a doggy
bandanna: eucalyptus oil, Tea Tree Oil, citronella, lavender or geranium.
Don’t forget to do this weekly. We now stock a product that makes
this easy for you. Scratch is a combination of Neem & grapeseed
oil, Lemon, Grapefruit, Orange, Citronella, Eucalyptus, Cedarwood, Sage,
Lavender essential oils.
YOUR HOME: Fleas spend most of their time in your furnishings
and only hop onto your dog or you for their next meal. Make sure
you wash your dog’s bedding regularly because no flea ever survived a
hot wash cycle. If you add eucalyptus oil to the final rinse it will also
kill 99% of house dust mites according to research from the University
of Sydney, Australia.
You MUST vacuum your carpets on a daily basis if there are fleas
on your pets and therefore in your home. This really is a most important
line of defence as you will suck up fleas & hopefully their eggs before
they have a chance to hatch. Empty the vacuum after use! In
addition after a thorough vacuum you can sprinkle a fine layer of ordinary
table salt over your upholstery and carpets and leave overnight before vacuuming
again. Fleas who get a speck of salt on them will try to remove it
and the salt will basically desiccate them!
BATHING: A badly infested dog really needs to be bathed
so use your favourite dog shampoo. Rinse the dog off very thoroughly
and in the final rinse add a couple of drops of Tea Tree Oil or Lavender
oil. An alternative is to make your own herbal flea dip which will also
work on ticks. Steep two cups of fresh rosemary in two pints of
boiling water for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid, discard the leaves and
make it up to one gallon ( 8 pints) with warm water. Pour this mixture
over the dog until it’s saturated. Do not rinse off and allow the dog to
dry naturally so this is a remedy to use on hot summer days.
INTERNAL FLEA REPELLENTS: Garlic may not be your favourite
cologne and it’s not the flea’s favourite smell either. When your
dog eats garlic, the smell is excreted through the dog’s skin making your
dog less likely to be the flea’s next meal. In case you think you
might need to give your dog a breath freshener along with the garlic, my
own dogs eat garlic every day and I don’t find their breath smells of
garlic.
Brewer’s yeast tablets will also help to make your dog less
attractive to fleas because once again the smell is excreted through
the skin.
Adding a dessertspoon of apple cider vinegar to the water
bowl will make the skin more acidic and unpleasant to fleas and ticks.
If your dogs don’t fancy apple cider vinegar in the water bowl, dilute
it 50/50 with water and use in a spray bottle instead of the citrus repellent.
Try Terminator - a homoeopathic product made from fleas
which should make your pet less attractive to other fleas.
©
2004 Frances Gavin
reprinted
with kind permission from Frances Gavin
Canine Natural Cures Whistlers Cottage The RidgeWoldingham
CR3 7AN
Tel: 0845 127 9903
********************
blood of your pet. In very young animals the
amount of blood fleas can take from them can cause anaemia.
In older animals they cause severe irritation as well as being the
intermediate host of a type of tapeworm. What is also significant
is that fleas will also bite (but not live on) humans, particularly
women and children.
House dust mites can be a big problem in some cases.
House dust mites are a fact of life. They feed on house dust
which is actually bits of old skin naturally shed from human and pet
bodies. Everyone has house dust mites in their homes - there's
no getting away from them!