soyouwant

SO YOU WANT TO BUY A GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG?

A BUYERS GUIDE

By Dr.M.B.Willis.B.Sc.PhD. Breed Geneticist.

Introduction:
Anyone wanting to get into GSD's, whether this is with a view to becoming a breeder or with a view to having a working dog or merely as a pet owner, has to start somewhere and that means buying a dog. Most people get their first dog as a puppy and at the time they may know very little of what to look for or where to go to. Its a lucky first time buyer who goes to the right place and buys the right dog but the more one sets out to 'do it right' the greater the chances of success. Hopefully this article will serve as a guide to purchase. It is not intended to show you what structural features to look for in selecting a puppy, which warrants an article in its own right, but rather it concentrates on the features you ought to be getting for your money.

Research.
Although there is considerable responsibilities in moral and legal terms upon the seller there is also some obligation on behalf of the buyer to investigate first. Is a GSD what you really want? That cuddly 7-8Kg puppy will grow up to be about 65cms high and weigh about 36Kg. It will be very active, hopefully intelligent, possibly vocal and live around 10 years. It will put some restrictions upon your lifestyle that, as a dog free person you currently do not have. Are you ready for all these things? Are you prepared to invest time and effort in making your dog a 'good citizen'? and have you the time and energy to exercise the animal? Would you be better with a Lhasso Apso? Think about it carefully and don't buy a German Shepherd Dog because you feel it will enhance any macho image you may think you possess. Think about it long and hard, read up about the breed - there are plenty of basic books on this breed - and don't be in a hurry to buy. Within reason, the longer you study the issue before you start to look for an actual dog, then the better the chance you should have to get it right.

Advertising.
Most local newspapers have adverts for GSD's or Alsatians as they are often wrongly called and wrongly spelled. They will sound cheap, but beware......... cheap is often cheap and nasty. If someone is selling a GSD puppy at £70 they CAN NOT be good. A reputable breeder could not afford to sell puppies at that price. The local newspaper, the free paper and the Exchange and Mart could include advertisements from highly reputable breeders but these are not the usual locations in which reputable breeders advertise. This is where research comes in. If you have done your homework you may have found the local GSD Club and perhaps be told what to look for and what to pay. Or you may have heard about the GSD Breed Councils 'Breeder Charter' and a list of breeders who have signed this. Maybe you have got into the 'National Magazine', 'Our Dogs' or 'Dogs World'. Even in these laudable publications not everything may be pukka, but you are in with a better chance. If you find an advert that seems interesting, ring up and find out about what is on offer and if you think it sounds good then make an appointment to view.

Going to look.
If you are a complete beginner, then try and take someone with you who has a bit of an idea about dogs in general and GSD's in particular. Don't go in your best suit if you are going to handle dogs, but don't go looking like a scruff either. A breeder is going to have first impressions and if you look like a pauper you may be considered unsuitable. If you are married, take your spouse; a reputable breeder will want to know if someone is home all day and if both parties are equally keen. We would not sell a man a dog if his wife didn't really want one because if she is at home all day she is the one who is going to have to deal with the dog. We want our dogs to go to a home they will be happy in and live their life out........ Marital strife is the quickest way to ensure the dog comes back......... maybe half ruined!

Be prepared to be quizzed. A breeder should want to know the sort of life the dog might lead and what your plans and facilities are for the dog. If the breeder seems keener on getting your deposit and getting you out, then be cautious. Maybe the breeder is just in it for the money and the lack of interest expressed will be even more lacking if something goes wrong and later you need help. Don't ever overstay your welcome. Breeders are busy people and if they have spent some time with you remember they will have dogs to attend to when you have gone. You should not be going to see the puppies until they are at least 4 weeks old, preferably 6, and a good breeder would probably want to see you once and then have you return at around 8 weeks to pick the puppy. Before you see the puppies have a look at how they are reared, and ask to see the mother. If the mother is not available, be very cautious. Why can she not be seen? Is she a craven coward or are the puppies just bought in for resale? If the mother is not to be seen then I would not buy, and if she is of unsuitable character, then I would make my excuses and leave. Seeing the father may not be possible if it is someone else's dog, but you should be able to see pictures and find out something about him. When you see the puppies, they should be clean and in clean surroundings. They should not smell of urine or excreta. They ought to come up to you eagerly as you go down on your haunches. At this age fear should not be visible, and if they huddle away at the back of their box/crate/kennel then do not buy. When you pick one it should be happy and friendly and lick your face, not be as quiet as a mouse and looking anxious. You should be given the opportunity to see the whole litter, but if you know what sex you want then the members of the other sex and any to be retained by the breeder should be taken away so you know you are looking at potential puppies of the sex you want and not being confused by pups you can not have.

Prices.
Prices vary by location, being dearer in the South than in the North. Prices also depend upon the quality of the stud/ bitch used, the reputation of the breeder and the quality of the individual puppy. Some breeders price each pup separately, and others charge the same price for everything. Generally one could expect to pay less for a long coat but not always so. However, as a general rule a minimum price of about £250-£350 is about the least one is going to pay for a decent pup, but the upper limit may vary enormously. Be cautious about astronomical prices on an 8-week-old puppy. Some breeders ask for a deposit, which would not be refundable if you cancelled. Others may not, but if you are going to cancel, have the grace to tell the breeder. Most breeders expect to be paid in cash, not because they are going to con the tax man, but because if the buyer is not genuine, (heaven forbid) at least one is not left with a bouncing cheque. So on the day you go to buy take cash.

What do I get for my money?
If you are buying an 8-week-old puppy then there are certain things that you ought to expect as routine or that you ought to insist upon. You are the buyer and to some degree, it is a buyers market. If the breeder does not produce the kind of sale and after sales service that you want, then might you not be better going elsewhere?

Kennel Club registrations.
Whatever we think about the KC it is still the 'ruling body' and one is entitled to have registration papers for a pedigree puppy, even a long coat or non standard colour. Insist upon having those at the time of purchase. Some breeders who tattoo may delay registration in order to have the tattoo on the registration form in that event, the registration paper will not be available at 8 weeks but in that case, you should have a written agreement that the puppy has registration papers to come. You would be surprised at how many people wait months or even years, for registration papers and it is not the KC's fault.

Vaccinations.
Although not all breeders do it, you should expect to see the puppy’s vaccinated at about 6 weeks against distemper, parvovirus etc, and would expect that as part of the price. You should expect to be given the veterinary vaccination card at the time of purchase so that you could take this to your vet when the next jab is due.

Tattoo.
We would expect any self respecting GSD owner to tattoo owner to tattoo all litters and thus you should expect to receive tattoo forms at purchase. Although tattooing is not obligatory and many excellent litters may not be tattooed, I am afraid we would expect it as routine in this breed. Ask for it.

Pedigree papers.
Most breeders write out their own pedigrees and you should get a 4, better still 5 generation pedigree. This should be neat and accurate and should include not only titles such as Ch. but also any working qualifications. (CD, PD, Sch.H 111, FH etc) There is not always much room on the 4th and 5th generation, but certainly they should be included on the first 3. You should also expect the hip scores / "a" stamp/ "A" Stamp to be included.

Hip Records.
If you are buying a GSD pup then you must insist upon both parents, at the very least, being hip scored. You should expect to have the hip scores put on the pedigrees and to be shown the hip sheet of both parents. Scores should be listed right hip/ left hip, not simply as a total. Thus 4/5 not merely 9 . A 4/5 is not quite the same as 0/9. Note that registration certificate from the KC now include all known BVA/KC hip scores. Some dogs may be German imports and have German 'a stamps'. And in that event you should ask to see the dogs pedigree and be shown the 'a stamp' mark and the category of 'a stamp'.

These are normal, fast normal, and noch zujelassen and they vary in quality. We personally, would prefer to see BVA scores rather than German Grades, but we certainly would not expect to buy on hip certification on both parents. Some breeders give you excuses as to why their dog is not scored, or they may allow you to see the hip X ray even though your ability to 'read' radiographs is nil. All of these are merely excuses. There is no justification what so ever not to score/ grade breeding stock and if you are persuaded to buy without such records and the thing goes wrong, then your statutory rights may be jeopardised. If parents are not hip scored then you are foolish to buy the pups.

Elbow details.
Elbow problems ( OCD, UAP and to a lesser extent FPC) are known to this breed. Already the GSDCA is running an elbow scheme and in this country the BMD breed (which admittedly has poorer elbows than the GSD) is being elbow scored by Dr.S Guthrie at London University. Scoring is 0/1/2 or3 on each elbow with the higher number being the worst. In our BMD we only have 0/0 and 0/1 stack, but we would still use 1/1 but would not use 3 on either elbow and would be cautious with 2's. However, at present in British GSD's elbow grades would be an additional perk you might expect to see.

Haemophilia.
All breeding males should be haemophilia tested and I would advise you mot to buy pups sired by dogs, which have not received Breed Council Certificates on this count. It is cheap to do and once done, is for life, so there is no excuse for not having one done. Again, don’t listen to any excuses.

Breed Survey.
You should seek to have puppies from Breed Surveyed Class 1 or 2 parents. Although it is not the norm it will only become so if buyers insist upon it. In a breed where everything German is lauded, I find it astonishing and appalling that so many breeders, who seem to worship upon the water upon which the SV walks, do not insist upon surveying their stock. If they lived in Germany, they would have no choice. So, if you are buying puppies, especially if you are buying for exhibition or breeding then ask for survey papers. Insurance. Many breeders will insure a pup for about 6 weeks post purchase. This is for the price of the dog and usually paid by the breeder who gets a discount anyway. If the buyer wants to insure thereafter, it is up to them, but it means they are covered over the first high risks of life.

Endorsements.
The KC allows breeders to registration papers. They can only be done by the breeder at the time of ownership and once lifted, cannot be reapplied. The essence of the endorsements are: 'Name not changeable'. 'Progeny not for registration'. 'Export certificate can not be issued'. 'Animal not for exhibition'. May breeders will increasingly use one or all of these endorsements. We would expect to put all of these but the last for a GSD pup, and as a puppy buyer you must expect to see some of these. 'Name not changeable' does not mean you cannot call your puppy any name you like, but merely you can’t add your affix to the dogs registered name. It is therefore of minimal importance to the pet owner. The 'export certification' does not prevent you from taking your dog abroad, but stops you form doing so and registering it elsewhere (other than probably Japan). 'Progeny not for registration' is an embargo on breeding, since it means that if you do breed a litter while this in force, the KC will not register the progeny. 'Not for exhibition' is not what one would expect to see except in a dog of non-standard colour or was sold with an obvious flaw that made exhibition futile. And in that case the price should reflect this. If you do have endorsements on the pedigree form these must be drawn to your attention before you buy, (preferably in writing.) You must also know (ideally in writing) under what circumstances they would be lifted. For example, we use the first 3, but would not lift the fourth only if the owner wishes to emigrate and take the dog with them. And we would lift the progeny barrier only if the GSD is graded Class 1 or 2 on Breed Survey, which would mean that the hips had been done and the dog to be of satisfactory quality. If it can not make class 1 or 2, then it isn't worth breeding from anyway.

Diet sheets and general information.
You should expect to get a detailed diet sheet showing exactly what you have to feed the dog on and the general care involved. We do this, and also give every buyer a copy of my ring press book on GSD's. In the case of BMD owners, we enrol them into the Northern Bernese Club for the first year, since it is a progressively ethical club. We also give phone/ fax numbers and insist that if there are any problems at whatever time of day or night, the buyers are able to contact us. After sales service is crucial, and breeders who do not provide it are to be avoided.

Contracts.
I get involved in a lot of Litigation cases as an exert witness and often they arise because, at the time of purchase everything was verbal and nothing was written. When things go wrong, buyer claim they bought the dog as a breeding show dog and breeders say it was sold as a pet. But it is one mans word against another. If you are buying a GSD, you ought to insist upon having a written agreement, which states what the dog is sold as and what endorsements exist, and under what circumstances they would be lifted if at all. A breeder might insist you hip score your puppy at between 12 and 16 months of age     and if you sign to do that, you will have to do it, but you will also know you have a breeder who is thinking about what he/she does. The agreement might also say what happens if you let the puppy go. Many caring and reputable breeders expect to do their own rescue and would expect the dog you cant or don’t want to keep to go to them.

Conclusion.
There is a need for a buyer to shop around and find the best deal he/she can get for the sort of puppy they want. I am not talking about haggling, because most breeders, quite rightly, will not argue about prices, but rather what you get for your money. The things I have described above, seem to me to be legitimate requirements for a puppy buyer and in the end, much will depend upon what the breeder offers you, and what sort of rapport you find the breeder has with his/ her dogs and the one they are selling you. If the impression you get is that the breeder cant wait to get your money and 'be rid of the pup' then is that the place you want to buy from? Is it likely that this type of breeder will give you support if things go wrong, or do you expect that the answer to any problem you may encounter is likely to be 'you bought the pup, so it is you to you to...

Solve the problem?
If you receive the impression that the breeder is not too caring, then stay clear and go to one who obviously does care. What you must not expect is a world-beater for £250. You might, but if you do, you are fortunate in the extreme. If you are buying an 8-week-old pup then you must not expect it to be a future champion. And if you bought it as show/ breeding animal as opposed to a pet, you must not be surprised if things do not go exactly to plan. If you really want a show/ breeding animal, then you ought really to be looking at older stock and higher prices because even in the best kennels and the best bloodlines one can not ensure perfection at 8 weeks will remain perfection at 12 months or more. Some risks have to be the buyers, but the sort of risks that stem from going to the wrong place to buy and buying without any guarantees of anything........... even that the dog is registered, are really not risks you should be taking.

reprinted with kind permission from Dr Malcolm B Willis

www.gsdbreedcouncil.co.uk