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Coming back when called

www.padsonline.org

Coming back to you when he is called is the most important lesson you will ever teach your dog, but it can also be one of the most difficult. This article helps you to teach your dog to return to you whenever you want him, without the use of force or punishment.

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If running away is the only problem you have with your dog, the help and advice here may be all you need. If your dog has a whole series of behaviour problems, you should ask for personal advice from someone who will look at them all rather than dealing with them one at a time. Ask our Canine Advice Life Line service, or your vet, a training club or a professional dog trainer.

All dogs are "he" on this factsheet, but - of course - the same rules apply to bitches.

WHY DO DOGS RUN AWAY?
If you look at this problem from the dogs' point of view running away is very rewarding - games with other dogs, a nice game of chase with you and lots of exercise! Coming back to you is just the opposite as he is instantly in trouble.

Even when he hasn't run away, you are probably like many other dog owners - you let him 'do his own thing' while he is off lead, and only call him back to you when you want to avoid something, or when it's time to put the lead on and go home. This doesn't encourage him to want to come back to you either, since it means fun time is over.

So what's the answer?

Make coming to you more rewarding than running off.
Sounds simple, doesn't it?

HOW SHOULD YOU CALL YOUR DOG?
By "recall" or "recall command" we mean a word or a whistle, whichever you prefer to use. Don't just use his name as this gets his attention but doesn't tell him what to do.

Try to make your command sound the same every time, as many dogs listen to your tone rather than the word you use. (If you don't believe this, say any old word - like "box" - to your dog next time you want him to sit. If you say it in the same way you usually say "sit", most dogs will sit.) A desperate scream of "oh no, you bad dog, get back here" is not the same command as the calm and encouraging "Ben, come" you use at the training club. It is also important that all members of the family call your dog in the same way, so hold a family meeting and make sure you do.

STAGE ONE - THE BASICS OF TEACHING YOUR DOG TO COME
Your dog will not come when he is out, if he doesn't come at home. Start there, where you have no traffic or other dogs to worry about if he ignores you.

Walk him only on the lead for a while. If he pulls, a head collar or anti-pull harness will give you more control. (Ask your pet shop.)

Put some hard titbits in a small plastic box or bottle, so you can rattle them. Keep them in your pocket around the house, and three or four (random) times a day, rattle the pot. Call the dog to you at the same time, and give him lots of praise and a titbit when he arrives. Get everyone in the family to do the same. (The dog may look at you as if you're mad at first, especially if you wake him up, but stick to it! That rattling sound will soon mean food.)

Do this when you are in the same room at first, then try from another room so he has to come and find you. Make sure it's a fun game with lots of love and praise when he does.

Don't give him any food at any time (titbits or meals) unless he has responded to a recall command first. Always recall him to have his lead put on, to be groomed (assuming he enjoys it), patted or anything else nice. Give lots of praise and a titbit when he comes. (All this starts him thinking that coming when called is a good thing.)

Always take him out when he's hungry, preferably just before a meal, as this makes the titbits more tempting. Take plenty of titbits with you in your usual pot. (Cut his meals down to allow for this - we don't want the blame if he gets overweight! It doesn't matter if he gets, say, a third of his daily food like this at first; you can taper it off later.)

Play the calling game when you're out - even though he's on a lead. Call him every few hundred yards, praise him, feed him, play with him - make a big game of it. Do this on the street as well as where you normally let him off lead. (This should make him start keeping one eye on you all the time.)

MAKING HIM WORK HARDER
As he learns the game and responds every time, feed him only for progressively quicker responses. If you have to leap up and down or call several times, praise him quietly for coming but that's all. He should soon respond very quickly.

Don't go to the next stage until he comes INSTANTLY, EVERY TIME at home or out on a lead.

STAGE TWO - TEACHING YOUR DOG TO COME BACK WHEN HE IS OFF THE LEAD
At first only let him off the lead when you can't see any other dogs, joggers or whatever tempts him to run away.

Stick to the same rules - call him back for a game and a titbit every few hundred yards, reward quick responses. If you normally only call him when another dog comes along, he may look for one when you first call, but when he sees nothing is there he will come.

Sometimes when you call him, put him on the lead for a few yards, sit him, reward him and let him off again. (You are showing him that even coming back to put his lead on is not the end of his fun.)

If another dog does come along, call him in exactly the same way you normally do, reward him, put him on the lead, and try to keep his attention by offering titbits or talking to him. Make silly noises if you have to, but keep his attention on you.

If he pulls towards the other dog tell him to sit as it goes past. Keep his eyes on you (and a titbit) until it's gone, give him the food and lots of praise, then let him off for another run. Do this every time, if only for a minute, even if you were just about to go home when the other dog arrived.

If he does run away, DON'T TELL HIM OFF.

You have put in a lot of work to make coming back to you a positive experience and you don't want to waste it. Do anything to get his attention - call him and rattle your food, bounce a ball, offer to throw a stick, run the other way, lay on the floor and hide your face, make funny noises (buzzing often does the trick). Don't worry about what other people think - they may have been there!

Try not to chase your dog. If circumstances like a busy road mean you have to rugby tackle him to the ground, put him on the lead without a word. (Don't praise or scold him.)

If he does actually come, but at the very last minute, praise him gently.

If he comes back voluntarily, go mad with enthusiastic praise.

If he runs away more than once or starts to slip in his responses go back a stage IMMEDIATELY. Don't let him get in the habit of making mistakes.

STAGE THREE - MAKING SURE YOUR DOG ALWAYS COMES BACK
Once your dog is responding to you every time you call, gradually cut back on the titbits, though you should always give them occasionally to keep him keen. It works like a slot machine - he comes back just in case this time pays!

If his recall starts to slow, increase the frequency of titbits every time for a while. You should, of course, ALWAYS praise your dog with kind words and a pat for coming back; NEVER take his obedience for granted.

Every time you go for an "off lead" walk, remember to put him on the lead for a few paces, then let him off again. You can reduce it to once per walk once he is under control, but don't do it at the same place every time.

PROBLEMS
My dog doesn't like titbits
If the attraction of titbits doesn't last, or your dog isn't motivated at all by food, experiment to see what reward he does like. A squeaky toy or bouncy ball often gets his attention and a quick game with it can become part of your praise. Vary the reward if nothing works consistently, so it's always worth him coming to check.

This method seems like very hard work
It can be. In addition, although some dogs respond quickly, others take longer. However, it is hardest work at the beginning and it generally works very well. In the long term, it is easier than living with a dog which runs away.

I've given this a fair trial but it doesn't seem to help
No dog training method works 100% with every dog, and there are always other ways to tackle any problem. Some dogs that will not return to you will go down on command so you can collect them, others are helped by using a running line or two leads (you unclip one, he thinks he's free, you still have a line to encourage him back to you). Any of our advisors will be able to discuss these and other alternatives with you, and help you put them into practice. Please don't hesitate to get in touch.

reprinted with kind permission from Debbie Waller Hon Chairman/Webmaster
People And Dogs Society http://www.padsonline.org
reg charity no 1005973. 45B Ashgap Lane, Normanton, WF6 2DT, UK